question Zetor UR1 - install air conditioning ?

One idea is to install a bigger alternator, and to fix a set like this


on the roof (the compressor needs AMPS, so tou need heavy cables. But it's easier that plumbing i think?).
Here is a design picture (from a finnish web forum), the plate is the roof hatch.

Zetroen said:

One idea is to install a bigger alternator, and to fix a set like this
View attachment 2407

on the roof (the compressor needs AMPS, so tou need heavy cables. But it's easier that plumbing i think?).
Here is a design picture (from a finnish web forum), the plate is the roof hatch.

View attachment 2408

Click to expand...

What du you think - for 60-80 A ...
What size of cables are needed for safety work? 16mm² ?
Or will more be better?

Joachim said:

What du you think - for 60-80 A ...
What size of cables are needed for safety work? 16mm² ?
Or will more be better?

Click to expand...

It depends what compressor you choose. The data sellers provide is very ..hmm, not quite complete . If you look at the power, if it says 800W in 12V it means 67 Amps, and electric motor wants more when starting (double would be no miracle). And the size of the cable depends on it's length. If we think it would be 132A with acceptable voltage loss of 10% (1,4V) with alternator output 14V, it would be 16mm2 with length of 3 meters as stated from an online calculator. You should note, that the calculator presumes your + and - cables are the same material, but in practice you use chassis as - so you are on the safe side with the calculation. That is, if you have the bonding between battery and cab done with power line heavy enough with good connections, and not like in my project where the cab was basically floating, maybe 1,5mm2 of wires connected between cab and engine...

And another thing for the electric sets is that the power is limited compared to belt driven compressors which seem to be around 2-3kW, so maybe in Greece you should go for that. Tractor cab is smaller than in the car but you have heat from the power line if you don't isolate it (floor, that is).

Very interesting.

I made a lot of electrical changes to my Zetor 5011 when I rebuilt it years ago:

- Alternator changed from 45 A original to 95 A
- Cable cross-section between alternator and starter from 4mm² to 16mm²
- Battery cable between battery and starter from 35mm² to 50mm² fine strand (from boat building)
- Battery 145 Ah 12V replaced with 195 Ah 12 (Exide truck battery)
- Cable for the driving light in the hood from 3x 1.5 mm² to 4x 2.5 mm² and also the ground connection from 1x 1.5 mm² to 2x 2.5 mm². Then changed from Bilux to H4 (headlights from Wesem)
- as well as a few other cables that were reinforced in order to be able to safely install and attach the radio, work lights, etc.

I had the entire wiring harness out and rebuilt it largely according to my own wishes.

If you were sure that 2x 16mm² would be enough, it would be easy to retrofit and from the battery you could go directly in the A-pillar on the left side of the cabin up to the roof console and from there onto the roof.
The air conditioning would then have to be fitted into the roof hatch and then there would be the question of how much higher the tractor would be and how easy it would be to get to it for maintenance.
In terms of weight, this is not a problem with a metal roof, but with a GRP or plastic roof like the BK 6011 cabin, you would have to distribute the load over a larger area to avoid damage to the roof.

If you had any more photos of this type of conversion, I would be grateful for any. Then I could think about whether I could choose this option for myself.

I also come from central Germany, we usually have 25 to 34°C here in summer, but rarely more.

Oh yes, how does the cool air flow into the interior? You don't get a stiff neck from cold air on your neck?

Yes this is interesting possibility, but needs a lot of thinking, planning and engineering.
I haven't done it myself as the tractor is not going yet, but some projects among other hobbyists going on and I'm following whats happening.

To the inside you have to decide where to put the evaporator (the cooling part, this connects to outside by refrigerant tubing). They sell ready boxes in different shapes with a fan, or you can try to fit it in series with the existing heating matrix, or somewhere in the air channel of the original matrix. Also what seems not to be thinked in some designs is where to take the condensing water that comes from the evaporator, you need a small dripping hose to outside from the box.
Also there are one box variants to be installed through-roof to trucks and camping caravans, RV's.. From what I searched they may be a little too big to be installed on a roof hatch, and deleting that is no option as at least in Finland it is mandatory (emergecy exit).

Maybe this could be a new thread as Greg is going after the original?

Good idia - i split the thread now...

For a long time I found this site:



Thats for me at the moment the favorite solution, what do you think about this?

Well if it looks OK to you it's OK. I would like it to be on the roof, if it doesn't fit where we have the extra heater matrix in Finnish made roof. Cool air naturally comes downwards. If you leave the fan down, you can put the compressor motor somewhere low too so it's more simple to install. Also the drip tube is easy to route outside through the dash and floor.

Use belt compressor and remove the original heater buy kit with cold and heat and put in the same position like original cut the front of the original location of heater to install the vents

Do you think that a kit like this provides enough heat output? We sometimes have -10°C here and the tractor should still be reasonably warm in the cab.

Do you happen to have a link to a combination kit like this?

I just found this on AliExpress:
€299.44 | Automobile universal air conditioning kit,Complete car air conditioner kit,Agricultural machinery, A/C kits for trucks and vans
Automobil universal klimaanlage kit, Komplette auto klimaanlage kit, Landwirtschaft maschinen, A/C kits für lkw und transporter - AliExpress 34 - https://a.aliexpress.com/_Eu4HI5Q. Check it is trust seller for 12245 need 14*18*22 condenser

Some sellers are missing some data, this seller is missing ALL the data . Nothing about the power, but I see it's a very small and easy to fit as the things measure under 6cm long and wide..

Zetroen said:

Some sellers are missing some data, this seller is missing ALL the data . Nothing about the power, but I see it's a very small and easy to fit as the things measure under 6cm long and wide..

Click to expand...

You can ask him is easy try it ....

Seems to block my country...

Also the parts included to switch to heating are not described anyhow. It is easier to find a dealer who informs what he is selling than try to communicate with dozens of dealers who don't. I would also be interested in the heating power, but that link does not help it..