question Just bought a Zetor 6341.Super ... Some questions?

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zipperno

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Zipperno

• Apr 6, 2015

• #1

Hi

Just bought a 2002 Zetor 6341 Super with Trima loader. Just above 4000 hours.
I hasnt been very well taken care of, but mechanically it Works.
Both rear plastic fenders are cracked and parts missing. There is also a crack in the roof. But the tractor Works fine, engine sounds good, electrics Works, there is some rust on bolts and lines under. I think it has been used on salty roads.


Some questions:
- I have a knocking noise(tick, tick) from the compressor. I know it has someting to do with the compressor since it goes away when the compressor stops. So If I use the brakes (uses air) It starts and the tick,tick starts again.

- The throttle pedal/handle isnt working Perfect. It is difficult to find the correct rpm spot, it moves all over the Place. And when stopping I have to raise the foot pedal also.
Should there be a spring at the pump for the lever? It hangs a spring thats loose on one side.

//Tom

 

Renze

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• Apr 6, 2015

• #2

A working compressor allways makes a pulsing sound. And indeed, mostly there is a spring that pulls the throttle back at the pump. Lubricating the throttle pivots is also a good idea.

 

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zipperno

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• Apr 6, 2015

• #3

Thanks, but im not sure this is the sound a compressor should make. It sounds almost like the engine has a bad lifter...

I will try to make a video so you can hear.

Could someone with a 6341 tell me where the spring on the pump-lever goes?It doesnt show the spring in the parts manual.

 

Renze

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• Apr 7, 2015

• #4

Dont know if there SHOULD be a spring at the pump, but on many used tractors there was one...

 

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forterra9641

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forterra11441

• Apr 7, 2015

• #5

Dont know if there SHOULD be a spring at the pump, but on many used tractors there was one...

Click to expand...

yes they are delivered originally With spring on pump. it was hooked on behind the ball joint and on the other end to a piece of shhet metal fixed behind one of the bolts on front of compressor or on the back 15 yers or so since i dealt With these tractors som memory on exact fixation point is blurry. the sound of compressor is normal and you only hear it when it charges air to tank not when it idles.

 

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zipperno

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• Apr 7, 2015

• #6

Thanks guys.

Had a friend listen to the tick,tick sound and he said its normal.

I now know where the springs goes. Just have to get another one since its broken.


Heres the video of the compressor sound. When the compressor stops it goes away.


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7BI7yiEa5kw

 

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forterra9641

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forterra11441

• Apr 9, 2015

• #7

exactly how it should sound. nothing wrong there.

 

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zipperno

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• Apr 9, 2015

• #8

Thanks!

Is there any service I need to do to the compressor?

Im doing a full service on the tractor
- engine oil and filter
- hydraulic oil and filter. 60liters of universal 10-30 oil enough?
- airfilter
- brake fluid change
- checking level in portals and front axle. 80w-90 is the correct oil?

Anything else I need to do?

//Tom

 

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forterra9641

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• Apr 9, 2015

• #9

dont use universal oil in gearbox. i use a castrol oil called castrol agri powertrans. because of the wet brakes. dealer told me this. not 80w90. you must use an oil With LS quality because of the differential brake system. the agri powertrans mentioned above is also usable in this front axle both in hubs and center. there are also wet brakes in front axle hubs so you must use an oil for this purpose. CASTROL AGRI POWERTRANS can be used for all but engine on this tractor. no there is no service on the compressor its lubricated by the engine oil. Remeber to change the powersteering fluid to. it has a little filter inside the tank.

 

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zipperno

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• Apr 9, 2015

• #10

Thanks for Your advice and recommendation.

I thought tractor universal oil also worked with wet brakes?

I will check if its easy to get this Castrol oil and if its reasonable to buy.

Im also in Norway btw.

//Tom

 

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forterra9641

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forterra11441

• Apr 10, 2015

• #11

Da tar jeg svaret p Norsk. Castrol oljen br vre enkel skaffe. koster rundt 800 kr pr 20 liter kanne. det fine med den er at du kan bruke den p hele traktorn og den fyller alle spesifikasjona. oljeskift intervall e 600 tima p gir foraksel. Universalolje vart frarda bruk. Oljen treng ikke vr Castrol men den br mte samme spesifikasjoner som den har. Har hatt en 7341 sjl men bytta den inn i 2006. va en god smidig lettkjrt traktor. PS det gr 64 liter olje p gearkassen.

