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6245 Clutch - have to pump

R

robbieh

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Oct 25, 2012
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First name
OhioBuck8
Hey guys...back again with another question.

My 6245 has a hydraulic clutch. Seems like every other month, you have to pump the clutch pedal a few times to get the tractor to disengage, or else it won't stop.
This has been happening for years (back when it was my father's tractor). It'll loose pressure until it gets to the point where you cant put the tractor in gear or anything.

So a buddy showed me how to bleed the slave cylinder, then I think he had me pump the clutch pedal until the pressure was normal again. This would "fix" it for a while, then over time the pedal would loose pressure again, and we'd have to do it over again. etc.

So...is there anything I can do to permanently fix this?
 
New master cylinder. costs about 70 euro at the dealer, way cheaper in Czechia but then you pay post costs.

Clutch cylinders often go bad.

And also, check the feed lines that feed the master cylinders from the canister. i had one broken on the 5245 and couldnt find it at first.
 
Main dealer price here in the UK 21.47 + Vat
 
Also check the return spring on the Clutch Peddle, if not fitted the weight of the peddle pushing on the master cyl will stop the port opening to allow fresh fluid to replenish the system and eventually it will suck in air past the seals.

Also check the clearance when the peddle is fully up, there should be some (about 1mm is plenty) of clearance between the push-rod and the master cylinder piston. if not the same as above will happen.

Could also be a broken or weak spring in the master cyl but this would make it almost impossible to bleed the system.
 
Thanks for the replies. I am not a mechanic in any way at all, so how hard is it to swap master cylinders? I have friends who are mechanics, just wondering what I would be getting them into. lol

Found this:

http://www.tractorjoe.com/parts/p/62452712-brake-clutch-master-cylinder-1/mt/tractor/b/zetor/m/6245/?c=117&sc=1365

Is this what I need? (I'm in the US)

Thanks
 
That is what you need or if you want to come out cheaper buy the repair-kit
http://www.tractorjoe.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=repairkit&x=0&y=0&machine_type=tractor&brand=zetor&model=6245.
If you chose the repair-kit ask your mechanical skilled friend to assist you however I think you can do it as it is not rocket science.

Hazze

 
For the price, you dont want to mess with a repair kit as its often the scratchmarks in the cylinder that lead to the leak in the first place.
 
Thank you both for the reply. If I decide to just replace it with a new one, is the part in the link I posted the correct part? And is it hard to replace it?
 
It seems to be the right part. Orginal part is 6911-2717 and the text says that the part in your link replace 69112717. If it is complecated is allways relative however give it a try as it is just a replacement work. To bleed the system you need to be two and as your friend is mecanical skilled why not invite him to help you.
Hazze

 
it tok me about one hour to replase it last wekend, open the firewall in thefront off cab and its rigth there. remember to
adjust fre play on the pedal or you willl gett into troble.


 
Thanks again guys. The tractor does this other thing where when I let off the clutch, it takes a couple of seconds before it drives. Like a delay. That makes it tricky for the "delicate" work. Do you think this is related?
 
Thanks again guys. The tractor does this other thing where when I let off the clutch, it takes a couple of seconds before it drives. Like a delay. That makes it tricky for the "delicate" work. Do you think this is related?
Click to expand...

in this case sounds like a broken spring in the master cylinder to me, but mostly i have had this problem on cars with a clutch hose with internal blockage or damage, my Zetor does not have any hoses on brake and clutch lines, but if you do have a hose i would replace it in the first instance.

Have you checked the pedal springs and fulcrum points?

anything that delays the return of the pedal or slave cylinder will result in delayed gripping of the clutch.
 
no it is not releated, oil tru the hole in the vent on left side under cab, it is probebly the release bering taht is moving slowly onn the shaft
 
Thank you. I am in upstate NY and this has been kind of a long winter this year. Come this Spring, and I'll be taking care of these issues. So thanks again to all who have been helping. I actually had to take care of the clutch again (it lost pressure, so I had to bleed air from the slave cylinder, pump the clutch, then re-tighten the bleed valve). First time I did it myself. Took 2 minutes. But I will still replace the master cylinder, as suggested. Just waiting for decent weather.
I will also address the issue with the delay, when I let off the clutch.

Ok..so if you guys arent sick of me yet, I really need something explained. How do I engage and disengage the PTO? I see on the floor 2 levers. I know one is for high/low range and the other I think has to do with the PTO. When sitting in the seat, if I look straight down there is some kind of PTO toggle, with 540 and 1000 written on it. There is also a lever next to the brake lever that I think has something to do with it.

I tried earlier today to engage the PTO, but all I managed to do was loose all hydrolics for the front bucket. It wouldnt go up or anything. I cant even remember what I did but now it works fine.

The lever on the floor next to the high/low is down (forward). Bucket lifts and dumps fine again. So lets say I had a brush hog on the back. How do I turn on the pto?
 
hi the lever taht points bavards nekst to the brake lever is the
pto clutsh lever.
the lever to the left in the cab flor is pto lever all the way dovn
hydrol only one upp pto/hydrol one more uppis nutral one more upp is pto true the gearboks.
the one lever in the midel off the flore is 540/1000 revs pto canger hope this helps you
 

should be the same as our 5211:
when sitting in the operators seat:
the front position works the hydraulic pump but not the PTO. It isn't 'neutral'.
the next position works the hydraulic pump AND the PTO.
then comes neutral again (for pump and PTO)
then finally the "ground speed PTO" pto turns relative to tractor speed

The PTO clutch lever is to the left of the handbrake and disengages both the hydraulic pump and the PTO. do NOT leave the PTO clutch lever disengaged (pulled up) for long periods of time as this will rapidly wear out the PTO clutch throw out bearing
 
Thank you both. I'm beginning to understand it now. So right now the small lever is down (pointing forward) and the front bucket works fine. So let's say I hook a bush hog to the back of the tractor and want to use it to cut a field. In what order would I activate it?
 

typically you want to use the second position from the front (PTO+HYDRAULICS) in case you have to lift the bucket in an emergency. just lift the PTO clutch lever and move the PTO (floor lever) one position back, release PTO clutch. sometimes you can overshoot this position and get neutral again (the third position). Oh and you dont have to force the lever, if hesitant to engage then release the PTO clutch slightly to line up the PTO gear doggs. the floor lever should go into position with some healthy pressure. i know its not good practice but you can step on the floor lever in an emergency to disengage the PTO.
 
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