question Zetor 5718 repairs

[ludvig]

Hello, I recently bought my first own tractor a Zetor 5718 which I am going to repaint and fix. From the 4 hour drive home I find it to be a lovely tractor, nice that it has a suspended front axle too. Going to be used for getting rid of snow and some lighter work like a hay rake and a tedder. I thought I'd register on a forum if I needed to ask any questions, and I already have some


I've downloaded some spare parts catalogs of the internet and I can't really seem to find the right seat, I kind of wanted to have the original seats and not buy a different one but the old seat is not really in great shape. Also from the instruction book it says there should be bolts to lock the front axle suspension for doing work with a front loader, what do these look like? Are they just normal bolts? I can't seem to find any in the toolbox so I assume they are gone.

 

[Joachim]

Hello and welcome Ludvig!

Your seat is not an original seat but a third-party seat (accessory). Therefore, you will not find it in any Zetor spare parts catalog.
The original seats looked like this:



The first is a simple bucket seat. Mechanically sprung and with friction disc dampers.
The second is the Aerolastic comfort seat (optional). This is hydraulically dampened and also has an air cushion under the seat.
The Aerolastic seat is much more comfortable than the bucket seat.

Also from the instruction book it says there should be bolts to lock the front axle suspension for doing work with a front loader, what do these look like? Are they just normal bolts?

Behind the 4 covers (2 screws, 2 covers on each side of the axle, i.e. one cover from the front and one from the back) you can lock the front axle using the 4 locking bolts - you should definitely do this if you are using a front loader. Otherwise the spiral springs in the axle will break relatively quickly, as they were not designed for such a load (such a weight).

Die Bolzen schauen so aus:

If the springs are already tired, it may be necessary to relieve the front axle for assembly or disassembly in order to have the support ring in the middle of the opening.


The bolt has the part number 55113636 (4x) and is manufactured with great precision and is also hardened. On one side there is an internal thread in a blind hole so that the bolt can be removed again.

The rubber (55113637, 4x) is designed to ensure that the locking pin is always pressed tightly against the support ring of the lid. The lid is normally sealed with a paper seal to prevent water from getting in - but if you apply enough grease to it, you can do without the paper seal if you like.

 

[ludvig]

Hello and welcome Ludvig!

Your seat is not an original seat but a third-party seat (accessory). Therefore, you will not find it in any Zetor spare parts catalog.
The original seats looked like this:
View attachment 1817View attachment 1820

View attachment 1818 View attachment 1821
The first is a simple bucket seat. Mechanically sprung and with friction disc dampers.
The second is the Aerolastic comfort seat (optional). This is hydraulically dampened and also has an air cushion under the seat.
The Aerolastic seat is much more comfortable than the bucket seat.



View attachment 1822
Behind the 4 covers (2 screws, 2 covers on each side of the axle, i.e. one cover from the front and one from the back) you can lock the front axle using the 4 locking bolts - you should definitely do this if you are using a front loader. Otherwise the spiral springs in the axle will break relatively quickly, as they were not designed for such a load (such a weight).

Die Bolzen schauen so aus:
View attachment 1823 View attachment 1827 View attachment 1824 View attachment 1825 View attachment 1826
If the springs are already tired, it may be necessary to relieve the front axle for assembly or disassembly in order to have the support ring in the middle of the opening.

View attachment 1828View attachment 1829
The bolt has the part number 55113636 and is manufactured with great precision and is also hardened. On one side there is an internal thread in a blind hole so that the bolt can be removed again.
View attachment 1830
The rubber (55113637) is designed to ensure that the locking pin is always pressed tightly against the support ring of the lid. The lid is normally sealed with a paper seal to prevent water from getting in - but if you apply enough grease to it, you can do without the paper seal if you like.

Thanks for the reply! That explains why I couldn't find that seat in a spare parts catalog, I guess I'll have to fix the issue with the seat some other way. It's odd since if I google adverts for these tractors on sale in Sweden they all seem to have this seat so it must be something they mounted to the tractors here locally in Sweden I assume. Thanks for the part number for the bolt I'll have to order some of those, the previous owner said he hadn't used the front loader that much so hopefully the springs aren't too worn out. But first off I'll have to fix the massive crack in the front loader before it does any front loader work .

 

[Joachim]

You can try to ask Oy Moto-Check Ab at www.motocheck.fi

 

[ludvig]

I don't know if I should continue this thread or make a separate one but I have a question regarding this tractor. I am changing the plastic cover on the top of the "spindle" and the rubber boot at the bottom and I noticed that the entire "spindle", "axle" or "pin" or whatever I should call it has a little bit of play, I assume that there is a bushing inside where the spring is that is probably a little bit worn. It's very slight but I assume I'll have to change it in the future especially as I will be using a front loader so the front axle will have more wear.

I guess I would have to take apart the spring to do this but I don't know how I would do that safely without getting a massive spring right in my face, do I just lock the springs in place with the locking bolts? Maybe I'm not reading the workshop manual right but I can't really see any way that describes how to safely remove the springs.