 

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zipperno

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• Apr 10, 2015

• #12

Prisen hres grei ut bare jeg finner den her oppe i Nord.

Takk for hjelpa slangt!



Finner bare en Castrol olje som heter: Agri Trans Plus 80W.

Denne:

http://www.castrol.com/no_no/norway/products/off-road/other-products/agri-trans-plus-80w.html

Sker jeg p Castrol Agri powertrans s finner jeg dette f.eks:

http://www.lubricantsonline.co.za/uploads/Agri%20Powertrans.pdf

Da sitter jeg igjen med at dette ER en slags universal olje, men fra Castrol. Men bra for Zetorn kan den nok vre.


//Tom

 

Last edited by a moderator: Feb 12, 2025

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forterra9641

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forterra11441

• Apr 10, 2015

• #13

sorry minnet som spille m et puss det e trans pluss den hete
gamle navnet va powertrans. det e den du ska ha litt merkelig at det str at det e en motorolje p nettsida. ska sjekk ka det st p kanna imrra

 

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zipperno

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• Apr 24, 2015

• #14

Just noticed that my 6341 has 12.4x 24 front Wheels?? According to the specs it should have 11.2x24.
How Dangerous is it to drive With them on? With 2wd it is safe but what about 4wd?

Rear Wheels are 16.9x30.

 

Renze

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• Apr 24, 2015

• #15

Use 4wd when required.

On paved surfaces one shouldnt use 4wd neither with 11.2-24 because it will wind up the driveline and cause undue stress. Normally the front wheels run 3% faster because of the weight difference between front and rear axle, and because the front axle makes a wider curve than the rear axle.

Use when the rears slip, dont use it when the surface gives enough traction to go without.

 

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zipperno

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• Apr 24, 2015

• #16

Use 4wd when required.

On paved surfaces one shouldnt use 4wd neither with 11.2-24 because it will wind up the driveline and cause undue stress. Normally the front wheels run 3% faster because of the weight difference between front and rear axle, and because the front axle makes a wider curve than the rear axle.

Use when the rears slip, dont use it when the surface gives enough traction to go without.

Click to expand...

Thanks! So no drama involved With slightly bigger tires? Also the fronts are almost weared down vs. the rears has a lot of thread left.




Also a clutch question about my old 7045.
Does it have a mechanical clutch? Couldnt find any fluid going to it. Just rods Connected to the side of the transmission.

My problem is when I press the pedal the linkage on the side of the transmission barely moves.

But when I started the tractor it wont move anywhere.

It has been sitting all Winter because of hydraulic overhaul.

Any advice?

 

Renze

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• Apr 24, 2015

• #17

I'm not sure what you're trying to say ??

 

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zipperno

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• Apr 24, 2015

• #18

Ok Renze. Old zetor 7045 parked 6 months ago.

I have done work to the hydraulic system. Changed pump, distributor, safety valve, overload valve etc.

Work done, filled up With 28 liters of oil.

Then I start the tractor and try to take off, but it wont move at all.

So Im thinking either the clutch is somhowe stuck.. Or?
Could it be someting else? Stuck in neutral....? Clutch suddenly bad?

 

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forterra9641

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forterra11441

• Apr 25, 2015

• #19

Hi low lever in neutral. if clutch was stuck you wouldent been able to get it in gir or stop if it was in gear. Because its not possible to be stuck clutch in off position if it worked when parked. take off the inspection hatc on the side of bellhousing and look inside to see whats going on.

 

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• Apr 26, 2015

• #20

I took off the inspection hatch, but couldnt see anything obvius was wrong. But I dont really know what to look for either.

Shot a video of what happens when I try to drive.


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9OzFWEMz4ew
I got it barely moving, but its like the clutch just barely engages.
And I know the clutch worked fine when I drove it to the shop last year.

Any ideas?

A piece of metal blocked the pedal so it wouldt release all the way. Removed it and clutch seems fine now.
On to the next problems...



Just a heads up on the 6341 plastic parts. They are easy to"weld" With acetone. It melts the plastic.

And they are expensive to buy New, Ive fixed and repaired missing parts and all cracks.