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3320 PTO and Three Point Lift Problems

R

roadpacker

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roadpacker
The pto shaft and three point hitch on my Zetor 3320 do not work when the pto/pump lever is in position C (hydraulic only) or position B ( hydraulic + pto) the pto shaft will turn when the pto/pump lever is in position A (pto ground). I have cleaned the hydraulic pump suction and magnet, but didn't help. Will a slightly low hydraulic oil level cause this problem? Also, the operator's manual states that the hydraulic pump on some models of the 3320 is mounted inside the differential housing. Can anyone please tell me how I can gain access to the pump? Thanks
 
First start by checking if the rollpin holding the lever on the shifter shaft is intact. Broken ends sliding over each other can fool you, thinking you feel a shift.
 
Thanks for the info. I did check the pin in the PTO/hydraulic shift lever where it enters the top of the gearbox and it is still intact. The Hi/Lo/ shift lever is working ok, just the PTO/hydraulic shift lever is not working. When it is moved up and down it travels very easy and smooth with no "clicks" of the detents. I believe the internal shift lever is broken/bent/or disconnected. Is the next step to pull the gearbox top cover, and if so, will I be able to get to the shift lever, as it appears to go into the differential. I am going to have to repair this problem myself, as I am 175 miles from a Zetor dealer. Any advice, suggestions and help will be most appreciated.
 
Is your tractor equipped with the 540/1000rpm PTO and is it engaged in 540rpm ? Otherwise it wont drive the oil pump either.
 
According to the 3320 Operators Manual, all 3320/3340 models have single speed live pto (540 rpm) The picture in the manual shows the PTO Speed selector lever to be located between and slightly behind the Hi/Lo/ lever and the Pto Drive Shaft Lever. MY 3320 does not have the lever. It looks like I am going to have to remove the gearbox top cover to see what is going on with the internal PTO/Hydraulic shift lever . I just don't know if this will allow me to access the lever where it goes into the differential. Can anyone tell me if I am on the right track or do I need to go a different direction? I have got to get this beast fixed, as it is too good to scrap. Engine, tires, sheet metal all are good, just has a gimpy pto and lift. Wish there was a Zetor dealer closer to me. He would have a new job this morning on a 3320.
 
Hi,

It sounds like the weld on the inside of the little operating shaft has broken. It's quite a common fault and gives you strange positions where things work and don't work. Taking the top off the gearbox will give you access to it. You may have to cut 2 round lumps with a hole in them off the casting at the front to get the top off.

Mike
 
Hi Mike, thank you for the reply and your help.I'm thinking that you are correct on taking the gearbox cover off. I just have to work up the courage to do it, as I am not familiar with the Zetor gear arrangement. I have always been a Ford owner all my life and I am having to learn the Zetor as I find broken things. Looks like I may be in for a PHD education on my 3320. Do you know of any dos and don'ts on removing the cover? I see alot of moving parts inside that I don't have a clue about. Will I have to replace the PTO/Hydraulic shifter lever and linkage rod if the weld is broken? Any and all advice will be used and appreciated. Thanks, Skip
 
Hi,

It's all straight forward. You'll have to take the 3 panels off round the bottom of the dash/steering column.
No need to change the selector rod, just the little lever.

Mike
 
Thanks Mike, straight forward is good news. I already have all the panels off the steering column and can see pretty much what has to be done to remove the gearbox cover. I am concerned about the linkage connections from both the hi/lo shift lever( which works ok) and the pto/hydraulic shift lever ( which doesn't work- moves freely but nothing happens), as well as the main gearshift lever. Does the main gearshift lever and box have to be removed before the gearbox cover comes off? If no, then what gear does it have to be in to align the shift rails so it will come up smoothly. I would think neutral, but that's a guess. What position would the hi/lo and pto/hydraulic shift lever need to be in? Again, I would say neutral, but that is a WAG on my thinking. Keep talking to me and build my courage and I'll put the big gloves on and hit it hard. Thanks for all the help Skip
 
Hi.
It will come of whith the selectors in any pos. Taking the gearlever of lightens the weigt of corse and it is esier putting back on one pice at a time.
Bjarne
 
Thank you for the information. I will give it a go this week and post back on my progress.
 
Mike, you were totally correct about the weld being broke on the PTO shifting lever. I removed the small bolt that retains the lever in the gearbox cover and was able to remove the lever without taking the gearbox cover off. The weld was sheared off smooth with the lever.I now have to remove the gearbox cover to see what is going on,but don't have a clue as to how the lever is linked to the PTO shifting fork. Anyone have any suggestions as to what is next and how to go about it? Thanks for all the help so far-I ain't done yet!
 
Simply some M10 bolts on top and two horizontal M16 bolts into the diff housing.

Putting it back means dropping the cover on and move the shift levers till their rounded butts drop into the U slots cut into the shifter rod.

You will see the bolts that make the click when shifting: its easier to unscrew them so you get a better feel of what youre doing when reassembling
 
Thank you Renze. I really do appreciate all the information that you guys have shared with me. I don't think I would have had the courage to tackle the job without ya'lls help. Are you talking about removing the detent bolts on the top of the cover before going back with it? I now need to start thinking about rounding up replacement parts Is there particular source where parts can be bought on line? I live in the U.S.A. in Alabama and the nearest Zetor is in Tennessee. If I have to have the parts shipped UPS I need to find the cheapest place to buy them, but that may be a dealer-I just don't know at this point. Again, thanks for all the help. Skip
 
Hai,for cheap prices try also AGROAD COMPANY from czech republic,contact adams bajer his email-bajer@agroad.cz,later you will decide where to buy,regards.
 
