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crystal 8011

Z

zetor3545

Member
Level 1
Joined
Dec 10, 2006
Messages
322
First name
Matthew Morgan
Machinery:
Zetor 3545
hi guys

im suppose to be going to see a zetor crystal 8011 over christams holidays! my mate has been to have a quick glance over her. she has sat 10 years and and he thinks her engine is full of water!!! the tin isnt much chop! and she has loads of ivy over her ;) i suppose all the masters and slaves are bugered!! and i may be looking at an engine rebuild kit!

does 200 sound ok for it :sneaky:

matthew
 
200 (300 Euro) - a snip at twice the price. You'll probably buy it for 150! You can't go wrong at that money.

I bet you anything that if you drain the fuel lines, bypass the fuel tank for now and feed clean diesel from a plastic bottle, new fuel filters, change engine oil , clean oil filter spinner (note alignment marks for dynamic balance on reassembly) and a fresh battery with good electrical connections, I'll bet she'll fire up for you.

If not a tow from one of your other machines will get her going.

Let us know how your get on.


 
cheers for that tom. :) what worries me is she is full of water my mate says!! this concerns me! is it going to be a real pig to try and get her free?? im just hoping she hasnt locked up hopefully shell turn on a bar if i remove the starter motor? if not i have some proffesional allot wheel cleener it is strong stuff a bit of that down each bore and leave her for a few days she may turn??

thanks matthew
 
i did that on a nuffield some years ago. filled the cylinders with disel and waited tree-four days. I used a very big screw driver where starter is fitted.
 
but what if she is stuck solid! im stuck then! a block of wood in the bore followed by a by hammer ;)

matthew
 
anyone have any other ideas if her engine is stuck?

i dont want to go and remove the cylinder head if i can help it.

we have a grey fergie here she had rusted most of her studs in the block. 3 of them shaered in the block. i got them out though.

so any ideas what i can try??



matthew
 
Matthew, I think you have to remove the injectors and see if there is water in the cylinders. If there is you probably dont have any hope of fixing it without removing the head. If not then flood each cylinder with a penetrating oil and leave for a few days, then try and move it. If it moves a little then turn it back in the opposite direction rather than forcing it on and "rock" it. this helps the oil down past the rings. But bear in mind the top ring is having to scrape rust off the cylinder wall so dont use a lot of force. Head gaskets are cheap from Zetor dealers... under 20 including postage, and you can check the valves when the head is off. the likelyhood is that there will be rust on at least one pair of valves which will not come off during work so that will need attention.
Dave
 
im not to fussed about taking the head off ive done a few of them. its more the fact of the studs in the block. it is probobaly best to remove the head as you say because of possible rust. i reckon my best bet is to put some of my strong alloy wheel clearner ( this is deadly i left a seized pin inside a shaft soak in it overnight next morning tap with a hammer came loose). then remove the sump and get the pistons and conrods out and clean them all up. then i will know if there is any faults to be found!

godd idea you think??

matthew
 
I don't think you will have trouble with the head studs, the are not drilled into the water, and the nuts on top will effectively seal out any water from getting down. Use either a stud remover or 2 nuts backed together to remove them.
Dave
 
Hi Fellas. Bought my first zetor tractor a crystal 8011 but the handbrake although working will not stay up unless propped up with something how would I go about fixing this problem ???? I know nothing about Zetor tractors.
 
Replace the pawl & ratchet at the base of the handbrake lever then all will be well
 
Thanks Alan,

I take it that it is not a big job, also have a small diesel leak around the top of the injector pump is this a problem would love to get it stopped.

 
Hi Lads, more trouble im afraid. There is a good deal of diesel leaking out of the Fuel injector where the four pipes connect in to it - as far as I can make out ? Am I as well take this to a professional or is it a nightmare to get it stopped. Apart from that the Tractor is as dry as chalk so it would be great to get the leak stopped.
 
You will have to dry and clean it thoroughly and find exactly where the fuel is coming from, then someone will be able to advise you. are all pipes tight ?
Dave
 
Check that one of the injection pipes have not fractured by the nipple under the nut, if it has replace the complete pipe as they cannot be repaired. As Dave said clean first to identify where the leak is coming from. Beware fuel injection pressure will penetrate the skin!!!
 
Hi Guys,
Just wondering do any of you know a possible reason why the 8011 I bought is very hard to get into gear it is fine if the high-low box is not engaged then it will slip into gear easily and the same vice versa but if one or the other of the gear sticks are engaged then it is very difficult to get the other into gear.

 
Its probably due to "wind up" in the gear train caused by the layshaft brake being rather too good, if its adjusted properly the layshaft brake will not operate until the pedal is 60mm off the floor, so try not pushing it all the way down to start with.
If it is still a serious problem then the clutch pedal needs adusting.
The gearstick that usually sticks is the LH. the 1 11 R stick, if you put the other out of gear it will free.
Most crystal drivers learn to work round this problem with practice and clutch timing.
Dave
 
Thanks Dave, tried your suggestion of not pushing the clutch all the way to the ground at various heights but It made no difference. I dont know what a layshaft brake is so i am all at sea on that .How do I adjust the clutch pedal. FYI when the tracor is level there does not seem to be as much of a problem and it 8/10 times is easily changed. Also both gear sticks get stuck not just the L/H and force has to be used to get the 1234 gear stick into neutral thus freeing up the L/H gear stick. Was wondering would there possibly be clutch fluid or something that I could check that is a complete shot in the dark.
 
Strictly speaking its not a layshaft brake, but a brake pad that presses onto the TA drum and stops it turning, thats why it is sometimes easier to change when in slow TA than in high.
Here's a scan of the workshop manual for the brake adjustment. adjust this first , then with the bottle screw no 5&6 set the free play on the pedal to around 40 MM. if this doesnt improve things then I suspect the clutch will need looking at, Maybe the spigot bearing is worn and dragging.
Dave
 
Hi Dave, you seem to really know your stuff about crystal 8011's. if there is supposed to be a diagram with that last post it did not load properly would it be possible to load the diagram if not its no problem.
 

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