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Thanks DIY Farmer. I had a look on Konedata and it pointed out the engine output differences as well as a slightly uprated hydraulic flow rate which probably means an uprated pump. I would imagine these improvements could be achieved with the 84 to 87 model as well though I wonder what they did...

Does anyone know the differences between an early 5211 and a late model? I have one of each to go look at and was wondering about them. The later ones seem to have more power and torque as well as a pre air filter mounted on top of the bonnet. There are also larger plastic radiator vents at the...

Thanks, diy farmer. I'll keep my eyes open. They do show up every now and then at the right money so we will see. Failing that, there's always plenty of Internationals around which give a fair bit of bang for the buck I suppose. All the best, Joe

Thanks gents. In general then, there is no real reason to avoid buying one i.e. they don't have any major problems? diy farmer, you don't know of any about for sale, preferably in the north east or thereabouts of the country? There doesn't seem to be so many for sale any more and here in the...

Thanks Renze. Are you saying that upping the power cures the glazed bore problem? If it needs regular hard work instead to keep the engine from burning oil then that might be a problem. Any tractor I buy will mostly get only light use with a hydraulic transport link box on the back, a rear...

Thanks for that. The last thing I need right now is a lemon. Was the series generally poor or was it just a few individual tractors? Constant repairs no matter how easy or cheap the parts would soon become irritating. Thanks, Joe

Hello everyone, I'm planning on buying a Zetor 5211 or maybe a Zetor 6211 depending on what comes up locally and I was wondering if there is anything I should look for on these tractors to decide whether I am looking at a good one or a bad one? I don't need anything too fancy, just something...