Also how urgent is it to change these bushings? The play is very very slight but I would still like to change it but maybe I don't have to immediately change them.

Another question I have is is there a good way to take apart the centrifugal oil filter? I managed to take it apart already but it was kind of hard to do so I assume there is a better way. The issue I had was trying to remove the 32 mm nut on the top of the filter which liked to just spin the entire filter. I ended up taking a 10 mm socket and holding it against the small nozzles or whatever they are on the top of the filter then holding that against the engine block to take off the nut but it was a bit challenging, I assume theres a better way to do this.

 

[Joachim]

First loosen the large nut on top of the steering arm and then loosen the steering arm itself.
First you need a tool similar like this (this one here is an original one):


But leave the nut on the thread!

Then prepare the tractor under the front axle for jacking up, but don't jack it up yet, just prepare it with squared timbers or a support stand.
Then remove the wheel and place a jack under the steering knuckle pin and push it upwards, this relieves the load on the screw connection at the bottom of the steering knuckle housing.


You can now loosen and remove this.
Then slowly lower the jack so that the front axle is sitting on the prepared support stand. Now take the jack completely away and remove the large nut on top of the steering lever. Now everything more or less "falls apart"... it's actually quite simple to build.

If in doubt, you should change the bushings - your front loader puts a lot of strain on the axle and all the bearings on the front axle should always be kept in very good condition. Don't forget the axial ball bearing, I would definitely replace that, but with a branded bearing (SKF, INA, SLAVIA, ZKL/ZVL).

Some pictures around this...




Remount:









You should made this also new:

 

[ludvig]

First loosen the large nut on top of the steering arm and then loosen the steering arm itself.
First you need a tool similar like this (this one here is an original one):

View attachment 1990 View attachment 1991
But leave the nut on the thread!

Then prepare the tractor under the front axle for jacking up, but don't jack it up yet, just prepare it with squared timbers or a support stand.
Then remove the wheel and place a jack under the steering knuckle pin and push it upwards, this relieves the load on the screw connection at the bottom of the steering knuckle housing.
View attachment 2012

You can now loosen and remove this.
Then slowly lower the jack so that the front axle is sitting on the prepared support stand. Now take the jack completely away and remove the large nut on top of the steering lever. Now everything more or less "falls apart"... it's actually quite simple to build.

If in doubt, you should change the bushings - your front loader puts a lot of strain on the axle and all the bearings on the front axle should always be kept in very good condition. Don't forget the axial ball bearing, I would definitely replace that, but with a branded bearing (SKF, INA, SLAVIA, ZKL/ZVL).

Some pictures around this...
View attachment 1992 View attachment 1993
View attachment 1994 View attachment 1995
View attachment 1996 View attachment 1997

Remount:
View attachment 2007
View attachment 1999 View attachment 2008
View attachment 2004 View attachment 2009
View attachment 2003 View attachment 2010
View attachment 2002 View attachment 2011
View attachment 2001
View attachment 2000
View attachment 1998

You should made this also new:
View attachment 2005 View attachment 2006

Thanks for the good instructions and photos of how to fix it

 

[ludvig]

Hello, I now have the parts for this and I am now reassembling it but I got a bit confused about this nut here which locks the bearing and the parts around it in place. In the workshop manual it says that the maximum clearance between the damping insert and the nut should be 0,5 mm. Is the optimal clearance none or is there supposed to be a little clearance? Right now I have just put the nut there so there is no clearance.


Another question I have is the big locking bolt which holds the thing together, how hard should I fasten it? Should I just do it by hand? To loosen it I just lightly tapped on it so I assume it shouldn't be fastened too hard.

 

[Joachim]

In the workshop manual it says that the maximum clearance between the damping insert and the nut should be 0,5 mm. Is the optimal clearance none or is there supposed to be a little clearance?

This does not mean "tightening" but rather just screwing it up to the rubber damper and then securing it with the wire lock to prevent it from twisting.

Another question I have is the big locking bolt which holds the thing together, how hard should I fasten it? Should I just do it by hand? To loosen it I just lightly tapped on it so I assume it shouldn't be fastened too hard.

Hard to describe. Just tighten normally, a little more like "hand-warm" and then the nut is also secured against twisting with the metal sheet that is screwed underneath.

 

[ludvig]

Hello again, I've finished the front axle by now and I've been working on repainting the tractor although sadly I got the color slightly wrong since somebody had painted it over with zetor beige earlier and I realised after having bought the paint that it was supposed to be gold beige metallic, but I think it turned out quite well anyways.



But the question I have is that I was reading the instruction book and as I am soon getting close to changing all oils and pretty much doing a service on the tractor, I was reading the instruction book and realised that it said to change oil in the steering gearbox or what you want to call it, I can see it in the cab but how do I easily reach to change the oil? I can't seem to find any explanation in the instruction manual or see anywhere where I can see a level plug or change the oil in it.

