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Newbie 5211 Clutch and Brake Problem

jhaltom

New member
Level 2
Joined
Apr 9, 2007
Messages
14
First name
Jeremy
My new-to-me 5211 tractor was delivered to me the other day and on my first drive around, it scared the crap out of me! I noticed the brakes weren't quite as 'authoritative' as I was expecting them to be. It took quite a bit of pressure on the pedal to get the tractor to grudgingly come to a stop.

After about 10 minutes or so of driving it around, I put the tractor into reverse to back it into my workshop. As I was backing it in, I suddenly couldn't stop the tractor! The brakes didn't do anything and when I stepped on the clutch, it didn't dis-engage the engine! I had to kill the engine so I didn't drive up over my shredder and through the back wall of my shop. I know from reading all the posts and looking through the workshop manual that the clutch and brakes use the same Master Cylinder. However, I would have thought that if the Master Cylinder went out, I would lose the operation of the clutch, not to have the clutch stick in the 'engaged' position. Am I wrong about this, or does anyone have any other ideas?

The tractor runs great, steers great, and seems to be pretty sound mechanically other than this one issue. I'm going to go ahead and order a new Master Cylinder since they seem pretty inexpensive and flush out the entire system with new fluid to see if that helps.
 
One of the worst things about Zetors is the quality of the rubber on brake and clutch seals.
The clutch will not disengage if there is a fault, it also shares the fluid reservoir with the brakes. the clutch is the small centre part of the res. tank.
read down this forun for more info.
Dave
 
Yes the master cylinder from brakes and clutch is the same type, but not the cause that both failed.

The cause is that either one failed, leaking away all of your brake fluid. Because both systems, brake and clutch, use the same reservoir, they both fail if there's no brake fluid left.
 
When I checked the brake fluid reservoir, it looked full. However, since I'm not 100% sure of the condition of the fluid, I'm going to do a complete fluid change and bleed of the system this weekend when I can get back out to my property. I'll check the system for leaks as well. Thanks for all your ideas!
 
I have a 1994 - 5211 - I just experienced the same problem. Upon removing the release bearing oiler cover plate, I discovered the release spring had broken. I have not broke the tractor into yet to see what else may have happened.
 
After breaking tractor into and pulling clutch found that one finger had broken on main clutch assembly, this broke one hung and in turn bent the other fingers. The spring came off the broken finger.

Now comes the task of locating a complete cllutch assembly for my tractor
 
I use Luk Clutches, good items, but if the pressure plates and friction discs are nor too worn why not just order the small bits from your Zetor dealer. much cheaper. If you do, make sure you order a replacement set of the "top hat"covers from the push rods as they regularly wear out. Mike ( ixer0) will be able to tell us what their proper name is, and comment I hope.
Dave
 
Hi Joe

I thought someone was talking about me, my ears were burning !! Dave has given you sound advice. When you change the fingers make sure you fit the heavy duty ones and the larger "BUTTRESS CAPS" (write it down Dave).
Part Nos: Levers - 7901 1181, Buttress Caps - 7901 1182.

Regards

Mike
 
Hey thanks for the information, it also sheered one of the thrust pins that the buttress caps fits on.

Being in the States, parts are scarce, looks like I have to deal with Zetor USA. Being a farmer they said I could buy direct.

Replacement parts for this 43 horsepower is more costly than my larger tractors.
 
Replacement parts for this 43 horsepower is more costly than my larger tractors.

This shouldn't be!

Zetor in the USA made some major changes to move to a direct sales model rather than through distribution.

Can anyone help with the supply of this clutch?
 
I have a long over due update on my problem!

I sold my house in 8 days (and was expecting it to take a few months at least), so I've been spending my time moving and doing all that fun stuff.

However, this last weekend I went and power-washed my tractor so I could find all the inspection plates and see what I was working with. After replacing the Clutch (and brake) Master Cylinders with new cylinders and oiling the clutch release bearing, I no longer have the 'stuck' clutch issue. Much, much safer tractor to drive now.

Thanks for all the responses! This forum is invaluable for those with Zetor tractors.
 
I do have one other question. I was going to start another thread, but this one I started with a brake question, so I'll keep it in this one.

I bled the brakes on the right tire using the bleed screw that is right next to the brake line on top of the axle. I think it helps to have a little bit of Houdini blood in you to get to the sucker, but now that tire is stopping as good as my Ford F-250 truck. However, on the left side tire, there is no bleed screw next to the brake line on top of the axle.

Is the bleed screw on the left side in a different place? Or, would be broken off? If it was broken off, then I would assume that it would be leaking brake fluid all over the place. Yet, I can pump the brake and actually get a little bit of firmness in the pedal (but I can tell there is still a ton of air in the line). Any ideas? The left side is even harder to get at then the right side. For something that is supposed to be done every 2 years per the owners guide, they sure made it hard to get to!
 
the bleed niples is placed in the same place on boht sides, so it seams that yours is broken of but as it seals on the inner tip you vont have any leaking, to replace it you most likli have to pull out the halfaksel, so you cold try to bleed it by losening the pipe itself
 
Thanks for the information!

I went and did some more checking and the bleed valve is definitely missing. Oh well, when I find someone to come out and replace the clutch (it's down to about 10% wear left), I'll have them fix this as well.


 
www.zetorna.com

then check for an email adress. Mostly Petr is willing to help .
 
Well after a couple months with mine down. We ordered a complete clutch assembly. Decided to put back together this weekend. All went fine, except after bleeding the clutch. The piston wants to go all the way out the cylinder. Never did feel the clutch engage.
Guess I will have to break it back into
Or I hope somebody has a tip to what I did wrong as why this is happening.
 
it goes all the way but you cant feel the clutch! odd! you have put the thrust bearing back in;) have you checked to see if the bearing is making contact with the clutch fingers??

gd luck
 

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