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Fel pump shaft not turning?

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Gord


Posts: 9



Fel pump shaft not turning?  
  Started at Thu Jan 24 20:33:07 2013
Zetor 6045 fel not working. Upon further inspection the pump shaft doesn't turnconfused I assume it should whenever the engine is operating. If something is broken how the heck do I get at it? It is -22 C here today, not sure if that would make a difference. Would anything else cause the shaft to not turn?

 
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Skin7245


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Re: Fel pump shaft not turning?  
  Reply #1 Posted at Thu Jan 24 22:13:42 2013
Sounds like it may have stripped the spline.

 
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Gord


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Re: Fel pump shaft not turning?  
  Reply #2 Posted at Thu Jan 24 23:44:05 2013
Tks, do you have any idea how big a job it is to check the spline, i.e. what has to be removed to get at it

 
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Skin7245


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Re: Fel pump shaft not turning?  
  Reply #3 Posted at Fri Jan 25 02:38:25 2013
I assume you have a pump mounted in the front that is driven by the front crank pulley? If so, you'd find it easiest to remove the radiator for easier access, then unbolt the pump and move it out of the way, you should then see the problem easily.
If it is set up with the front pump, this isn't standard, so you may have trouble sourcing parts.

 
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Gord


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Re: Fel pump shaft not turning?  
  Reply #4 Posted at Fri Jan 25 07:05:39 2013
Any idea what might cause this? Pump seized? Too hard to turn pump in the frigid temperature? I am just wondering if the stripped spline shat is my problem or a symptom of another problem?

Thanks for the help.

 
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Gord


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Re: Fel pump shaft not turning?  
  Reply #5 Posted at Fri Jan 25 07:07:28 2013
Yes. The pump is in the front and the shaft is turned by the front crank pulley.

 
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Skin7245


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Re: Fel pump shaft not turning?  
  Reply #6 Posted at Mon Jan 28 06:30:32 2013
Splines aren't designed to run dry, especially where there may be a chance of misalignment. You could try drilling and tapping a grease nipple in there somewhere, so the spline was lubricated.

 
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Gord


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Re: Fel pump shaft not turning?  
  Reply #7 Posted at Fri Feb 8 14:04:04 2013
Finally found the problem, the crankcase nut that holds on the drive pulley was stripped. The hydraulic pump was front mounted the crank nut was drilled out and a sprocket was welded to it and hooked up to the pump with sprockets and roller chains. Had the nut re tapped but wasn't able to get it back on the crank. The crank must also be stripped, wasn't able to get a die (Nut is 32 mm with a 1.5 pitch) to repair the crank. Have a temp fix for the crank (clamp on the end, has anybody got a better idea), tractor running. Can I use the rear hydraulics to run the front loader. It is a 6045. Tks

 
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Hidden Valley Engineering

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Steve

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Re: Fel pump shaft not turning?  
  Reply #8 Posted at Fri Feb 8 20:17:24 2013
Bugger!
if the thread on the crank is not too badly damaged you may be able to clean it up enough to get it started with a ground down hacksaw blade (remove the pulley for better access, it should just slide off as it is on a key and not on a taper)
grind the teeth down (to a point) on the hacksaw blade to match the thread pitch of the thread, now lightly saw down into the valley of the thread working slowly around the crank until at least 4 threads on the end are clean enough to start the nut.

i am assuming you purchased a new nut? as if the old one was stripped you cannot just re-thread it! or it will be oversize and it will not take any strain before stripping again.

DO NOT use the tractor without the nut fixed and done up tight! (i think about 100ftlb) or the pulley will come loose and flog out the keyway in the pulley and the crank, and then you will need a new crank sad

Probably best not to drive the hydraulic pump of the nut!!!

Drill and tap some M8 or M10 (6 is ideal) holes in the pulley and make a suitable drive flange that you can bolt to the front pulley (using Grade 8.8 or better bolts) that will take the load of driving the pump .......... ie weld a coupling sprocket to big (say ~60mm Dia) washer, weld on 6 spider legs from 25x5mm steel strapping that bolt to the front of the pulley. (you may need some pipe spacers to get a good fit)
hopefully you can make it so the total length of the coupling still aligns with the pump happy (ie if the back of driving flange is touching the front pulley nut and the coupling sprocket has 5mm machined off the back it should all fit)

Tip..... make the flange and bolt to the pulley first then find the true center with the engine running (or cranking) so when you weld on the coupling sprocket it will be centered happy
(do not weld while bolted to the crank, index one spider leg and it's bolt hole on the pulley so you always bolt it back in the same position)


Whatever the question was, the answer is MORE POWER wink


1977 6745 soon to have a FEL fitted
 
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Skin7245


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Re: Re: Fel pump shaft not turning?  
  Reply #9 Posted at Tue Feb 12 03:24:44 2013

On Fri Feb 8 20:17:24 2013, Hidden Valley Engineering wrote: (read quoted post)
Bugger!
if the thread on the crank is not too badly damaged you may be able to clean it up enough to get it started with a ground down hacksaw blade (remove the pulley for better access, it should just slide off as it is on a key and not on a taper)
grind the teeth down (to a point) on the hacksaw blade to match the thread pitch of the thread, now lightly saw down into the valley of the thread working slowly around the crank until at least 4 threads on the end are clean enough to start the nut.

i am assuming you purchased a new nut? as if the old one was stripped you cannot just re-thread it! or it will be oversize and it will not take any strain before stripping again.

DO NOT use the tractor without the nut fixed and done up tight! (i think about 100ftlb) or the pulley will come loose and flog out the keyway in the pulley and the crank, and then you will need a new crank sad

Probably best not to drive the hydraulic pump of the nut!!!

Drill and tap some M8 or M10 (6 is ideal) holes in the pulley and make a suitable drive flange that you can bolt to the front pulley (using Grade 8.8 or better bolts) that will take the load of driving the pump .......... ie weld a coupling sprocket to big (say ~60mm Dia) washer, weld on 6 spider legs from 25x5mm steel strapping that bolt to the front of the pulley. (you may need some pipe spacers to get a good fit)
hopefully you can make it so the total length of the coupling still aligns with the pump happy (ie if the back of driving flange is touching the front pulley nut and the coupling sprocket has 5mm machined off the back it should all fit)

Tip..... make the flange and bolt to the pulley first then find the true center with the engine running (or cranking) so when you weld on the coupling sprocket it will be centered happy
(do not weld while bolted to the crank, index one spider leg and it's bolt hole on the pulley so you always bolt it back in the same position)


Better still. see if you can get a hold of a pully off a 2 series tractor (e.g. 6245 etc), as they aready have the threaded holes in it, with provision for dowels also. These holes are there to drive a front PTO, so the pully is plenty strong enough.

 
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Gord


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Re: Fel pump shaft not turning?  
  Reply #10 Posted at Thu Feb 28 18:29:03 2013
Tks for the detailed info, have the fel running of the rear hydraulics for now. Ordered a new nut $75 Cdn. Looking for a pulley of a 2 series as well.

 
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