Replace metal hydralic line between bottom pump plate & 3 point hitch top plate

HI
Has anyone replaced the metal hydralic line located inside the rear differential that connects the internal pump plate at the bottom to the 3 point hitch plate at the top.
I was told that you need a special tool to flare the new tube once installed.Anyone have any experience with removing and installing this tube or know anything about the flaring tool.
THANKS

Maybe an answer that is no good in this case, but (gas-)plumbers do have a flaring tool for their copper tubes.

Just go to a local hydraulic pipe shop bring old steel pipe with you any half descent shop should have ends to suit

I just replaced said tube and you NEED the TOOL from Zetor to do the job.First you have to cut the old tube out then get the ends that are expanded into the diff housing out.I had to use an easyout to get the ends out finally.
Now you have to install the new tube which is NOT an easy job.You have to bend an pry the steel tube as you try to feed it into place.Once you get it in place you now need the first part of the 3 stage Zetor tool.This part has a shoulder built into it which keeps the tube at the right depth in the diff housing while it EXPANDS and locks/seals the tube into the diff housing.It EXPANDS the tube from the inside .The expansion locks the tube in place and makes a pressure tight SEAL of the tube into the housing.Now you take part 2 of the tool and flare the tube at both ends inside the housing,then take part 3 of the tool and tap the flare down to level it out and create a level spot for the nipples with the 2 o-rings to sit on.If you did it right the nipples will sit in there properly and make the seal between the diff housing and the pump plate on the bottom and the diff housing and the 3 point hitch plate on the top.While installing the tube be sure that the tube DOESN"T touch the rivet heads on the back side of the main drive gear in the diff.The FIT IS VERY TIGHT and leaves only about 1/8 of an inch between them.