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6945 more power.
- Thread starter jackpott
- Start date
The 6945 has more or less the same engine as my 6745, about 65BHP there are only 1 way to get more power................
you need:
1. more fuel and 2. more Air ..... (you will need both to make any more power over factory settings).
if you just pump in more fuel (without more air) you will get clouds of black smoke (half burnt diesel) and the engine will knacker its self from the excess diesel washing the oil off the bores.
If you just add more air, nothing much will happen (unless you already had black smoke)
To get more air into an engine you can either:
1. bolt on a turbo (or supercharger if you are keen)
2. increase the engine RPM (use caution here, it is a tractor not a race car, but 2500rpm should be safe)
3. reduce restrictions to airflow (high flow air filter, ported heads, big valves, high lift cam........... all work well on race cars, but unlikely to make any difference on a Zetor engine, as the ports are very good already ..... (unlike the Mini's i use to race)
Your best option therefore is adding a suitable sized Turbo, and increasing the max fuel adjustment to the point you just see black smoke under full load at 2200rpm (drive up a hill in top gear to test).
In theory if you run the turbo at 14.7psi boost (= ~1 bar, 1 Atm, 101kpa) you have doubled the amount of air going into the engine, therefore you can double the amount of fuel before you run out of air to completely burn the fuel, so you have effectively doubled your power! ......... in practice there are some pumping losses associated with the turbo so the net increase in power at 1 bar boost will max out at about 50-70% increase in power.
if you go over 1 bar boost you will need an intercooler!!!!! (recommended for anything over 12psi boost)
just remember 2 times the diesel = 2 times the heat so your cooling system will need to be in good nick. the Zetor radiator is plenty big enough to handle the 100bhp you can expect to get out of your engine, but only if it is not all blocked up from 20 years of lack of maintenance. .....
also run 50% Glycol coolant and a new pressure cap, as this will increase the boiling temp to ~120Deg.C
try and keep it under 100Deg.C under load.......
the temp can rise up to 120Deg.C on shutdown (called "heat-soak")
Note, depending on your diesel pump you may not be able to get more than a 20% increase in fuel out of it without modifications, or swapping it for a bigger pump of a factory Turbo Zetor.
you need:
1. more fuel and 2. more Air ..... (you will need both to make any more power over factory settings).
if you just pump in more fuel (without more air) you will get clouds of black smoke (half burnt diesel) and the engine will knacker its self from the excess diesel washing the oil off the bores.
If you just add more air, nothing much will happen (unless you already had black smoke)
To get more air into an engine you can either:
1. bolt on a turbo (or supercharger if you are keen)
2. increase the engine RPM (use caution here, it is a tractor not a race car, but 2500rpm should be safe)
3. reduce restrictions to airflow (high flow air filter, ported heads, big valves, high lift cam........... all work well on race cars, but unlikely to make any difference on a Zetor engine, as the ports are very good already ..... (unlike the Mini's i use to race)
Your best option therefore is adding a suitable sized Turbo, and increasing the max fuel adjustment to the point you just see black smoke under full load at 2200rpm (drive up a hill in top gear to test).
In theory if you run the turbo at 14.7psi boost (= ~1 bar, 1 Atm, 101kpa) you have doubled the amount of air going into the engine, therefore you can double the amount of fuel before you run out of air to completely burn the fuel, so you have effectively doubled your power! ......... in practice there are some pumping losses associated with the turbo so the net increase in power at 1 bar boost will max out at about 50-70% increase in power.
if you go over 1 bar boost you will need an intercooler!!!!! (recommended for anything over 12psi boost)
just remember 2 times the diesel = 2 times the heat so your cooling system will need to be in good nick. the Zetor radiator is plenty big enough to handle the 100bhp you can expect to get out of your engine, but only if it is not all blocked up from 20 years of lack of maintenance. .....
also run 50% Glycol coolant and a new pressure cap, as this will increase the boiling temp to ~120Deg.C
try and keep it under 100Deg.C under load.......
the temp can rise up to 120Deg.C on shutdown (called "heat-soak")
Note, depending on your diesel pump you may not be able to get more than a 20% increase in fuel out of it without modifications, or swapping it for a bigger pump of a factory Turbo Zetor.
