question Technical questions around a Zetor 7340 Turbo

[ZetCo24]

Hello.
On your TURBO how long low oil pressure light stays on after start, how long does it take to turn off ?Do you think around 4 seconds is too long, not normal, bad? Will it turn on if you lower your idle in low range, for example less than 500rpm?

 

[Joachim]

I think its normal, after a night or more engine off.
So, I start first 3 seconds with gas throttle off, then second start is with gas on 700 upm. I think its better for turbo, or better I hope so.

 

[ZetCo24]

I think its normal, after a night or more engine off.
So, I start first 3 seconds with gas throttle off, then second start is with gas on 700 upm. I think its better for turbo, or better I hope so.

Thanks. That method seems logical and proper way of starting, I also never pull gas lever all the way up(full throttle) like manual says to do.
I try to put it somewhere between 1200-1500 and immediately lower it to 700-800 after the start.

On second start you can start it with the lever at 700rpm?it won't struggle to start or even not start at that low gas?

 

[Joachim]

I forgot - this method also works at -10 °C as a cold start. No high revs when starting and therefore no low oil pressure and no lubricating film breakage at low oil temperatures.

The other method with automatic cold start lets the engine rev up immediately with cold oil and low oil pressure (risk of insufficient lubrication or lubricating film breakage) - I think that's not so good for the engine.

Unfortunately, full throttle is required for the automatic cold start. But with my method, the start should work even in cold temperatures without the automatic cold start.

 

[ZetCo24]

Have same leak on one of valve covers, the rest are dry but one is wet like on your photo(4th, by the firewall).Tried to tighten the bolt on cover but no luck, still wets. Have you solved this problem and how?

 

[Joachim]

Tried to tighten the bolt on cover but no luck, still wets. Have you solved this problem and how?

Be careful, the lid is made of aluminum and can break if you tighten it too much.

Replace the rubber seal under the lid. And then put a USIT ring under the cap nut at the top and you'll be fine.

 

[ZetCo24]

Be careful, the lid is made of aluminum and can break if you tighten it too much.

Replace the rubber seal under the lid. And then put a USIT ring under the cap nut at the top and you'll be fine.

I looked in the torque specs(40-47 Nm),that's why I was very careful not to damage it.I hope so.
You did it like that, fixed leak completely?
Torque spec?same as before?

Factory installation was just cap and cap nut, no seal, gasket, rtv?

 

[Joachim]

the torque specs(40-47 Nm)

How do you find this specs - lloks much to high for me and for a M8 nut with a 8.8 grade.
I thinks it is more like 25 to 27 Nm.
47 Nm is for 12.9 grade screws and 41 for 10.9 grade one.

You did it like that, fixed leak completely?

Often at many Zetors and not only my own one.

Torque spec?same as before?

No, mostly more by feelings - for M8 screws.
But if with torque then with 25 Nm...

Factory installation was just cap and cap nut, no seal, gasket, rtv?

Yes - you can see it in spare parts catalogue too. Seeling, cab, nut.
But with a USIT ring like the 78.800.108 ( type BS612 in 13,0 x 8,7 x 1,0 for M8 screw in FKM 80 shore) under the nut its much better to have it dry.

 

[ZetCo24]

From John Deere manual for models 2000 to 2400.Those were JD branded Zetor tractors(green instead red).

OK, thanks, I'm definitely taking your advice. USIT specs and data are big help , that makes a job whole lot quicker.

 

[Joachim]

very interesting...

Can you send me the complete manual as a pdf file or so?
never seen bevore a Zetor /John Deere manual and I think it can be helpfull in our archive.

 

[Joachim]

Edit: found it by self:

Search for Equipment Publications - Technical Information Store

techpubs.deere.com

Search for "2000, 2100, 2200, 2300, 2400"
its in english and free for download as a pdf

 

[international]

Thanks. That method seems logical and proper way of starting, I also never pull gas lever all the way up(full throttle) like manual says to do.
I try to put it somewhere between 1200-1500 and immediately lower it to 700-800 after the start.

On second start you can start it with the lever at 700rpm?it won't struggle to start or even not start at that low gas?

you could put in a high speed starter on the series before that model we used to put the hydraulics in neutral so less turning over when starting but maybe the hydraulic pump is on the side of the engine on that model and one can not disengage the hydraulics when starting

 

[Joachim]

I've separated the topic from my introduction topic - it doesn't really have anything to do with my Zetor 7340.

Yes, you could also install a gearbox starter, which turns faster, but also with more power and requires less power.
But - if the starter ring is already damaged, the gearbox starter could damage it permanently. The gearbox starter also only masks the actual problem. My opinion and experience.

If it no longer starts properly with the standard starter, you should get to the bottom of the problem and fix it.
Otherwise it's like a cold - a tissue or nasal spray relieves the symptoms, but they don't get rid of the cold.



By the way, at 1200 - 1500 you don't gain anything because the engine still revs up and the automatic cold start doesn't even work.
So I think there are 3 possible ways to start:

Cold start
- Option 1 see manual
- Option 2 as I described above (if the tractor is OK, the gentler method)

Warm start
set the hand throttle to around 750 rpm, start, done.



Switching off the hydraulic pump is the recommended way (manual) and also the best. The Zetor 7340 Economic still has the pump in the traditional way at the back under the differential gear and this can be switched off.
The "normal" Zetor 7340 has the pump on the side of the engine and this can also be switched off on the 3320 to 7341 Super Turbo.

However - from Proxima onwards it can no longer be switched off and it still works. So you can decide which way you want to choose.
The starter obviously has it easier when the pump is off. Especially if, for example, the lifting gear was up when the vehicle was parked, but then sank and the starter would have to raise the lifting gear when starting...