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5011 Issues
- Thread starter badger88
- Start date
- Joined
- Apr 24, 2012
- Messages
- 10
- First name
- Hill Billy
Wish I could help you with your question but I'm a new zetor owner too. It's too bad that members don't make reply's here on this forum, maybe because we are newbies? I made a post a few days ago and only had one reply and plenty of views.???
I would go with the obvious when looking at the 5011 or any tractor for that matter. Brakes, tires, hours on tractor, hydraulics work properly, steering, leaks in hoses,etc.
from what I've been told by Zetor owners here in the states, they are bullet proof tractors. Once I fix the few problems mine has, I think I will be really happy with my purchase.
Good luck,
HBilly
I would go with the obvious when looking at the 5011 or any tractor for that matter. Brakes, tires, hours on tractor, hydraulics work properly, steering, leaks in hoses,etc.
from what I've been told by Zetor owners here in the states, they are bullet proof tractors. Once I fix the few problems mine has, I think I will be really happy with my purchase.
Good luck,
HBilly
Hi Fellas
Nice to see you here.
Your question is a good one if you are not familiar with Zetors and we all have things to learn.
Because the question is so wide it is a little daunting answering it and I am sure it has been answered before many times in various ways.
If you use the search box provided on this forum then you can work through the many hits you will have on your model and learn a lot about it.
Putting your model in the search box will get many hits but searches like clutch will possibly give you information that may apply to your model also.
Various model Zetors have a lot of things in common, particularly when of a similar era. Many parts are common also.
I suppose all older tractors will have some faults but sometimes some advantages also. It depends what you want it for.
Simple things like easy starting, the clutch working well, brakes. amount of smoke put out at various times, steering, quiet transmission, PTO functioning properly, 3 point lift working OK, battery charging and meters functioning, lights if you need them and so on.
Some problems may be easily fixed while others may be more demanding. The 5011 seems to be a popular tractor and the ones I have seen belong to happy owners.
If you find a specific problem then you will probably get a quick answer as some members seem to read the forum regularly.
A search on the past forum replies is even quicker and the best first shot.
Good luck and have fun. They are rugged beasts.
Nice to see you here.
Your question is a good one if you are not familiar with Zetors and we all have things to learn.
Because the question is so wide it is a little daunting answering it and I am sure it has been answered before many times in various ways.
If you use the search box provided on this forum then you can work through the many hits you will have on your model and learn a lot about it.
Putting your model in the search box will get many hits but searches like clutch will possibly give you information that may apply to your model also.
Various model Zetors have a lot of things in common, particularly when of a similar era. Many parts are common also.
I suppose all older tractors will have some faults but sometimes some advantages also. It depends what you want it for.
Simple things like easy starting, the clutch working well, brakes. amount of smoke put out at various times, steering, quiet transmission, PTO functioning properly, 3 point lift working OK, battery charging and meters functioning, lights if you need them and so on.
Some problems may be easily fixed while others may be more demanding. The 5011 seems to be a popular tractor and the ones I have seen belong to happy owners.
If you find a specific problem then you will probably get a quick answer as some members seem to read the forum regularly.
A search on the past forum replies is even quicker and the best first shot.
Good luck and have fun. They are rugged beasts.
Hi Guys,
Specific issues with these tractors are (starting from the front): Water pumps - they, like most water pumps wear out and spring a leak from time to time. They are not expensive or hard to replace or repair though. Check it has coolant in it, not water also. If it has had water in it, you will likely see a welch plug in between the heads rust through and leak. Cheap to fix, but you need to remove the heads.
Fuel pumps - The fuel pumps on these models have their own oil lube supply, there is a compartment in the actual pump part that has a dipstick, and the governor section has a level plug. Check both have oil in them, as this is often neglected by owners that skimp on reading their owners manual . May save you costly pump repairs.
Fuel hoses - If the tractor is hard to start (these things should start with one rev of the engine above 0c), it is most likely perished fuel hoses. They came with poor quality rubber hose, allowing fuel to drain back to tank. A quick cheap fix though.
