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6341 Clutch Slave Cylinder

big_orn

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Jul 7, 2003
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Big Orn
Has anyone done a work-around for the clutch slave cylinder? It's nickel and diming me to death. This will be the third cylinder and there's only 2200 hours on this rig...and they're around $100 a pop.
 
Has anyone done a work-around for the clutch slave cylinder? It's nickel and diming me to death. This will be the third cylinder and there's only 2200 hours on this rig...and they're around $100 a pop.

They haven't improve anything so, we a 7245 and 7340 both gave the same troubles too and started happening on 7245 while under warranty. they would just start leaking
 
Thanks for the reply. I am looking into manual linkage but haven't quite gotten past some issues...one which is starting from scratch. I'm not liking it so far but have a couple more ideas.
 
I am looking into manual linkage but haven't quite gotten past some issues...one which is starting from scratch. I'm not liking it so far but have a couple more ideas.

Changing to manual seems like a big job with what to do about the pedal but I did change one the other way put a ZTS cab onto 12145 and did away with a manual clutch but I had all the parts from both tractor to start with.

But if its your only on the third cylinder after 2200 hrs. some people wouldn`t see the problem here, unless your having to be changing them every six months or something.
 
You're probably right, but I have two properties that I maintain and when the cylinder fails, I have to shut down. There's no Zetor parts dealers close by so I have to order by mail.

Back to the linkage - I think I can use the same pivot point on the pedal, but will need to attach the second pivot down low. Finding that much room for a solid rod will be the biggest obstacle. I don't want to get into a fix where the travel of the clutch lever is too far and damage something else.
But I will either have a fail-safe plan or I won't do the work-around...and just keep replacing the slave cylinder.
 
Back to the linkage - I think I can use the same pivot point on the pedal, but will need to attach the second pivot down low. Finding that much room for a solid rod will be the biggest obstacle. I don't want to get into a fix where the travel of the clutch lever is too far and damage something else.

If you able to see a clutch linkage set-up off a 6911 etc. etc. that has no fluid clutch system, you would see the way the controls work.
 
The new slave cylinder has arrived. Do I need to coat the piston in some sort of synthetic fluid? What about the rubber cup? There has to be something that's causing these things to go out. I'm using synthetic Dot 3 (ISO 4925/SAE J 1703) brake fluid. I just can't quite grasp the problem...
 
The new slave cylinder has arrived. Do I need to coat the piston in some sort of synthetic fluid? What about the rubber cup? There has to be something that's causing these things to go out. I'm using synthetic Dot 3 (ISO 4925/SAE J 1703) brake fluid. I just can't quite grasp the problem...

I never did anything to only fit them but you can check there is no rough or filings bits in the cylinder.
I know with the brake cylinders when they went we bought kits to fix them, we use to always hone them out before fitting the kit.
 
Thanks, diyfarmer.
Yes I hone the rebuilds, but they last about the same. Almost always it's the rubber cup seal that leaks by and then scores the cylinder wall.
 
The time I owned the ZTS tractors, they had 2 cylinders that pressed in the clutch plate and were in the bell housing one either side of the shaft coming out of the gearbox, and if 1 went press in the clutch pedal and nothing would happen.

But they had to be centred when fitting new ones, it`s like your problem the shaft going into the cylinder is off centre and is scoring the wall or pressing it crooked.
 

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