Zetor 3545

[stuzetor]

Hello all Zetor fans.I have just brought a 1972 Zetor 3545 4wd .I am hoping to carry out some repairs and service work on it over the next few months.Im sure i will be asking for lots of helpful advice to bring the tractor back to good health.
My first concern is the front axle / differential housing.I noticed where the pivot pin goes through the housing a piece of casting is broken off (i dont have the broken piece otherwise i would of welded it back on ).Any ideas on how to repair it or is a good,used differential housing the only way to go ??.

 

[Renze]

if you had a piece of heavy wall pipe you could also weld a piece of mild steel on. Its just as difficult to weld as cast steel on cast steel.

I once welded a top link bracket of a 2011. ground a big vee, then welded a centimeter at a time, then stress-peened the still hot weld with a slag hammer from the stick welder era, then wait a minute before welding another centimeter.

That was on a hot summer day, and taking a sip of a beer while waiting for the weld to cool down between passes, is a great way to bring up the required patience between welds.

A used diff housing for a 3545 would be allmost impossible to find, or you pay for the rest of the tractor too.

 

[stuzetor]

Thankyou Renze.I am confident it can be welded and repaired ok.The engine does not start easily and i have a problem with the diesel fuel injection pump.When i press the excess fuel button in it just comes back out again.I have set the throttle lever to half throttle as it tells me to do in my owners manual .Maybe the pump needs an overhaul as when the engine is idling the revs creep up higher so i have to hold the throttle lever down again.I guess the two problems are related ??.Thanks again for your help .

 

[Renze]

Flush and relube the fuel pump.

 

[stuzetor]

I will do as you say Renze .One more question regarding the fuel pump........what is the correct position to mount the throttle lever onto the shaft which goes into the pump ? I see it has a small pinch bolt which clamps it on the shaft and im sure mine is not in the correct place as the lever does not move the full travel.This may be why my excess fuel button does not stay in ??.

 

[Renze]

The cold start button doesnt stay in because the controlrod doesnt move all the way to its end stop (which is the coldstart button, pushing the button only allows the control rod end to fall into a recess in the button, allowing it to move further and thereby increasing start fuel) get the fuel pump freed up (if necessary search other threads in this forum about it) before worrying about the cold start.

To check ifyour crank position is right, takethe pullrod off and turn it by hand to see if that makes a difference