I would also like to know if there's any common places for it to leak quite high up on the gearbox as if I lay under the tractor it is a bit oily and seems to come from quite high up kind of in the middle of the tractor, I haven't really looked much into the leak yet. Seems to be a bit dirty or oily even on the top of the gearbox around the cab.

 

[ludvig]

I forgot to add, in the list of oils. Styrsnäcka is steering gearbox or what you want to call it and it says that you should use the same oil as in the engine, I assume that the list is correct in that or does anyone else have any better recommendations? Oh and I do have power steering on the tractor as well I forgot to add that if that makes any difference but I assume it doesn't as the steering gearbox should be the same with or without power steering I assume.

 

[Joachim]

engine:
a enginge oil for your climate zone with API CB or CC fit best. If not to find, a standard SAE 15W-40 works also good enough.

gearbox, rear end portals, mechanical steering gearbox:
a gearbox oil for your climate zone with API GL4 (not GL5 !), like a SAE 80W-90 API GL4 or a litle bit thinner

hydraulic steering:
HLP 32 or HVL 32 or similar one


Oils that are supposed to be able to do everything (engine and transmission) are like craftsmen who supposedly can do everything: shit.

And never forget its an old lady with special needings.

 

[ludvig]

Hello again, I was cleaning the oil filter and air filter today and the oil filter had been maintained very well


But anyways to my main question, I was re-assembling the air filter and I have tried ordering new seals for it but I couldn't find any either online or by calling the closest Zetor dealership. It has an oil bath air filter and it says VT-251 on it.

Is there anywhere you can buy new seals for this air filter? The old ones look ok but not too good, I think they will seal but I wish to buy new ones for when I clean out the oil filter and change oil in it the next time.

 

[Kristian Vester]

Hej og velkommen Ludvig!

Dit sæde er ikke et originalt sæde, men et tredjepartssæde (tilbehør). Derfor finder du det ikke i noget Zetor -reservedelskatalog.
De originale sæder så således ud:
View attachment 1817View attachment 1820

View attachment 1818 View attachment 1821
Den første er et simpelt bøttesæde. Mekanisk affjedret og med friktionsskivedæmpere.
Det andet er Aerolastic komfortsædet (ekstraudstyr). Denne er hydraulisk dæmpet og har desuden en luftpude under sædet.
Aerolastic-sædet er meget mere behageligt end bøjlesædet.



View attachment 1822
Bag de 4 dæksler (2 skruer, 2 dæksler på hver side af akslen, dvs. et dæksel forfra og et bagfra) kan du låse forakslen ved hjælp af de 4 låsebolte - det skal du bestemt gøre, hvis du bruger en frontlæsser. Ellers vil spiralfjedrene i akslen gå relativt hurtigt i stykker, da de ikke er designet til sådan en belastning (sådan en vægt).

Die Bolzen schauen so aus:
View attachment 1823 View attachment 1827 View attachment 1824 View attachment 1825 View attachment 1826
Hvis fjedrene allerede er trætte, kan det være nødvendigt at aflaste forakslen til montering eller afmontering for at få støtteringen i midten af åbningen.

View attachment 1828View attachment 1829
Bolten har varenummer 55113636 (4x) og er fremstillet med stor præcision og er desuden hærdet. På den ene side er der et indvendigt gevind i et blindhul, så bolten kan fjernes igen.
View attachment 1830
Gummien (55113637, 4x) er designet til at sikre, at låsestiften altid presses tæt mod lågets støttering. Låget er normalt forseglet med en papirforsegling for at forhindre vand i at komme ind - men hvis du smører nok fedt på det, kan du undvære papirforseglingen, hvis d

Hi, if you can't find locking bolts, I have some in stock in Denmark, write to me at my email (kriisvester@gmail.com)

 

[ludvig]

Hi, if you can't find locking bolts, I have some in stock in Denmark, write to me at my email (kriisvester@gmail.com)

Thank you, but I've already got some locking bolts

 

[Joachim]

I have some in stock in Denmark

Hello,

@Kristian Vester
Where in Denmark are you from?
We go to beautiful Denmark twice a year to vacation and meet good friends. Maybe we can meet in Denmark and chat about Zetor tractors.

Do you also know Henrik Juhler from Denmark? We have become very good friends and meet every year. He is also a Zetor fan and an extremely experienced classic car mechanic.
The two of us in the Danish desert (large shifting dune in the north).


We are also good friends from Ejner Husted (Denmark, Zetor 3011 and 10011) and we also visited Sørensen og Lynggaard (Zetor 25A) and got a factory tour and made photos for our Zetor calendars.

photos: Zetor 25A from Søren Sørensen, Henrik Juhler with Zetor 50 Super and Ejner Husted s Zetor 3011 (photos are taken from my wife)

So we are always interested to meet Zetor fans in Denmark and maybe take photos of Zetor tractors for our next Zetor tractor calendars.
In this May we're going on holiday to Torup Strand again, which wouldn't be soooo far from you.