8011 clutch won't disengaged

[brenten5]

Hi having dramas with my clutch, 12 months ago I put in a new clutch plate and adjusted all mechanical adjustments on the clutch pack to spec according to the workshop manual and now the other day every time I put my foot on the pedal I got less and less "spring" and less and less disengaging effect to the point that I wound the external adjustment to the maximum and still won't disengage,

I removed the inspection plates and all the fingers and whatnots are all tight with no play but are further in out of spec adjustment than what I had set up, I can't possibly work out what has gone wrong I have no doubt I'm going to have to split it for the 4th time in 3 years Yay how fun

 

[dave_peters]

Before you split it again, take the cover off again and put a spanner on the toggle bolts, they have a waist and have been known to break. It can be quite hard to get the broken off bit out !!

 

[brenten5]

They are the ones on the end of the levers right? If so I turned the flywheel and had a feel by hand and they all seemed tight to where I had adjusted them

 

[dave_peters]

No, not the adjusting bolts on the toggle arms.
I am assuming that the tractor has the original zetor clutch, this won't apply to for example LUK replacement covers.
There are 3 bolts which are locked with a bolted in lock tab , from memory 19 or 17 mm spanner size,one of those. Check all the bolts you can see or feel that are on the cover. Sorry to be a bit vague about this but it's probably 15 years since I fixed a zetor original clutch !

 

[brenten5]

Ok I know the ones you mean they put tension on the arms, I checked all them as well and they all seemed fine although I didn't try pulling them out as if they may have broken but of one of those were broken wouldn't the corresponding arm be positioned differently?

 

[dave_peters]

Unless anyone has any other suggestions it appears that you will have to split it, sorry

 

[brenten5]

Haha yet it's a mystery, I'm almost a zetor spitting expert now, last time I did it only took me 2 hours to have the clutch out, the hardest bit is just finding the time to do it and also the new loader on the front will cause dramas this time around

 

[brenten5]

Had a more detailed look at the clutch and I'm convinced that the whole clutch pack is as I adjusted it that there is nothing actually wrong with the clutch, I'm still not sure exactly what's wrong though but I think it has something to do with something between the pedal and the throwout bearing.

Now that I have said that does anyone think or know if it's possible if the two fork prong (that pushes the throwout bearing into the clutch) can slip or something on that shaft that runs one side of the bellhousing to the other? I thought it was machined on but is it keyed on or grub screwed on or even spined on maybe?

 

[brenten5]

Ok so after some more careful inspection and cleaning off of years of dirt and grease I have found that the lever that connects to the shaft on the outside of the bellhousing that then goes in to push that fork into the clutch that the welding that holds that lever in position has broke and turned on the shaft.

So all in all will be an easy fix, time and time again I have always proven to myself that's it's always most likely a simple explanation.

As for the 8045 I recently purchased for parts have discovered that it's clutch issue is no more than a siezed throwout bearing that has in turn worn the head of the bolts down on the clutch levers, also easy fix.