See also coments on the following post 
- Joined
- Jul 5, 2003
- Messages
- 4,021
- Location
- Laag Zuthem
- First name
- Renze
Machinery:
1976 5718
1978 5718 35kmh: Work in progress
1967 3011
the 9 series had a bigger inlet valve and an extra coolant passage from the head to the block, so it should be able to put a few extra horses out, without wasting too much fuel into smoke.
Because of this extra coolant passage, they used a fine mazed radiator, i dont know if yours has been replaced at some point in its life, but the fine mazed radiator didnt make up for the better coolant flow... Our 5245 also had this radiator, causing it to overheat. With a new radiator i turned the pump open untill it pulled allmost as hard as a 6718 (small inlet valves, no 4wd to drag with)
Oh, good to tell: the 5245 had a 2.5" (63mm) pipe from a 7341 Super, it originally had a 50mm pipe. Your 6945 is probably still exhausting through a straw ? (the original 40mm pipe)
As the 5245 3 cyl. uses the same components as the 6945 4 cylinder engine, my guesstimate is that you must be able to get 70 to 75hp from it, when putting a better breathing exhaust on it and adjusting the pump, which gives about the same smoke level as a Ford 5000 had brand new from the factory...
Because of this extra coolant passage, they used a fine mazed radiator, i dont know if yours has been replaced at some point in its life, but the fine mazed radiator didnt make up for the better coolant flow... Our 5245 also had this radiator, causing it to overheat. With a new radiator i turned the pump open untill it pulled allmost as hard as a 6718 (small inlet valves, no 4wd to drag with)
Oh, good to tell: the 5245 had a 2.5" (63mm) pipe from a 7341 Super, it originally had a 50mm pipe. Your 6945 is probably still exhausting through a straw ? (the original 40mm pipe)
As the 5245 3 cyl. uses the same components as the 6945 4 cylinder engine, my guesstimate is that you must be able to get 70 to 75hp from it, when putting a better breathing exhaust on it and adjusting the pump, which gives about the same smoke level as a Ford 5000 had brand new from the factory...
On cooling also, I have added a coolant recovery tank to my 7245. It makes a big difference to cooling, as it virtually eliminates any air from the system, very important to prevent boiling, and also stops the annoying trait of it losing coolant out the overflow whenever you work it.
I had to remove the radiator and get a new shorter neck fitted to the top tank in place of the old long style neck. This is needed, as you cannot get recovery caps to fit the long style. I also got it flushed at the same time. Fitted a new 87c thermostat so it runs a bit wamer to stop it carboning up. Once refitted, I ran a few doses of good quality cooling system cleaner through it, until it was clean, then filled with good quality coolant (Cummins TEC PGXL).
Happy to report it now sits in the middle of the green zone, and does not move from there, no matter how hard I work it. Checking coolant level is easy now also, you just need to check the recovery bottle level.
I had to remove the radiator and get a new shorter neck fitted to the top tank in place of the old long style neck. This is needed, as you cannot get recovery caps to fit the long style. I also got it flushed at the same time. Fitted a new 87c thermostat so it runs a bit wamer to stop it carboning up. Once refitted, I ran a few doses of good quality cooling system cleaner through it, until it was clean, then filled with good quality coolant (Cummins TEC PGXL).
Happy to report it now sits in the middle of the green zone, and does not move from there, no matter how hard I work it. Checking coolant level is easy now also, you just need to check the recovery bottle level.
you must be able to get 70 to 75hp from it, when putting a better breathing exhaust on it and adjusting the pump, which gives about the same smoke level as a Ford 5000 had brand new from the factory...
Hahahahahahaha....... i just replaced my 1969 Ford 4000 with a Zetor 6745 ......... Ooooh the difference!
and the Zetor will start on a frosty morning........ the Ford has to wait until after lunch lol
I will be interested as to how you get on as my 6745 struggles to get up the hill i live on in top gear and 4th is toooo low
was thinking i might turbo it, but dont have the time or energy just at the moment
- Joined
- Jul 5, 2003
- Messages
- 4,021
- Location
- Laag Zuthem
- First name
- Renze
Machinery:
1976 5718
1978 5718 35kmh: Work in progress
1967 3011
what pump do you have ? still with cold start button, or an automatic one ?
- Joined
- Jul 5, 2003
- Messages
- 4,021
- Location
- Laag Zuthem
- First name
- Renze
Machinery:
1976 5718
1978 5718 35kmh: Work in progress
1967 3011