Power steering - If fitted with a loader, it will have HEAVY steering, no easy fix, though it will save you on gym membership
There is also a splined sleeve that connects the power steering pump to the compressor. This had a babit of stripping the spline sometimes (cheap easy repair), causing you to loose power steering. If the power steering is pulling to one side, this is simply an adjustment. If the cylinder is leaking, it is cheap and easy to reseal as it consists of just orings, though I have replaced mine with a proper hyd lip type seal.
Specific issues with these tractors are (starting from the front): Water pumps - they, like most water pumps wear out and spring a leak from time to time. They are not expensive or hard to replace or repair though. Check it has coolant in it, not water also. If it has had water in it, you will likely see a welch plug in between the heads rust through and leak. Cheap to fix, but you need to remove the heads.
Fuel pumps - The fuel pumps on these models have their own oil lube supply, there is a compartment in the actual pump part that has a dipstick, and the governor section has a level plug. Check both have oil in them, as this is often neglected by owners that skimp on reading their owners manual . May save you costly pump repairs.
Fuel hoses - If the tractor is hard to start (these things should start with one rev of the engine above 0c), it is most likely perished fuel hoses. They came with poor quality rubber hose, allowing fuel to drain back to tank. A quick cheap fix though.
Power steering - If fitted with a loader, it will have HEAVY steering, no easy fix, though it will save you on gym membership
There is also a splined sleeve that connects the power steering pump to the compressor. This had a babit of stripping the spline sometimes (cheap easy repair), causing you to loose power steering. If the power steering is pulling to one side, this is simply an adjustment. If the cylinder is leaking, it is cheap and easy to reseal as it consists of just orings, though I have replaced mine with a proper hyd lip type seal.Front axle pivot (oscillaton) - The bushes in the pivot wear out if not greased (like everything). It is a fairly big job to do, as the pin is usually siezed in the hole.
Engine smoke - It is quite common for these to blow a little blue smoke, not because they are worn out, but because they haven't been worked hard enough. A good workout at max power generally solves this.
Electrics - The starter and alternator is generally bullet proof. Gauges aren't of the highest quality, check they all function. The tractors don't have any electronics that are needed for them to function, as long as it starts and charges.
Clutch - The clutches are normally pretty good, the 5011 only has a linkage operated clutch, which don't give any trouble. The buttress caps in the clutch can wear out and break, but this can be fixed without splitting them. The PTO clutch generally doesn't give any issues, other than the cable for it siezes if not lubricated.
Gearbox - They have an issue with the selector, which can cause two gears to be engaged at the same time. You can tell if this has happened, the tractor will be locked solid if the gear stick is in gear, and it will reverse when in neutral. It takes an hour to fix (no parts), and there is a modification to stop this happening. The levers for the high/low range and PTO have a roll pin to retain them, the pin has a habit of breaking at the most inconvenient time if the lever is forced too hard, then the lever will be useless until the little pin is replaced.
Hydraulics - The hyd pump in them is crap, and wears out in no time if used for loader work etc. They are resonably priced and take an hour to replace though. Take a pressure gauge with you that connects to the remote coupling, the pressure should be around 2400psi from memory. I have replaced my pump with a crankshaft driven pump now, much better, and fast hydraulics.
3 Point linkage - The Zetormatic system works great, and generally gives no trouble, other than the lift piston seals are of poor quality, causing the hitch to drift down. I have replaced the seals in mine with proper hydraulic piston seals, and it will now hold a 1.5T rototiller up for days if needed. It is not a real big job to replace them, just the hitch lift cover is VERY heavy.
Brakes - The Master and slave cylinders were of poor quality when manufactured, though they have now been fixed. They are cheap to buy, buy the whole cylinder if needed, don't replace just the seals, as the cylinder is the poor quality part. The brake slave cylinders take a bit of work to replace, as the whole final drive needs to be removed. Very easy with an engine hoist though. The band type hand brake works great, only the cable for it siezes like the PTO cable if not lubricated.
