Ignition the cause of electrical problems?

Hi Folks,

A friend of mine has asked me to fix the electrical "issues" he is having on his Zetor. Since I am pretty good with mechanical/electrical issues and he isn't... Of course I'm better if I have a schematic but he doesn't have one.

The problem is this... His tractor (sorry don't even know model) has 2 fuse blocks. The top has power at all fuses, this seems to run heat, wipers, etc..

The bottom block only has power at the bottom (of fuse. Does all power get controlled by the ignition switch on these tractors or are there relays etc.. in between?

He has no upper cab lights, rear halogen, instrument gauges, etc...

Can I use any old ignition switch (without crank position) will the wiring be easy to match up or do I need one from Zetor?

Thanks in advance for your help.

You are correct that the ignition switch is the heart of the electrical system.I think the fuse boxes take their power from it.Bosch do a switch that is almost identical.On most models you twist the key to turn on the lights through 3 positions (sidelights,dip and main beam).Twisting back from off gives parking lights.Then there are more light switches in the cab roof(On my 8245 anyway) and maybe a separate pull swich on the dash for dash lights.There maybe relays up in the roof aswell for the auxillary work lights!
Sorry I can't be more specific but I don't know much about the newer models.The Czechs have their own way of doing things that does not seem to have any logic to it.When you get to know whats going on it is easier to understand.I once had a non functioning starter solenoid because the wiper motor brushes had stuck causing the fuse to blow,which was shared by the feed to the solenoid!

Thanks Crystal man,

I just got back from working on it. What a mess.... It looks like he or the previous owner had a bit of a "melt - down". Spent several hours just replacing wires that had melted bare...

I just bought a regular "universal" 30 amp ignition switch and put everything onto the "on" terminal. He wanted me to leave the push button start instead of using the crank position of the ignition.

Still can't figure out which wire connects to the work light in the rear but everything else seems to be working (except the horn).

Ran out of daylight so it will have to wait for another weekend.

Oh yeah, his air compressor doesn't seem to work either... I think this is going to turn into a PROJECT!

Thanks for your help.

Yes,

When you buy a Zetor,

First: do all electricity yourself and better (fuce box, more relays, wiring, etch....) ???

Second: replace all hoses ???

3rd: replace fuel pump and all rubber seals. ???

4th: replace hyrdaulic pump in each 4000 hours 69)

5th: Just run 12000 hours without more problems

Thats why Zetor is 20% cheaper than other tractor are, You must replace 20 of parts...

But still There is no expensive problems at all, and those are quite a common problem in another tractors

People always fiddle with Zetor wiring-they can't seem to resist it.My 10045 is pretty good apart from a non genuine flasher which will not work trailer lights.My 6748 only has one functioning electrical device-the starter button so it is pretty fool proof!
To get the air compressor to work you have to lift up the "r" shaped lever before the main lever will engage.It may take a couple of goes to get the gears to mesh-do it with the engine off it's definately non-synchromesh!!!!!

I usually engage the compressor with the engine running as slow as possible: 300 rpm or so. (taka taka ) Lots of times gear cams are matched equally so they dont slide into each other at standstill..