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- Apr 11, 2010
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- 1
- First name
- VON
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turbocharging
- Thread starter vondracula
- Start date
- Joined
- Jul 5, 2003
- Messages
- 4,021
- Location
- Laag Zuthem
- First name
- Renze
Machinery:
1976 5718
1978 5718 35kmh: Work in progress
1967 3011
Get a turbo from an engine with equal air displacement: 3.5 liter x 2200 rpm equals about 1.8 0r 1.9 liter at 4400rpm
I have no experience, but my bet would be a turbo from a VW 1.9TDI.
When the turbo is too big, it will lag for seconds. When its too small, it will be blown over its max revs and throw the vanes of the rotor. Also the exhaust heat will toast a too small turbo.
I have no experience, but my bet would be a turbo from a VW 1.9TDI.
When the turbo is too big, it will lag for seconds. When its too small, it will be blown over its max revs and throw the vanes of the rotor. Also the exhaust heat will toast a too small turbo.
HI, Im from Slovakia
My Zetor 7245 got Turbo from AVIA - A75 Intercooler before year and half....Its steal run very nice, more power in high RPM and less fuel it cost ....Im new here but if you have som problems with Fuel pump, injectors, or anything on tractor you can ask me.
Im repairing fuel pumps, injectors and engines for Zetor
- Joined
- Oct 25, 2004
- Messages
- 47
- First name
- darylat8750
I put a turbo off a wreaked skid loader on my 4341 with good results. I think total volume of air needed is related to horsepower desired. The problem with most car type turbos is that they are so concerned with response that they have smaller turbine sections (high rpm and back pressure) than is desired in our applications. Anytime we are expecting the need of power the rpm is up high enough to have plenty of gas flow when the fuel starts pouring in. Even going into a big snow drift with the snow thrower the turbo spools up very quickly. The turbo that I put on my 60 horsepower rated tractor was off a diesel rated at 75 horse power. I live at an elevation of 8800 ft so my 60 rated hp tractor was only making around 40 hp. Without adding fuel my best guess is that I increased hp by around 50% and may have doubled torque for a 100% increase. In my case the engine was needing more air so badly that the exhaust gas temps. actually decreased under heavy load. I did not turn up the fuel as I had concern about the reliability of the exhaust valves. If you find the thread on my build there should be a link to some pictures.
While the turbo can be put on without removing the heads, if you want to really make MORE power you should consider replacing the exhaust valves with valves made for turbo charging. A friend of mine who has the enviable job of breaking new tractors to see what breaks first says that usually the heads of the exhaust valves go first (as in come off the valve stem) with the expected expensive results. An exhaust gas temp. gauge is your best defense against expensive noises. With the better valves you can turn up the "happy screw" and put in more fuel= more power. If you remove the heads you can spend a little time with a die grinder and match up the intake and exhaust ports to the manifolds. This can make a noticeable increase in power with no increase in fuel flow.
While the turbo can be put on without removing the heads, if you want to really make MORE power you should consider replacing the exhaust valves with valves made for turbo charging. A friend of mine who has the enviable job of breaking new tractors to see what breaks first says that usually the heads of the exhaust valves go first (as in come off the valve stem) with the expected expensive results. An exhaust gas temp. gauge is your best defense against expensive noises. With the better valves you can turn up the "happy screw" and put in more fuel= more power. If you remove the heads you can spend a little time with a die grinder and match up the intake and exhaust ports to the manifolds. This can make a noticeable increase in power with no increase in fuel flow.