7745 with noisy transmission

[dave_peters]

No, no heater as standard, in UK at least, I have no experience of temps like yours, if it gets to -2 c here we think its cold.
Seriously though, maybe one of the contributers from a cold country will conmment.
Some people leave the compressor running all the time, but we tend to use it only when we want the air.
Dave

 

[forterra9641]

A cold starting device is fitted on these tractors. when you start push the hand throttle to full speed. it vill turn over a valve in the diesel pump, wich give you more diesel than normal in the starting moment. also this device will automatically keep the rpm around 1000.1300 rpm until engine is warm. Here in norway we often have cold tempratures but i never had any problems starting my 7745 in temps as low as -25C you could use the block heater if fitted its much better for the engine. it will also ease the start. These tractors are equipped here in norway as standard with a heater that works wery well. Also if your tractor is not fitted with an air reservoir tank. You must not have the compressor running without the air hose connected. or else u may blow the compressor. also the lubrication of the clutch The dealer ship here in norway says not to lubricate it . it will make more of a mess in the clutch housing than it will do good. Usually there is a sweat in the clutch housing so there is no need to add oil. the lube and pipe wich to lube through was removed on later models because it wasnt necesseary.The noise in your transmission could come from the hydraulic pump, if the shift lever for 540/1000 rpm is set to 1000 rpm.

 

[juney68]

Thanks guys ! Your expertise is greatly appreciated. Although it provoked more questions. About the air tank, I would like to add this. Any recommendations about size,location,plumbing,relief valves, etc would be helpful. Maybe even a picture. On the hyd pump causing the noise, I had it in all the different positions and it made no difference. Also, my cab heater fan is not working. How do I access this ? I read something about tilting the cab roof but not sure how to do this or if I need to. I did not see any fuse labled for this Dave. Do you know which one ? Thanks to all. juney

 

[dave_peters]

Are you sure you havn't got an air tank? It would be under the floor to the left of the gearbox, About 1' dia and 2 1/2' long.There's a guage showing its pressure on the dash.
Maybe us spec tractors arn't fitted with this.
To lift the cab roof, stand on the bonnet (us=hood) and undo the 4 bolts around the bottom of the white roof then lift it up, it's hinged at the back.
Look at Mike's post of a couple of days ago about the fuses for the cab roof.
Our tractor has another smaller fuse box which is for the roof only, located just above the main one. the fans take a lot of juice, so when you get them working dont leave them running without the engine going.
Dave

 

[forterra9641]

As your tractor is nott fitted with air tank from factory. it doesent have airbrakes (optional) or air trailer brakes. thats why there is no need for a reservoir tank. to get to the cabin heater fans you have to unscrev two srews in the corners of the roof console inside the cab. rater big screws with a big plastic washer. then the roof will sving down. som consoles have hinges some dont. you can see the hinges just above the windscreen if they are fitted. it also depends if its the narrow or wide cab thats fitted. be care ful with the front window as you swing it down. if its not hinged. the whole thing will come down. be careful.also the fuses in the top fusebox wich is for the heater and fans. im not sure wich of them. it varies slightly after wich country you are in and what kind of equipment is fitted.the relays for the fans are located near the fans in the roof console. They may very well be the cause of your problem. You check if they work by turning the switch and listen for a click. be sure to check the fuses before you do. hope this will help you .by the way this procedure im giving you is for the narrow cab with the steel roof. Daves reply is for the wide cab with fiberglass roof

 

[juney68]

Thanks guys, I checked and mine does not have a air tank. If I just added one would I have to put some type of pressure relief valve on it ? On the cab fans, it turned out to be the fuses. I had only checked the fuses in the lower box. Mine has the fiberglass roof. Do you need to oil these motors ? Thanks, juney

 

[forterra9641]

yes you would have to fit a pressure relief valve. no need to oil motors in the fans. when they are worn out you will hear a loud ratteling noise. because the fan blades touch the fans interior walls.

 

[juney68]

What psi or bar should this relief valve be set at ?

 

[forterra9641]

if you buy the original its preset from factory. but dont mount the air tank you dont need it....... do you. its more trouble than its worth if you ask mee

 

[dave_peters]

To carry on from the previous post, What do you need an air tank for?. The factory tank does not allow air stored to be used for anything other than air brakes on a trailer and air assistance for the hand clutch and foot pto operation, so if you only need it for tyre inflation then your current system works the same as it would with a tank.
Dave

 

[juney68]

I had tried pumping up a tire with it just to see how it worked and it seemed very slow. So I was thinking that if I had a air tank to hold a reserve amount in, then when I needed to pump a tire or blow something out I would have a supply. Maybe this is not a good idea. This is the first tractor that I've had with a compressor on it, so I really dont know. This is what we do with our big trucks though, that have air brakes. That's why I thought it would be good on the tractor. Thanks. juney

 

[forterra9641]

you must have about 1500 to 2000 rpm to get a good airsream when you pump a tire it will sure be an improvement . try it

 

[dave_peters]

If you had a tank fitted as Zetor fit as standard, then it would be possible to pipe in an airline fitting either in the pipework leading to the tank similar to the T which goes to the PTO clutch or possibly where the water drain comes out of the tank, this would achieve what you want.
Dave

 

[darylat8750ft]

imho the air tank would not be worth the bother. The block heater is not absolutely nessesary, but I believe very worthwhile. I live in WY and it is much easier on the starter when it has been plugged in for 30 to 45 min. My tractor is stored in an unheated shop and the smoke from starting leaves a layer of soot on everything if I start it at 0 F without preheating. With preheating it starts with little wear on the starter and smokes very little before I can back it out. If we are expecting a big storm I it plug it in before I go to bed (and cover the hood/bonnet with an old blanket). If it has been plugged in for a couple of hours the engine only has to run for a couple of minutes before producing heat for the cab. This is very nice when it is in the -15F / -25C (?) range and the wind is blowing 45 mph. I think the block heater is thermostaticly controlled and having it out of the wind and covered helps cut down on electricity use. I seems to use less than a dollar's worth of electricty to have it plugged in for 24 hours.
Daryl in WY

 

[juney68]

Thanks guys ! Sounds like the air tank would be more trouble than its worth. I need to try it at the higher rpm's as it was just a little above idle when i tried it before. Another question for ya - Yesterday I was putting out a round bale and when I tried to go up on the pile in 6th gear (mine has 5 x 2 gearbox) the 4wd did not work. I had put it in 4wd earlier so I feel sure it had time to engage properly. I put it in low range (3rd gear) and it went right on up, 4wd working properly. My question is does the 4wd only work in low range ? Thanks, juney