zetor 4718

[clarke]

hi folks i recently done a job for a neighbour and payment was a sad looking zetor 4718 after a steam clean and new fuel i have got her started however i was looking for advice on a few things
1,does this tractor have a cold starting aid
2,when i go through the gears they all work except 4th which does nothing is there any thing i can check
3, are parts available ie slave cylinders,clutch etc
any help would be appreciated clarke

 

[stinkyhinksy]

glad you got it going. All parts available and cheap. i use roy perfect
but there are loads of other equally good suppliers.

Cold start is on the left hand side of the tractor if you are sitting down. it is on the side of the fuel pump near to the compressor.
there is 1"aprx pipe with 3 nuts on it. On this pipe there is a button which you press in once you have turned the hand throttle to full revs. if you can not see this button the pipe may have turned round accidently. just get a 22 mil spanner and turn it back again.
good luck, mark

 

[clarke]

glad you got it going. All parts available and cheap. i use roy perfect
but there are loads of other equally good suppliers.

Cold start is on the left hand side of the tractor if you are sitting down. it is on the side of the fuel pump near to the compressor.
there is 1"aprx pipe with 3 nuts on it. On this pipe there is a button which you press in once you have turned the hand throttle to full revs. if you can not see this button the pipe may have turned round accidently. just get a 22 mil spanner and turn it back again.
good luck, mark

the 22mill nut you mention is slack ie half of the threads are showing should that be screwed right in and also the wee button looks siezed can that be freed with loose oil as for the tractor she was for the scrap heap but i thought it was worth saving the owner has been scrapping tractors all week and i have been loading them he has scrapped 3 leylands 1 international and about 4 majors i have been stripping bits of the majors wherever possible as i run 3 or 4 of them if anyone has any idea what the gear fault might be i would be gratefull

 

[stinkyhinksy]

if you can not free it, turn the cylinder round and drill a hole in the rear opposite the cold start button, then push it out. mine was
seized in and this worked fine. It is on this forum somewhere.
I think the gap between the nuts affects the cold start. One nut seems to be a lock nut. i had trouble starting my 6748 so i made the gap smaller by moving the centre nut towards the outside nut. works fine now. this may have been just lucky. i think this is also on here somewhere, but is not explained properly. i just tried it myself.

mark

 

[clarke]

hi folks all the button needed was a small hit with a pin to free it and i now have an easy starting 4718 there was a small drip of oil coming from exhaust but after a bit of work on our generator it is running a bit cleaner so the next thing i would like to do is remove gearbox top cover and inspect gearbox does anybody have any pointers as to the best way of doing this i guess i remove gearstick then selector then it is just a case of unbolting lid however i was wondering if there is more to it than that

 

[stinkyhinksy]

you can try adjusting one of the 5 nuts on top of the housing in front of the speed selector/hydraulic selector that is in front of you when sittiing down. i do not know which one adjusts the 4 gear.
otherwise it should be quite straight forward to take everything apart and put it back together...i have never done it but there are plenty on hear who have.


speak up and contribute

 

[zetor3545]

youll see just under the seat on top of the gearbox lid there is 4 bolts in a line. they aernt bolts take the tops off and remove the springs and the metal balls. once you get these out . easy job to get gearbox lid off.

matt

 

[stinkyhinksy]

we can only keep the site going by contributing. nice one mathew

 

[clarke]

thanks for the info i will look into the gearbox the next time i have some time and post my findings

 

[clarke]

well folks i removed cover from the top of the gearbox and kind of wish i hadn't on the top shaft which i guess is the main shaft, fourth gear is near the front and meant to be held in place with two circlips one of these is missing so fourth gear is just floating i dont know wether i can place a new circlip over shaft without splitting gearbox that is first problem however there is worse when circlip has vanished it has went between 2nd and 3rd gears chipping teeth on three cogs wether she will run long term with these chips i dont know it looks like she might be going to the great scrap yard in the sky after all. What is involved in a full gearbox stripdown and would they parts be available in a breakers yard somewhere any advice or encouragement would be a big help cheers

 

[zetor3545]

chances are shell be fine with the chipped gear. i know its not ideal but itll be fine. as for the circlip gonna be a hell of a job to stretch one around the lay shaft! how big a circlip isit?

not much of a job to split it and go in from the front if you have a good mechanical mind

matt

 

[Renze]

A full gearbox stripdown takes a full week, including making your own expanding pullers.

My 3011 (with the same gearwheels as a 471 missed two teeth, probably because of a broken shift fork. With just some chipped teeth, dont worry it will run fine for years. As long as you dont hear the gearbox tick, there is nothing to worry about.

My brothers 6718 missed a circlip of 4th gear. We had to strip the front part (most easy part, without requiring special tools) to get it tight and shimmed the play out of it to make up for 9800hrs of wear.

Is it chipped on the upper or lower shaft ?

 

[clarke]

hi folks had time to look at gearbox again and can see chips on 2nd and third gears both top and bottom i think i see how you could draw front part of input shaft off after splitting tractor but the circlip is missing behind fourth gear and fifth gear on the bottom shaft would be in road to remove fourth gear off input shaftallowing me to put new circlip on shaft it looks like i would need to split gearbox from backend and remove the back section of input shaft has anybody any experience of doing this and is it as simple as i think my friend says i should position fourth gear in place and then weld the shim washer to the shaft to hold it in place bolt on lid and forget about it again has anyone any opinion on this

 

[Renze]

4th gear is quite easily accessible from the front.
Remove the figure 8 bearing plate, that holds the front transmisison bearings as well as the clutch throwout bearing. Then take the PTO shaft out, cant remember front or backside. Then you can take the 5th gear out including the clutch shaft. When you're there, you should be able to take out the entire upper shaft from the top.

My description might not be 100% in chronological order, but you only need to split it at the clutch housing, and remove the upper gearbox cover.

 

[clarke]

well folks patched up gearbox by splitting circlip and welding it to shim beside gear today and got the girl going however on her test run topping grass she has seized her engine and now is going to tractor heaven thank you for the help and advice on this forum and if i happen on another sad looking zetor i know where to come for advice cheers