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leaky exhaust manifold
- Thread starter jay1972
- Start date
Hi there,it's unlikely that exhaust manifold gasket gone will cause loss of power or oil up the exhaust on non turbo engine such as yours, regarding oil coming from exhaust on your 6211 can be caused by a number of things. These engines like to be worked so if you're only doing light work or long periods of engine idling they can put oil up the exhaust, however a high hours or badly worn engine will also do this.But this problem coupled with a power loss sounds like you need a set of rings and possibly liners if they're scored from any overheating which may have occurred previously.Another telltale sign to worn rings and subsequent low compression is has it been getting harder to start as in taking more winding before firing. Best way to determine this is to get a compression test done.
Dozer..
Dozer..
thank you for the information..this tractor has been sitting for about 5yrs.i had to replace all the fuel lines and fuel return piping.it starts easy,however at full throtle it wont rev up like it should.i have to throtle down and let it idle for a few minutes then slowly throtle up before it will rev up.as this is happening ive got oil coming out the exhaust.do i just need to run it for awhile since it has been sitting or do you still think it is the rings ?
- Joined
- Jul 5, 2003
- Messages
- 4,019
- Location
- Laag Zuthem
- First name
- Renze
Machinery:
1976 5718
1978 5718 35kmh: Work in progress
1967 3011
Best cure for stuck piston rings due to standstill or extended use at low power:
take the injectors out and split a can of DOT4 brake fluid over all four cylinders. then let it sit for one or two weeks.
Then, cover the injector holes with a cloth and crank it. The piston speed will throw any excess brake fluid out through the injector holes, the cloth is to catch it, as brake fluid will eat its way through paint as well.
You need to make sure there isnt a lot of fluid above the piston anymore before cranking it, as fluid isnt compressible which could bend a piston rod. (phenomena called waterlocking by offroaders)
when the brake fluid is out, put the injectors back, start the engine and gently warm it up. Do not use it hard, as the brake fluid has seeped through, into the oil sump which neutralises the lubrication abilities of the oil (but cleans crankcase sludge real good)
Then change the oil, run it warm and make it work, give it h*ll.
The miracles claimed by slick50 and other crap you buy at a gas station, are made true by plain old brake fluid.
take the injectors out and split a can of DOT4 brake fluid over all four cylinders. then let it sit for one or two weeks.
Then, cover the injector holes with a cloth and crank it. The piston speed will throw any excess brake fluid out through the injector holes, the cloth is to catch it, as brake fluid will eat its way through paint as well.
You need to make sure there isnt a lot of fluid above the piston anymore before cranking it, as fluid isnt compressible which could bend a piston rod. (phenomena called waterlocking by offroaders)
when the brake fluid is out, put the injectors back, start the engine and gently warm it up. Do not use it hard, as the brake fluid has seeped through, into the oil sump which neutralises the lubrication abilities of the oil (but cleans crankcase sludge real good)
Then change the oil, run it warm and make it work, give it h*ll.
The miracles claimed by slick50 and other crap you buy at a gas station, are made true by plain old brake fluid.
- Joined
- Jul 5, 2003
- Messages
- 4,019
- Location
- Laag Zuthem
- First name
- Renze
Machinery:
1976 5718
1978 5718 35kmh: Work in progress
1967 3011
We traded a worn out Ursus C-385A (aka 8045 Crystal) and a 4712 for a 1986 5245 which had only 3700hrs and was never worked. When taking out slurry, it consumed a liter of oil a day, despite that we extended the crankcase breather upwards and plugged it partially with a piece of rockwool insulation. When i did a head gasket on the 5245 i had brake fluid on the pistons while the heads were at the rebuild shop.
Because we do the same work still, despite changing from 85hp to 50hp, the tractors oil consumption has lowered so that it doesnt need topping up between the oil changes once a year, about 300hrs. The 12 series engines are prone to ring problems because they were too wear resistant. The dealer told me that a guy from the importer would travel around dealers with a dynotester, to give the tractors h*ll for an hour or so, on special break-in oil.
The 4712 i have for trade, needs this treatment too, as it has been sitting for a couple of years. carbon deposits will react with oxygen and moisture, creating some kind of white stuff that makes the rings stick. You can burn it off the valves by working it hard, but in the ring grooves the temperatures arent high enough so brake fluid is the way to go.
Because we do the same work still, despite changing from 85hp to 50hp, the tractors oil consumption has lowered so that it doesnt need topping up between the oil changes once a year, about 300hrs. The 12 series engines are prone to ring problems because they were too wear resistant. The dealer told me that a guy from the importer would travel around dealers with a dynotester, to give the tractors h*ll for an hour or so, on special break-in oil.
The 4712 i have for trade, needs this treatment too, as it has been sitting for a couple of years. carbon deposits will react with oxygen and moisture, creating some kind of white stuff that makes the rings stick. You can burn it off the valves by working it hard, but in the ring grooves the temperatures arent high enough so brake fluid is the way to go.
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