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question Anyone else is also constantly having problems with the electric fuel pump on the Forterra HSX 140 model?

polini

Member
Level 2
Joined
Oct 22, 2024
Messages
10
Location
Hungary
First name
Bálint
Machinery:
Zetor Forterra HSX 140, 2018
I bought my tractor used, with 3,330 operating hours. After using it for about 200 hours, it suddenly stopped in the middle of the field while towing a trailer. At that point, I received error code 520500, which indicates a failure of the fuel injection pump.
The electric motor on the pump that operates the rack had failed—it wouldn't move at all. Zetor recommended replacing the entire injection pump assembly, but instead, I only replaced the electric motor with a new one.
The tractor then ran for another 100 hours or so before stopping again during soil work. Same error code, and a similar issue: the electric motor now moves a little, but not enough to reach the desired position—so in the end, the tractor still won’t operate.

Is this electric Motorpal injection pump really that unreliable?
I’ve now removed the injection pump and taken it in for a full overhaul, but I’m still not confident that the tractor will be reliable after this.
The tractor currently has a total of 3,660 operating hours.
 
but I’m still not confident that the tractor will be reliable after this.
I have my HSX 140 since 2017 and I've never had trouble like this. I have never touched anything on the engine only serviced it. I think yours is a newer model because of the red wheels.
 
The ones with the electric throttle controls on the injector pump can give trouble I've been told. The older ones with fully mechanical linkage are alot more reliable.
 
Are you sure that the electric motor is to blame and not just defective because something else is too stiff?
 
The older ones with fully mechanical linkage.
What's on an electric throttle control that's different with my mechanical one? When I turn on the key, I can hear linkages moving on the pump. How can you tell the difference?
 
What's on an electric throttle control that's different with my mechanical one? When I turn on the key, I can hear linkages moving on the pump. How can you tell the difference?
What you are hearing is the stopper solenoid.


This guy. When you turn on the ignition, creates an electromagnetic and opens the valve for fuel. Turn off the ignition, it springs closed and cuts fuel.

The mechanical throttle control has rods and linkages like this
.
This is what you have. Newer models I'm told have a different system involving electronics and what a mechanic told me a couple weeks ago give trouble.
 
When you turn on the ignition, creates an electromagnetic and opens the valve for fuel . Turn off the ignition, it springs closed and cuts fuel.
Yes that's on mine. It makes a fair bang noise, when you turn the key to start. I remember thinking when I bought it, how modern it felt not have to pull a stopper or anything, just turned the key to stop the engine like a car.
 
Are you sure that the electric motor is to blame and not just defective because something else is too stiff?
At this point, I don’t know exactly what the issue is. I’ve now removed the entire injection pump and taken it to a specialist workshop for a complete overhaul. Hopefully, this will finally solve the problem and the tractor will be usable in the future.
Since I bought it, it feels like every time I really need to work with it, something breaks down. I can’t keep dealing with constant repairs—this just isn’t acceptable for me. Because of these recurring issues, I’ve even started considering trading it in for a different brand.

Yes that's on mine. It makes a fair bang noise, when you turn the key to start. I remember thinking when I bought it, how modern it felt not have to pull a stopper or anything, just turned the key to stop the engine like a car.
Compared to a traditional mechanical injection pump, the only difference is that there’s no linkage—an electric motor moves the internal rack inside the pump. There’s really nothing particularly complex about this setup, yet it still fails to work reliably.
I’m trying to find the root cause, but I haven’t been able to figure it out yet. According to the specialist workshop, the electric motor is indeed the faulty component—mechanically, the pump itself is in perfect condition.
 
Compared to a traditional mechanical injection pump, the only difference is that there’s no linkage
I can say mine, is never given trouble like that anyway. I was away on a long road trip. Stopped and restarted several times along the way and back again. Never even gave a second thought to what I was doing.
 

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