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question Zetor 6211 clutch pedal

J

jmeyer2100

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Jan 9, 2018
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First name
james meyer
Hi,
Just bought a used older Zetor 6211 and it seemed to run fine for an hour or so. then the clutch pedal just went slack.
Tractor starts and runs fine but no clutch, so cant put it in gear anymore.
Just bought a maint manual, trying to learn about this tractor. In the mean time, does anyone have any ideas?
Thanks
 
Hi,
Just bought a used older 6211 and it seemed to run fine for an hour or so. then the clutch pedal just went slack.
Tractor starts and runs fine but no clutch, so cant put it in gear anymore.
Click to expand...

Your problem is it probable leaking fluid from the clutch piston under the pedal and its drained all the brake fluid out of the vessel under the bonnet, so the pedal is not doing anything and you cant select a gear.

Have a look first in the vessel and see the brake fluid level. then look for a leak if you take off a panel on the floor on the clutch pedal side you`ll see the piston that works the clutch, it will need new seal kit.
 
Thanks for the very quick response.
I have looked at the brake fluid bottle under the hood.
It is still full, and I haven't added any.
Also I see no evidence of a leak in the area.
However any leaking would likely pool on the ground below.

I will look into this further, but are there any other possibilities?

Thanks
 

Is the pedal just hitting the floor when you press it? or if you pump the pedal does it build up any, check its not air in it because if not fluid related its going to be internal, so be sure its not the piston stuck in, seized or anything like that first.

 
Thanks again for writing.
The pedal just goes to the floor.
Like its not connected to anything.
Is there a linkage arm that may have disconnected?
I need to buy an illustrated parts manual, not sure if everything is there.
Thanks Again
 
The pedal just goes to the floor.
Like its not connected to anything.
Is there a linkage arm that may have disconnected?
Click to expand...

On your 6211 the clutch when you press it down fluid from piston under the pedal pushes the control for clutch inside, on the 7245 we had the piston under the floor was the culprit several times. but if its the clutch just goes and cant engages it could be there is a finger broken

 
Thanks again for responding.
I looked at the clutch pedal and cylinder below once again.
What I still dont understand, is how depressing the pedal, causes the cylinder to actuate. There appears to be no linkage between them. None that I can see anyway.
The pedal only has a lever, that closes a switch when the pedal is fully depressed. The switch has no wires connected to it, they appear to have been cut by the previous owner at some time in the past.
So for me, it appears to be a missing or broken linkage between the pedal and cylinder, but again, i really dont understand how this is supposed to work.
I wish I could send a picture, this would help you understand what I am talking about.
I looked up the cylinder on line and I can buy a new one for $50
Also, if I had an illustrated parts diagram, I could figure out if some linkage was missing / broken.
Thanks again
 

The switch with the wires is a safety switch to stop the tractor starting without the clutch being pressed in. under the clutch pedal between it and the floor is a slave cylinder that the pedal pushes in by a shaft on the pedal, fluid then is forced down to the piston on the side that works the clutch arm.
 
under the clutch pedal between it and the floor is a slave cylinder that the pedal pushes in by a shaft on the pedal, fluid then is forced down to the piston on the side that works the clutch arm.

diyfarmer/ 2 Zetor Forterra.. HSX 140

OK,
This is the part I really don't understand. You say there is supposed to be a shaft on the pedal which pushes on the slave cylinder. But I don't see any shaft that pushes on the slave cylinder?
This is why I need an illustrated parts breakdown, to see where this shaft is supposed to be.
Thanks
 

Yes if you put your hand on the back of the pedal arm right up at the top near the hinged point you should feel a linkage to hold a little shaft that pushes into the slave cylinder that in under the dash

 
Awesome,
This is exactly the information I was looking for.
I am away from home now, on a business trip.
When I return, I will look to see if this linkage is there and whether the slave cylinder is working.
I will write again in a few days with the results.

Thanks again for all your help.
 

Great, hopefully that's the problem and slave cylinder not getting pressed in.
 
Thanks for the last post,
I finally had a chance to look at this thing again after 10 days away. looks to me, the cylinder behind the pedal is seized in. Therefore all slack in the pedal as I reported.I am a bit confused because you stated this was the slave cyl Correct??
Because this cylinder behind the pedal looks like the master cylinder according to the illustrated part diagram I looked at. Also there are many master cylinders for sale on line -vs- no slave cylinders found. This would indicate many others having the same problem as me.
Anyway, I ordered one online today and I'm hoping this corrects the problem.
Will let you know the final result.
Also any Idea what type and grade of brake fluid should be used in the reservoir.
Thanks Again

 
My apologies it is the master cylinder the slave cylinder is one down lower, but if its is seized its not working and then your clutch not's being pressed in. according my book it says to use syntrol HD 205.



Did you get any joy after?
 
Thanks again for all your help.
I replaced the master cyl and all is good with the clutch now.