The above may seem daunting, but these problems generally only will happen once in the life of the tractor, and they are all very cheap and easy to fix. Most problems come from poor maintenance. Keep the oils, coolant, filters and brake fluid fresh, and everything greased, and you will be unlucky to have a problem with them. They are a great tractor, the you can safely squeeze another 10% more HP out of the engines, and they have the weight to help get them horses to the ground, which is what counts.
P.S. we at Zetorworld do answer everyone's posts, we just take a little longer, as we are normally out on the tractor working the fields, not behind the computer looking how to fix them
Engine smoke - It is quite common for these to blow a little blue smoke, not because they are worn out, but because they haven't been worked hard enough. A good workout at max power generally solves this.
Electrics - The starter and alternator is generally bullet proof. Gauges aren't of the highest quality, check they all function. The tractors don't have any electronics that are needed for them to function, as long as it starts and charges.
Clutch - The clutches are normally pretty good, the 5011 only has a linkage operated clutch, which don't give any trouble. The buttress caps in the clutch can wear out and break, but this can be fixed without splitting them. The PTO clutch generally doesn't give any issues, other than the cable for it siezes if not lubricated.
Gearbox - They have an issue with the selector, which can cause two gears to be engaged at the same time. You can tell if this has happened, the tractor will be locked solid if the gear stick is in gear, and it will reverse when in neutral. It takes an hour to fix (no parts), and there is a modification to stop this happening. The levers for the high/low range and PTO have a roll pin to retain them, the pin has a habit of breaking at the most inconvenient time if the lever is forced too hard, then the lever will be useless until the little pin is replaced.
Hydraulics - The hyd pump in them is crap, and wears out in no time if used for loader work etc. They are resonably priced and take an hour to replace though. Take a pressure gauge with you that connects to the remote coupling, the pressure should be around 2400psi from memory. I have replaced my pump with a crankshaft driven pump now, much better, and fast hydraulics.
3 Point linkage - The Zetormatic system works great, and generally gives no trouble, other than the lift piston seals are of poor quality, causing the hitch to drift down. I have replaced the seals in mine with proper hydraulic piston seals, and it will now hold a 1.5T rototiller up for days if needed. It is not a real big job to replace them, just the hitch lift cover is VERY heavy.
Brakes - The Master and slave cylinders were of poor quality when manufactured, though they have now been fixed. They are cheap to buy, buy the whole cylinder if needed, don't replace just the seals, as the cylinder is the poor quality part. The brake slave cylinders take a bit of work to replace, as the whole final drive needs to be removed. Very easy with an engine hoist though. The band type hand brake works great, only the cable for it siezes like the PTO cable if not lubricated.
The above may seem daunting, but these problems generally only will happen once in the life of the tractor, and they are all very cheap and easy to fix. Most problems come from poor maintenance. Keep the oils, coolant, filters and brake fluid fresh, and everything greased, and you will be unlucky to have a problem with them. They are a great tractor, the you can safely squeeze another 10% more HP out of the engines, and they have the weight to help get them horses to the ground, which is what counts.
P.S. we at Zetorworld do answer everyone's posts, we just take a little longer, as we are normally out on the tractor working the fields, not behind the computer looking how to fix them
Thanks for the reply. Exactly what I wanted to know. The tractor has certainly been neglected - it looks like someone took a couple rattlecans of paint to make it look a bit better from the road, but there are a lot of sins under the paint. I can probably get it for maybe a little under $2k. I am planning on talking to a fellow that knows about the tractor that doesn't own it so I can probably get some straighter answers.
I will definitely check out the points you listed and apply a cost benefit analysis to see if it starts living in my shed or not.
If I can get it to function reliably, it would be a useful tool around here.
I appreciate your input.
I will definitely check out the points you listed and apply a cost benefit analysis to see if it starts living in my shed or not.
If I can get it to function reliably, it would be a useful tool around here.
I appreciate your input.
- Joined
- Jul 5, 2003
- Messages
- 4,021
- Location
- Laag Zuthem
- First name
- Renze
Machinery:
1976 5718
1978 5718 35kmh: Work in progress
1967 3011
A 5011 you can get 60hp from, with a big exhaust pipe and a little smoke.
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