Electrical problem 8540

[transpond]

About every month or so my 8540 is draining its battery dead overnight. A heavy drain short with no ignition switched on.
I recharged the battery and when I reconnected the negative it sparked a little which indicates the frame is live with no ignition?? Any pointers or analysing checks that can help identify the fault would be appreciated. ps I have checked wiring etc so assume it is either alternator, starter motor or cold start regulator based??

 

[toogista]

Hi, I have been reading about problems with the charging system on my 3320 and they sound very much like what you have. And I quote if battery is loosing charge quickly while tractor is not used(overnight or when tractor is parked for a few days): Sometimes the battery is loosing charge although alternator is charging and battery is good. This is caused by a drain thru the electrical system while the tractor is parked. Most likely cause is the four-way flasher. This relay has frequently some drain but only 8-13mA. In case the drain is higher for example 150mA relay is defective. To find out whether relay is defective,disconnect it to check whether drain disappears. If the large drain disappears replace the four way flasher relay. if it does not then turn off all appliances, disconnect ground from the battery and hook up a ammeter between the negative battery post and the negative cable end. The ammeter will now read the current drain from the battery, normally drain should only be 8-13mA. But in your case the drain will be much higher. Remove one fuse at a time until the drain disappears, This will locate the cause of the drain. If drain remains with all the fuses out then it is caused by the voltage regulator or the alternator to find out which one disconnect the wire to the voltage regulator if the drain remains, then the the alternator is the problem, replace the rectifier or the whole alternator

 

[toogista]

By the way I forgot to tell you to take one fuse out at a time till you find the one that stops the drain,and if it does'nt then proceed to the next step.

 

[Renze]

You could also use a main switch between the - pole of the battery, and the tractor frame. It solves all of these problems, and it has also the advantage that you just can shut off this main, instead of taking off the battery cable when welding on an implement hooked up behind the tractor.

 

[transpond]

Thanks for valued advice. I have fitted a new isolator switch, easily accessed by cab step. The original isolator was only accessed by removing front grill panel and as the tractor carries a loader was not easily accessed on a regular basis.
One further problems/question??
The battery dropped out and I ran over it while loading bales.(Front panel was left off, where I had to keep pulling off earth cable at night) That battery casing has crack and no acid on one cell- the end one with -'ve terminal... otherwise all cells are intact. Is it salvageable? Can I repair the crack with epoxy, top up with acid and make it good?

 

[guntar]

Personally for me, I would replace it. I have seen batteries do wierd and bad things once damaged in my 20+ years as an electronics technician. It is cheap insurance to have it replaced then have something bad happen to the tractor.

Acid can cause lots of damage in a short amount of time. Just my 2 cents