The biggest problem remaining with this tractor is with the Hydraulics engagement.
This tractor will not allow me to engage the hydraulic lever while running. (Just grinds)

So I have to start it with the hydraulics already engaged. Meaning my PTO turns and mower turns... If I want to stop the mower I can pull back the hyd lever and disengage, but then cant re-engage the lever while running. Have to shut down and re-engage the lever.
Seems like something is badly out of adjustment.
Any ideas??

Thanks again.
 

When you say engage the hydraulics you mean the PTO the lever to turn on the pto is between your legs on the floor but to engage it you need to pull up the hand clutch at your left hand side where the hand brake is. You pull up the hand clutch and put the lever on the floor at your left leg into gear.
 
Thanks for the response.

Wow, I did not know there was a hand clutch. I will give it a try.
This has been very helpful.

Thanks again.
 
Thanks for the response.

Wow, I did not know there was a hand clutch. I will give it a try.
This has been very helpful.

Thanks again.
Click to expand...

Have you been trying to engaging the PTO without pulling up the hand clutch? It`s no wonder it was grinding. It is only Crystal type tractors that have independent PTO.
Is there anything else you have questions on?
 
I've tried engaging it several times this way, with always the same result. (Of Course)

Mostly been starting with it already engaged if I am using my mower.
I really have no more questions at this time.

Hopefully I can figure the rest out on my own.

This is a great forum, so glad you have it.

Thanks again.
 
I've tried engaging it several times this way, with always the same result. (Of Course)
Mostly been starting with it already engaged if I am using my mower.
This is a great forum, so glad you have it.

Thanks again.
Click to expand...
I`m happy you got sorted, glad to help anytime.

It was a bit dangerous doing this and wouldn't be recommended
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Does the 6211 have a wet clutch? I can't remember. When my 5211 had clutch problems like that I had to add hydraulic fluid. It was hard to get in there, but it did the trick. Wish I had a photo, but there was a filler tube on the side of the housing for adding fluid.
 
When my 5211 had clutch problems like that I had to add hydraulic fluid. It was hard to get in there, but it did the trick. Wish I had a photo, but there was a filler tube on the side of the housing for adding fluid.
Click to expand...

There is a filler hole on the left side of the clutch housing for adding oil to lubricate clutch release sleeve, 10 drops only is recommended
 
Yes thats it. I thought I had clutch fingers broken. Its been awhile back and I was a Zetor greenhorn.
 
Its been awhile back and I was a Zetor greenhorn.
Click to expand...

we all were greenhorns one time, it just with some models of Zetors, we had to learn fast.
 
Hi Fellas,
Thanks for the responses.
I have been away the last month or so.
Finally had time to try the hand clutch next to the hand brake.
Actually it is seized. so I cant engage it.
I guess its been out in the weather too long.

I will try messing with it when I get a chance.
Thanks
 
Hi Fellas,
Thanks for the responses.
Finally had time to try the hand clutch next to the hand brake.
Actually it is seized. so I cant engage it.
I guess its been out in the weather too long.
Thanks
Click to expand...

Well the hand clutch on your model were never easy to pull up at the best of times you really need to be standing over it, from the left side. But if its seized it is a Bowden cable that's probably the problem, I'm not sure where the other end goes, but there is a linkage on the left side, if you get down under the left wheel you'll be able to make it out.
 
thanks again for the response.
I have been away again and upon returning home for a few days i saw that I needed to mow a bit with my Zetor and brush hog.
So , with no time to work on the hand clutch lever, I proceeded to start the 6211 and mow one of my fields. But now the next problem,,,, I can push in the foot clutch and put the tractor in any gear, but when I release the foot clutch, it does not engage, and the tractor doesnt move.
I then tried to put the tractor in any gear without even pushing in the foot clutch, and I can, no problem... it just wont move.
So it appears, while this thing was sitting for the last couple months, the clutch stopped engaging.
If I had to guess why, I would think maybe it is leaking fluid and now over time it is too low to operate..??
The foot clutch had been working fine after replacing the slave cylinder as you advised me to do.
This thing just seems to have a new problem every time I try to use it. Very frustrating. Any thoughts about my diagnosis?
Thanks
 
Unfortunately the best advice for any tractor owner is, to keep a tractor in optimum performance they should be started and drove at least once a week especially if not stored indoors.




First check the fluid in the vessel, but you would know by what pressure you feel on the pedal.
But you changed the master cylinder which is the top one didn't you? But there is a slave cylinder lower down, it controls the pushing in and out of the clutch control which used to be manually on the older models, so check that

6341 Clutch Slave Cylinder
Started at Fri Feb 16 19:57:10 2018
Has anyone done a work-around for the clutch slave cylinder? It's nickel and diming me to death. This will be the third cylinder and there's only 2200 hours on this rig...and they're around $100 a pop.

From Texas, USA --- 2006 Zetor 6341 Super with Loader.

There's a post from earlier this year a man in America who has a newer version of your tractor, who is having constant problems with the slave cylinder.



You may be in the same boat.
 
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