It sounds like the parts youre going to need, arent valuable enough to make it worthwhile to send them by post from Czechia even though they are quite cheaper there.

To save on shipment costs, you could probably better order the odd bits from Ridgeway in the USA
https://www.ridgewaytractorparts.com/ecommerce/

 
Thanks for the good information on a parts source. Ridgeway seems to have most of the parts that I think I need. I still have not pulled the gearbox cover off, as I got a repair manual and have been studying it to be sure that I do it correctly. The manual does give a good illustration of the internal parts, but is somewhat sketchy on how the gearshift lever, hi/lo range lever, and pto selector lever connect with the shift rails inside the gear case. Am I making this job more complicated than it actually is , or do I just snatch the gearbox cover off and worry about the linkage connections when I try to replace the broken pto lever and go back with the gearbox cover. I sure don't want to get started on the job and find out that my new found knowledge on the replacement has exceeded my intelligence level. Should I just go ahead and pull the cover off the gearbox and let the rough end drag on going back with it. I am probably real good on tearing things apart, but am lacking on putting them back correctly. I am in Alabama in the USA and am a long distance from a Zetor dealer, so if I get it apart and can't get it back together I will be S.O.L and wind up with a 6000 lb yard ornament. Thanks again for all the help and advice up to this point. Skip
 
Just get it done. Zetors were sold by John Deere, and even locally assembled by Deere between 1993 and 1996 in Mexico, and also in Iraq, Myanmar and every other shithole of the world, because you can fix them with a hammer and a monkey wrench under a shade tree, if need arises.

If you can change the brake pads on your car, you can fix this gearbox selector problem. When you get on edge, just leave it, grab a beer and come back the next morning. When keeping your head calm so you observe and think before you do, you can handle a lot more than you'd think.

Lets get this straight: Getting it to a dealer is not an option, you say. You have already accepted that you'd end up with a yard ornament if you fail. Based on these facts, mathemathically spoken, your path lays straight ahead of you: The reward for success is big, and all you put at stake in case of failure, is a little shop time
 
Excellent advice, Renze. Spoken like my old first sergeant who lead by example. " No guts-no glory" I'll dive into it and getter done. I just have to be smarter than the machine and follow the three rules of equipment repair. (1) Don't fix anything that ain't broke. (2) Don't replace any parts that I don't have, and (3) Never install a mercury switch on a houseboat. Thanks again, Skip
 
Spoken like an old seargeant who lead by example... now that is a compliment i dont get every day
 
Pulled the gearbox cover today, and found what I suspected-PTO lever sheared off from the shifting lever. Broken piece had dropped to bottom of gearbox, and after much fishing with a magnet was able to hook and hold it for extraction from case. How lucky was that! I will order parts Monday and get them installed and see if that was my ONLY problem. Sure do hope that the PTO shifting fork is not broke or bent, as it is located in the differential housing, and that will take a huge infusion of money or high explosives to get to.I don't want to start looking for boogers before I have to, so I'll keep following the advice that ya'll have given me and "getter done" Thanks to all who have replyied, and happy Veterans Day to all old soldiers wherever you may be. Skip
 
Did you ever dig into it? I'm having an issue as well on my 3329 except mine is stuck in pto only. Any ideas
 
With the lever stuck in PTO only, does the pto shaft turn as it should? If it works and you can't select any other positions, you may have the same issue I have - a broken PTO lever.
 
Received my parts order yesterday from Ridgeway and installed the new PTO lever. I put the gearbox cover on with 4 bolts and no gasket and tried the lever and it worked smoothly. Started the tractor and now have hydraulics and pto working normal.I will remove the gearbox cover and install the gasket tomorrow.My next question is should I use a gasket sealer on the gaskets and cover bolts to help keep water out or just install bolts and gaskets dry? The manual calls for a sealer on the two large bolts between the gearbox cover and the differential, but can't find any info for the M10 bolts on the cover. Any advice? I am well please with Ridgeway as a parts source. They had everything I needed and were most helpful with advice. They even had a used gearshift guide that was like new and less than half price of a new one. I appreciate all the help ya'll have given me on this project. Skip
 
You did fish out the broken part, to stay clear of future possible damage ?

Normally it should seal by the gasket alone. But the gasket between rear axle and cover is probably broken on the front part now you took the lid off, so thats why you should use some instant gasket to get that to seal again.
 
Yes, I was able to fish the broken part of the lever out of the gearcase with a magnet.Took several tries, but eventually found it. You are correct about the gasket between the gearcase when I removed the gearcase cover and rear end breaking . I cut it off smooth and made another out of garlok to go over the two large bolts that hold the case cover to the rear end. I will use teflon dope on it and just use a very light coat of anti seize on the gearbox cover gasket to help hold it in place. Sure hope the PTO lever switches as smooth with the gaskets in and all bolts torqued down as it did with gaskets.
 
on zetor gaskets i always find it useful to use instant gasket on the gasket surfaces because the material in them are not always of the best sort.

 
Thanks for the tip, I'll use instant gasket rather than teflon and anti seize. It will be a few days before I get back on the project.
 
After a long break from putting the Zetor back together, I finally pulled the top off the gear case again, and installed the gaskets.Reinstalled the top and everything shifts and works like it should.I would like to thank everyone who offered advice and tips on my problem. I probably would not have done it without your help.Took a test drive and used both the hydraulic lift and pto- both are now working. Now it's on to my next issue- electrical wiring, which I know I'll be needing some more help from you experts. Thanks again.
 
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