Anyone else keep their tractor outside

[mp_montreal]

I've been having problems with my alternator and now the battery is running down. After checking, alternator is barely generating charge. (Time for a rebuild.)

Guess I should look at getting a 70 amp instead of 55 amp.

But what may be of interest to some, even after recharging the battery and adding on power boost of 600 amp crank charge,
the motor started for about 6 seconds then just died.

Tried to turn it over again but it seem to be jammed.

First thought was starter, battery, grounding problem, broken piston, etc. etc.

After a few hours of frustration, I just kept pressing the starter then after almost 30 seconds she finally started up with what seemed to be a couple of gallons of water spitting out the muffler.

We had severe rains and since the tractor is outside, guess the angled muffler just wasn't able to deflect the rain thus the water in the muffler and looks like its mixed in with the engine oil.

Time to change oil anyway.

Now I have a tin can over the muffler.

Guess the rain got in and put added compression on the engine making it seem like it was ceased.

Someone mentioned to me why not drill a 1/16 inch hole in the bottom of the muffler to let any water accumlation out. Does seem to be quite rusted at the bottom so it might not be a bad idea.

Appreciate comments from the PROs. I'm somewhat reluctant to drill - but if has no impact, I'll go for it.

Also, this is the second alternator repair in less than a year. When I bought the 7745 in April/04, the dealer said it had battery drain and sent the alternator off to be rebuilt. Problems started with battery drain again mid-July 04. Any suggestions on what the problem could be.

Tests now show about 12. 5 amps on battery, at starter and at alternator. Could defective alternator drain battery? Any thoughts!

Thanks
Mike

 

[Renze]

Drilling the hole will have no side effects than a bit of exhaust gas leak. Just make it not too big, 2 mm would be enough, and wont cause it to crack due to vibrations.

In fact many tractors had a factory drilled hole in the manifold.

The battery problem, if it is an original alternator, the charge controller in the room under the steering wheel might also be defective.


A good alternator gives 13.5 Volt when charging. (when not charging, voltage will be standard 12 volt)

 

[mp_montreal]

Thanks Renze!

The manual gave a test procedure to check if the regulator was defective. Inter-connect a wire between the DF with I believe its the D (or F) wire, then touch the positive power feed with the other end of the wire for 2 to 3 seconds. (Running over 800 rpms)

If the alternator is good, it will kick in. If its not, it will still show up around the 12.5 amp area. I believe they also state if alternator running under 12.5, automatic its defective alternator.

One other thing I still do not understand but I should have stated.

The dashboard battery light used to come on with the oil light whenever key was pressed in. Now its only the oil light. Ground to battery lite on dash looks okay. Book says - if key pressed in and battery light fails to illuminate, its a bad alternator.
Very curious.

I'll start with the alternator then if still a problem, it is likely the regulator as you pointed out.

There is no cover to protect the alternator on my 7745 either.
Perhaps rain is also getting into it causing shorts, rust, etc.

Mike

 

[Renze]

Mike, our 5245 has the standard cover.

The old ones didn't have it, because the old type generator was a closed construction, rainproof.

Good luck.

 

[markku]

Zetor folks.....

How can you do that ??????

The original Pal alternator what is mounted for zetors are "bomb proof" charger!!

Havent got any broken yeat! (with 7 zetor experience)

My opinion is that if the battery is ok the charger works as long as the tractor...

 

[crystalman]

I would look at the charge warning bulb.It may need to be working to complete the circuit so that it charges the battery-I know the old Ferguson T-20's were like this.Also if the alternator is dead it will flatten the battery and the charge light will stay on even with everything turned off! Had it happen to my Crystal.Luckily it was still in the dealers yard so he had to fit a new alternator before I bought it!

 

[mp_montreal]

Guess from Markku's comments, I'm not very lucky as my alternator was indeed defective.

The diodes, bearings, were worn and changed but the culprit was the stator. Basically only the rotor seemed good.

I'll be re-installing the alternator this weekend and check to make sure the regulator is working properly as per Renze's suggestion and that the battery warning light is working correctly per Crystalman's suggestion.

I've charged the battery on slow 2 amp charge and it reads full so hopefully its just a matter of re-connect and go!

I noted in the manual that we should keep water of the alternator as the mid and rear sections are not sealed. I'll rig up cover to fit between the loader side motor panel to better protect the alternator.

Thanks for the help guys - I'll let you know how it turns out.

Mike

 

[mp_montreal]

Great news ! Re-attached alternator, put key in, oil and battery lights showed up, pressed starter and alternator charging at steady 13.5 volts.

Guess it was an alternator problem afterall.

Renze - you mention a good alternator charges at 13.5 (which mine is now doing) The book shows 14.5 should be the magic number if battery 100%.

If battery hodling 50% charge, book reads charge should be at 13.5 volts. Alternator should be producing roughly 1.5 to 2 volts more than battery. (Battery reading taken with engine off).

Would appreciate confirmation that the 13.5 volts is a good reading. If my battery is only 50 to 70% good, will this have a negative impact on the alternator. Should I put in new battery.

Hate to have to run out and buy a new battery but if need be,
guess I'll have to.

Appreciate your expertise. Mike

 

[alan]

To keep the battery fully charged the Alternator should show 13.5v to 14.5v with the engine running above 1200 RPM

 

[mp_montreal]

I finally broke down and bought a new DIGITAL volt meter.

After having run my 7745 for an hour or so the day before, last night I took some new readings.

Good news - the battery reads 12. 51 volts and the alternator is producting 14.37 volts.

Same reading at alternator and starter plus I took multi-readings over a 15 minute period with same results.

What do you know, info in workshop manual was bang on for the alternator problem I encountered.

Thanks for all your comments and help !

Mike