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How do you increase the horsepower?

wfo

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Apr 14, 2007
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DRoberts
I noticed in some old threads that some members referred to increasing the horsepower of their tractors. What is involved with this? Is this a do-it-yourself job (I've re-built gasoline car engines)?
 
remove the backplate of the fuel pump and turn open the happy screw. ;)
 
[quotepost=2]
remove the backplate of the fuel pump and turn open the happy screw. ;)
[/ -- End of Quote --

Renze, it is not turn open, it is turn closed (clockwise) if you want some black smoke..


 
in college me and a friend opened the pump out on a david brown 880. we done it at dinner break while no one was looking. we opened it out to maximum. the college lecturers could not understand what was going on when they started it up after break. we just kept our heads low. :p
 
Hogi, i didnt remember that part correctly, but the idea was to "open up" the fuel flow.. ;)
 
I have question . I have replaced injection device in my 12145 and new nozzles. Timing angle is correctly and pressure of nozzles too but now engine produces slightly white smoke. Is this caused by wrong valve clearance? I have no idea??? Injection device is new motorpal pump.
 
Did you line up the marks on the nozzels with the marks on the injector body ? If not that can cause white smoke
Dave
 
This is standart motorpal pump mounted in 12145 and 12245. The marks on nozzle body and injector holder are in the line. New sealings fix it. Thanks!
 
Hi,
Had a look at this setup on my 8011, can anyone clarify which
screw, there are two threaded through the pump housing
at the top (look like limit screws for the arm), the arm that is attached to the governor has a screw at the top locked with 10mm nut
and one in centre locked with 22mm nut which one should i be adjusting and in which direction to increase fuelling
Thanks in advance
 
You have to remove the small round plate on the rear of the pump that is held on by 2, 8mm (I think) bolts.
Inside you will see a screw that is locked by a nut, sorry I can't remember the size, slacken the nut with a socket and turn the screw in, remember part of a turn can make quite a lot of difference.
I wouldn't be sure that that is the way to turn it, but in a previous post this is mentioned.
Tighten up the lock nut being careful not to over do it, and start up . Open the throttle sharply a couple of times and see if you have more black smoke than you had previously on acceleration. If you have you turned it the correct way.
Dont run it for long without the cover on as the oil that came out will have to be replaced. Use engine oil .
Fill it through the large breather on top up to the level screw on the side of the govenor end of the pump.
If you have a late crystal, one where the dipstic screws, in then the pump will be pressure fed and you dont have to worry about the oil.
Hope this helps, Dave
l
 
Cheers for the reply Dave P, on my setup I have 4 M6 bolts holding the rear cover, this is and Ursus 385 which I know is the same as an 8011, i've played with some of the screws but no increase in fuelling The largest nut has a spring loaded screw (with shaft sticking from centre) for adjusment and this will give the desired results when the shaft is pushed in towards the pump, but no adjustment of any screw seems to have efffect when the throttle is blipped, think i'm getting bit out of my league, maybe some one can help Thanks
 
And yes the dipstick screws in to the engine (thought you were mentioning the pump) so was a bit confused
 
Sorry for the confusion. I did mean the engine dipstick. Around 1985 the engine was modified to fit a balancer in the crankcase and to pressure feed the injector pump among other small differences. the easiest way to identify the modified engine is to see where the dipstick is. if its at the back and pushes in then its the old engine, if its near the injector pump and screws in its the newer one.
You have the newer one.
That pump does have 4 m6 bolts. when the cover is removed the fuel adjuster is the one with a screw locked by a nut. there is normally around 8-10 mm of screw protruding through the nut.
Its possible that its already set to max. however all is not lost. What I'm about to suggest is normally only done in an injector service shop. you will notice that where the injector pipes come out of the pump there are clamps holding serrated nuts firm, well, slacken injector pipes, remove the clamps and turn each serrated nut just one notch anti clockwise. its vital you turn each exactly the same.then replace clamps , do up pipes and see what has happenned. Good luck !!
Dave
 
Agricultural diesel must be much cheaper than in most of Europe if you can afford to burn the extra needslessly :D

Remember: Black smoke = unburnt fuel = money up the exhaust pipe
 

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