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question Zetor 4340 clutch problem
- Thread starter fbeningo
- Start date
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- Jul 5, 2003
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- 4,061
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- Laag Zuthem
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- Renze
- Machinery:
- 1976 5718
1978 5718 35kmh: Work in progress
1967 3011
The cause is probably a leaking master cylinder.
Zetor used to put PAL cylindres on it, those were rubbish.
Then they put it out to a Danish company, those werent much better.
Finally, they were statisfied with the quality of the cylinders supplied by Fragokov of Slovakia.
New cylinders will cost you about 30 Euro, and they are easy to change.
Zetor used to put PAL cylindres on it, those were rubbish.
Then they put it out to a Danish company, those werent much better.
Finally, they were statisfied with the quality of the cylinders supplied by Fragokov of Slovakia.
New cylinders will cost you about 30 Euro, and they are easy to change.
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- Renze
- Machinery:
- 1976 5718
1978 5718 35kmh: Work in progress
1967 3011
If you loosen the four bolts on each pedal, you can inspect the master cylinder. If it looks greasy all around, you're sure it's the bad boy.
You should also check the slavecylinder of clutch for leak. On my 6245 I had to change that one. Now I have changed the clutch master cylinder on my 6341 -98. It started to leak a little for about one year ago but in the last summer it was much better, but now when the weather was cold it was leaking a lot. Maybe the rubber seals did not like when it is about -10.
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1978 5718 35kmh: Work in progress
1967 3011
Yes slave cylinders may go leaking too, but the master cylinders would leak 8 out of 10 times..
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1978 5718 35kmh: Work in progress
1967 3011
The style of build is exactly the same.
It's on the inside, the later Fragokov ones have a wear resistant surface coating on the liner surface.
On the outside, you can just see the letters in the casting.
PAL or Fragokov. I dont know the name of the Danish stuff..
It's on the inside, the later Fragokov ones have a wear resistant surface coating on the liner surface.
On the outside, you can just see the letters in the casting.
PAL or Fragokov. I dont know the name of the Danish stuff..
S
Saskatchewan
Guest
Interesting:
It is -40C today here (it gets cold here in Canada) and I have just experienced the same problem with mine.
Reading that you have already done this, where would I find the bleed valve? I know where the reservoir is as I have added some fluid in the fall - now I know why the level was down.
It is -40C today here (it gets cold here in Canada) and I have just experienced the same problem with mine.
Reading that you have already done this, where would I find the bleed valve? I know where the reservoir is as I have added some fluid in the fall - now I know why the level was down.
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- 1976 5718
1978 5718 35kmh: Work in progress
1967 3011
Be careful with the bleed valve, if you break it off, you will have to pull the final drives off.
On my Zetor 4340 you can access the slavecylinder through a panel on the floor just below the windshield washer reservoir. There are two bolts holding the panel in place. The cylinder is within arms reach. The bleeder is 9mm. It's a tight spot to get your hand and wrench into but I was able to get about 1/8 of a turn on the bleeder and it was sufficient. good luck.
Well I was wrong about the dealer where my tractor was puchased. I met him today for the first time, since I got the tractor second hand, and he was very helpful. But another question. I have had to bleed the clutch several times and even twice in an hour. I picked up a master cylinder today and started looking to replace the old one. I removed of the four bolts the top left without issue but the bottom left just seems to spin. Is there a nut on the back side I need to get a wrench on and if so how do I get to it? Do I have to remove the entire cover over the steering wheel? It is very cold here in Northern Michigan lately -10 to -20F and lots of snow 97" so far this winter. Any imput would help shorten my time wrenching in the cold. Thank You.
G
gw
Guest
NO. if you open the bonnet there is a large panel down the front of the cab. if you remove the four bolts (9-10mm) you should be able to slide the panel up. There may be another metal panel on the bonnet (just behind the reservoir) which you could remove if you cant see in.. You will see the clutch fluid pipes and the bolt/nut on the back of the slave cylinder your trying to get at!
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1978 5718 35kmh: Work in progress
1967 3011
I was talking about bleeding the BRAKE slave cylinders...
It's correct that the clutch slave cylinder is aside of the clutch housing of course..
It's correct that the clutch slave cylinder is aside of the clutch housing of course..
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- Steve
Don't open the bleed screws too far or you will never get all the air out as the master cylinder only pumps a tiny amount of fluid.In the UK I have found those one man bleeders with a ball valve on the end of the pipe to be very good for one man bleeding.Classic car people sell them.I am also using silicone brake fluid as it doen't absorb moisture.It seems to be OK and I have never had problems-despite the scare stories.It was invented for the US Military so that one fluid could be used whether the vehicle was operating in the Artic Circle or the Desert.My Crystal gets used on slurry spreading and I used to have problems with the slave cylinders corroding when the Rubber dust caps perished.When I put new seals on I used two plastic lids from 500 ml gear oil bottles as a cover over the rubber dust seal and have had no more problems!!
S
Saskatchewan
Guest
Thanks for all the info - it was a big help !
My clutch problem was the slave cylinder on the trans housing - more specifically the rubber seal/cuff on the internal piston in the cylinder. The piston slips out the bottom of the slave cylinder (just disengage the cylinder from the clutch arm and depress the clutch pedal). Once the piston is out a new rubber seal ring/cuff for $5 solves the problem (along with a complete beed of the clutch brake system after everyting is put back together).
It looks like the friction from the unlubricated side of the cylinder eroded the rubber seal over time. This time I lubricated the end of the cylinder(the end not exposed to brake fluid) with a little grease to reduce the friction when the piston is forced down the cylinder.
This was a much easier fix than I was anticipating. It took all of 1/2 hour after I figured out the actual problem. Thanks for helpfull discussion for everyone!
My clutch problem was the slave cylinder on the trans housing - more specifically the rubber seal/cuff on the internal piston in the cylinder. The piston slips out the bottom of the slave cylinder (just disengage the cylinder from the clutch arm and depress the clutch pedal). Once the piston is out a new rubber seal ring/cuff for $5 solves the problem (along with a complete beed of the clutch brake system after everyting is put back together).
It looks like the friction from the unlubricated side of the cylinder eroded the rubber seal over time. This time I lubricated the end of the cylinder(the end not exposed to brake fluid) with a little grease to reduce the friction when the piston is forced down the cylinder.
This was a much easier fix than I was anticipating. It took all of 1/2 hour after I figured out the actual problem. Thanks for helpfull discussion for everyone!
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