hello zetor 1988 7211 dooralong australia

Hi I have owned my tractor for 10 yrs and it has given me very few problems.
however this afternoon the clutch stopped working.There is pressure there but depressing the clutch does not allow me to change gears . If i am in gear then depressing the clutch does not stop the tractor from moving.
Help
jack

Hello,

If the clutch slave cylinder at the bottom is OK (tight), then it can almost only be the clutch master cylinder at the top behind the clutch pedal. Maybe this is leaking (DOT3 brake fluid)?

You need to see if you have a leak first, if the vessel has no fluid, top it up and try pump the pedal a few times and see if it give any pedal. If your vessel is empting you'd got a leak. If the fluid is still good, you have more of an operation ahead.

Hi thanks for the responses .The brake fluid level has not moved.

jack schlachter said:

.The brake fluid level has not moved.

Click to expand...

If your not leaking any fluid, looking like your tractor needs an operation so. The clutch plate needs replacing, if it grinds getting a gear, or won't stop when you press the pedal.

Sorry, but you can't say/know that.

If the brake fluid doesn't decrease and the clutch doesn't disengage, there can be several reasons for this:

• one of the three or more clutch fingers is broken or misaligned (the pressure plate no longer moves far enough, the clutch disc doesn't have enough space when the clutch is disengaged and continues to rotate (without traction))
• teeth on the gearbox input shaft and/or the clutch disc driver are worn and/or rusted and/or very dirty (the pressure plate no longer moves far enough, the clutch disc doesn't have enough space when the clutch is disengaged and continues to rotate (without traction))
• pilot bearing defective - this can lead to a drag effect and the gearbox input shaft can also rotate
• gearbox brake incorrectly adjusted or worn

Before the clutch disc driver wears out, the clutch lining will have long since worn out, which would then lead to a slipping clutch.

The 7211 could also have a converter, which could also be the cause of the problem described.

Joachim said:

Sorry, but you can't say/know that.

Click to expand...

I said, it needs an operation, and all the things you mentioned, would require an operation. If it's not leaking brake fluid, it's not something you can fix without needing to spilt. I can't answer what the problem is any better without sitting on the tractor.

Thanks everyone.
Bottom line is the tractor needs to be split.
Big job.looking at the cost of 70 hp tractors I reckon it will be worth doing.reckon whole job with new clutch is going to cost about US 2000.
Will let you know what the problem was

Its not a big job - its a job you can do by self its not realy complicated and works without special tools.

Do you have a pallet truck or an engine mounting crane (one of those Chinese things will do)?
You have a right and a left hand?
You can spend one or max two days for repair? (I do this job often for others, I need around 6-7 hours for but other guys are faster as Iam the old man. )

You can do it by self.

Make photos from working steps so we can help you or give hints and save a lot of money.

Two examples...





Of course, the cabin does not have to be dismantled I had to do that here because of other, more extensive repairs - so don't worry.

Hi Joachim
Those photos make me nervous.Local tractor mechanic says it is 7 hours to take apart and 7 to put back.Also says the flywheel needs to be machined.Just payed for the new clutch Nearly US$2000.So my cost estimate is way to low.

jack schlachter said:

Hi Joachim
Those photos make me nervous.Local tractor mechanic says it is 7 hours to take apart and 7 to put back.Also says the flywheel needs to be machined.Just payed for the new clutch Nearly US$2000.So my cost estimate is way to low.

Click to expand...

US$2000 for a clutch sounds very expensive in my ears. I think you can get it in the price range US$500-700 in Europe.

All prices with German VAT (19%):
280mm default clutch plate original LUK/Zetor around 70-130 Euro 280mm
280 mm clutch automate original CZ around 430-550 Euro / PL around 370 to 490 Euro
flywheel original CZ around 400 euro / PL around 320 Euro
pilot beering around 7 to 15 Euro

Time to apart and put back for a workshop that knows what he does around 7 hours - 2 days need a beginner by doing it by self first time. I know friends they do that job in 4-6 hours over night if its needed. No problem with the right tools for a good workshop.

Large workshops in expensive Germany also charge 2,500 to 4,500 euros for clutch repairs. Crazy. Independent workshops that know how to do it charge around 1,500 to 2,000 euros but with spare parts (clutch plate, beerings and automate)!

jack schlachter said:

Also says the flywheel needs to be machined

Click to expand...

It is only necessary if it has bumps - grooves like a record. However, this only makes sense if the flywheel does not yet show any heat clouds in the metal and we are talking about a maximum of 0.8 mm.
If the starter ring gear is also defective, a new flywheel currently costs less than the hourly rate for repairs in a workshop.
The ring gear can be turned over, by the way, it does not always have to be replaced. Knock the old one off with an aluminum mandrel and then warm it up and put it back on the other side - voila, it's like new. It takes less than 30 minutes and you can do it yourself.


But yes I know, different countries, different customs and prices...