question Zetor 6340 clutch adjustment

Clutch slave cylinder is all the way out but clutch is not disengaged. Is there an adjustment or do I need a new clutch?

Clutch slave cylinder is all the way out but clutch is not disengaged. Is there an adjustment or do I need a new clutch?

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had this on a Zetor 7341 Super it was the release bearing and fingers that was worn out . try inspecting it through the Hatch on the bellhousing

Thanks. I guess this means a new clutch. I'm not sure what to look for in the inspection port. Will the adjustment bolts around the perimeter be of any use ?

Can I put a small spacer to extend the rod 1 or 2 cm to get more clutch movement ?

Thanks. I guess this means a new clutch. I'm not sure what to look for in the inspection port. Will the adjustment bolts around the perimeter be of any use ?

Can I put a small spacer to extend the rod 1 or 2 cm to get more clutch movement ?

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towards the gearbox there is a large ring, thats the release bearing. if it has a big groove in its surface and the clutch fingers that it pushes against is worn Level they need replacing. the clutch plate itself can be fine. dont extend the rod you can then push Things so far they will break.

Thanks for the help. The release bearing face is smooth, without any grooves. I haven't felt the fingers yet as I don't know what to feel for. I have found a picture of the Zetor dual stage clutch which shows 6 fingers, 3 which adjust. Is this the clutch on the 6340. I have ordered the parts and shop manuals in PDF from England, but won't be here in Canada for several weeks.

I have taken off the slave and the bore seems clean when I push the piston back in.

I haven't bought the tractor yet, still deciding. The owner says that he noticed the clutch requiring more movement to disengage the transmission. Does this give a clue to the problem ?

Thanks for the help. The release bearing face is smooth, without any grooves. I haven't felt the fingers yet as I don't know what to feel for. I have found a picture of the Zetor dual stage clutch which shows 6 fingers, 3 which adjust. Is this the clutch on the 6340. I have ordered the parts and shop manuals in PDF from England, but won't be here in Canada for several weeks.

I have taken off the slave and the bore seems clean when I push the piston back in.

I haven't bought the tractor yet, still deciding. The owner says that he noticed the clutch requiring more movement to disengage the transmission. Does this give a clue to the problem ?

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if the bearing are fine the fingers are most likely fine. the clutch plate is mst likely worn out by an operator who has rested his oot on the pedal under work, its crucial not to have Your foot on the pedal when not needed on these tractors because of a minimum of free play. tha parts are inexpensive and the job is farely easy to do. does it have meany operatin hours ?

I think the meter is between 2000 and 3000 hours. Tractor was used for mowing, raking, and baling hay. Tires look new and it has a good quick detach front loader which looks brand new. But everything is seized up from sitting for 6 or 8 years in our damp west coast climate.

Does the 6340 have a 2 stage clutch ?

I think the meter is between 2000 and 3000 hours. Tractor was used for mowing, raking, and baling hay. Tires look new and it has a good quick detach front loader which looks brand new. But everything is seized up from sitting for 6 or 8 years in our damp west coast climate.

Does the 6340 have a 2 stage clutch ?

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No it has not the other set of fingers and the other plate is for the PTO clutch but its independent from the drive clutch. you operate the PTO cluth With the reverse handbrake lever. or on som never models it is fitted the same way as the handbrake and has a yellow handle.

Thanks again. So does the 6340 clutch have 6 adjustable fingers or just 3 ?

Also did you see my post about the PTO clutch and handbrake which seem to be frozen together on the shaft that goes into the transmission. Between the two arms there is a fiber or plastic sleeve on the shaft, which I discovered when heating the shaft to try and free the arms. Any thoughts on this ?

The fingers for PTO is also adjustable but not relevant for the drive clutch problem. there is no shaft that goes in to the transmission its just a pivot point. this can be detached and freed up. grease it good With copper grease when you re assemble it and it will not seize up again. at least i think you can remove this pivot point, its about 15 years since i did this job on a 7341 we had. it had seized up over Winter, and when i was going to spread muck i couldnt get the pto clutch up.

The shaft must go all the way through the transmission, because on the other side of the tractor a similar shaft comes out to activate the hand brake. There must be an inner shaft which works the PTO clutch and the two are frozen together but I haven't been able to free up by hammering and I cn't use heat because of the plastic sleeve.

The shaft must go all the way through the transmission, because on the other side of the tractor a similar shaft comes out to activate the hand brake. There must be an inner shaft which works the PTO clutch and the two are frozen together but I haven't been able to free up by hammering and I cn't use heat because of the plastic sleeve.

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no nothing on this shaft is operating anything internal. the pto clutch is operated outside beside the slave cylinder for drive clutch. this shaft is just a pivot point. yes it goes throug the bottom of transmission but thats just to serve as a pivot point for the handbrake on the other side. i think you should try to get one side of and slide the shaft out and then try heating and loosening the parts. to let them soak in diesel a few days is a good idea. you may have to drain gearbox oil before removing shaft.

Thanks, I haven't looked at the tractor for a few days, and had taken off some of the linkages as the handbrake and cPTO clutch cables were seized, so I may not have remembered a linkage from the pivot point to near the clutch slave. What I remember is that both cables came to arms on the same shaft attached to the side of the trans case and it seemed that on the opposite side of tractor in same position was a shaft/arm which I assumed was for the parking brake. I will go back and look at it tomorrow. At any rate it would seem that the PTO and brake pivot arms would have to act independently, so will take you suggestion to remove the shaft and loosen things up.

Just in from the tractor. Put my hand in the clutch window again and confirmed that the release bearing turns freely with no noise and face is smooth. Could only reach one finger and didn't know what to feel for but no sharp edges found. I'm inclined to put the slave back in, bleed the system and try to free the clutch by tying to a tree or running on pavement in highest speed gear while holding pressure on clutch pedal. This might save me from splitting the tractor to repair the clutch.

Now for the frozen PTO pivot arm. I had removed the 35-40 cm flat connecting rod to the inner arm on the same shaft as the outer clutch arm. The PTO and clutch arms are not frozen and I can turn the PTO arm with a wrench. The pivot arm, however is frozen to the shaft which goes through the transmission case to activate both brakes with the parking brake cable attached to the same side as the PTO clutch cable. The PTO pivot arm must have to rotate freely on this shaft, otherwise using the PTO clutch would apply the brakes or using the parking brake would change the clutch. AM I CORRECT IN THIS DECISION ???

I have taken the circle clips off both ends of the shaft, but will have to pull off the solo brake arm in order to pull the shaft out. I can drain the trans lube, but will I have trouble getting the shaft back through ? Will I need new seals ? Is there another way to free the PTO pivot ? I am afraid to heat the pivot arm very much, because it is close to the trans wall, where there may be a seal. Suggestions ???

After much work (heat, hammer, wrench, and sweat) I have removed the shaft with a few hammer marks which I hope won't cause much leaking at the seals which look good. I will probably put it all back together with the old seals. If too much leak, now that everything is loosened it won't be but a few hours work to take it down and change the seals.

Before splitting the tractor, I will put the clutch slave and rods back together and see if I can free the clutch by tying to a tree and pulling while holding pressure on the clutch pedal (as suggested in some of the old forum threads. Thanks for your help Forterra.