S
Saskatchewan
Guest
I have had a request for info on my experiences with clutch/brake repairs, so I have copied them here for any others who may be interested in future.
Hi Greg:
The master cylinders on the clutch and L and R brakes are all the same, but separate units. If your 4340 is ~ 8-10+ years old all will have to be replaced as they have a limited life. The replacements are of better manufacture. The masters are located above the pedals and the pedal drives the piston on each unit. The slave is attached to the bell housing on the transmission LH side right below the pedal - you will need to go under the tractor to work on it. A slave repair kit is available from Zetor ~ $5. The rubber seal wares out on the internal piston in the slave. They are all easy replacements. Be sure to pump lots of brake fluid through after to get rid of the bubbles.
The bleed valve on the slave if the nipple - careful you don't brake it off, and the L and R brake bleeds are in the rear where the brake lines join the rear slaves - under the small black boxes in the back by the 3 pt hitch.
Good Luck!
Thanks....nice to hear from you, and I hope this goes fairly simply. Anything else you think might be helpful will be appreciated. While I'm thinking of it, I have a transmission/hydraulic fluid leak, and it seems to be coming from the top of the transmission, and running down the side close to the clutch slave cylinder. Is this a common leak for the 4340, or is it just mine?
Greg
Greg:
Mine is a 1995 4340 FEL with ~1800 hrs and I have no fluid leaks anywhere. If you have a leak coming from the top of the trans I would look close at the top rear of the motor for a oil leak at the head or the valve cover. It is possible that the valve cover gasket seal has a wrinkle in it and some oil is leaking here. Check your transfluid level (straight slotted dip stick in the floor to the rear of the gear shifter) to see if it is over-filled?). A small amount of oil on a tractor will collect a lot of dirt so a small leak can seem to look larger than it is.
For the clutch/brake cylinders the first one will take you hr the other 2 about 20 minutes. The clutch slave looks difficult at first, but when you get the internal cylinder out of the housing (remove the unit from the clutch arm, slip off the rubber cover and if you press the clutch pedal in the cab the cylinder will slide out the end be careful to push the clutch pedal slowly, otherwise the cylinder will shoot out and you will have to search for where it ended up stopping). The technology is simple replace the rubber O ring I put some grease on the non-brake fluid side to ease friction and slide the cylinder back into the housing and your done.
Replacing the brake fluid take at least 2 people three is better 1 to pump the pedal, 1 to open and close the bleed valve and 1 to keep the fluid reservoir full so you dont suck in any air. If you get 3 litres of brake fluid you can do both the clutch and the brakes and be sure that all the air and dirty old fluid is out.
The last thing I noticed was on the brakes below the rear brake slaves are arms with pivot points these pivot points need some lubrication because they have a tendency to stick - which will lock your brake in the ON position not good! The problem here is a small amount of friction at the pivots combined with a return spring which is not strong enough to return the arm to the released position. The actual brakes are inside the axel you cant see them you will just be able to see the slave, return spring, arms and pivot points when you remove the black plastic cover boxes. Get someone to pump the brakes and you can see how the brake slave and arms move it is pretty obvious where some lub is needed when you see it moving.
Good luck.
Hi Greg:
The master cylinders on the clutch and L and R brakes are all the same, but separate units. If your 4340 is ~ 8-10+ years old all will have to be replaced as they have a limited life. The replacements are of better manufacture. The masters are located above the pedals and the pedal drives the piston on each unit. The slave is attached to the bell housing on the transmission LH side right below the pedal - you will need to go under the tractor to work on it. A slave repair kit is available from Zetor ~ $5. The rubber seal wares out on the internal piston in the slave. They are all easy replacements. Be sure to pump lots of brake fluid through after to get rid of the bubbles.
The bleed valve on the slave if the nipple - careful you don't brake it off, and the L and R brake bleeds are in the rear where the brake lines join the rear slaves - under the small black boxes in the back by the 3 pt hitch.
Good Luck!
Thanks....nice to hear from you, and I hope this goes fairly simply. Anything else you think might be helpful will be appreciated. While I'm thinking of it, I have a transmission/hydraulic fluid leak, and it seems to be coming from the top of the transmission, and running down the side close to the clutch slave cylinder. Is this a common leak for the 4340, or is it just mine?
Greg
Greg:
Mine is a 1995 4340 FEL with ~1800 hrs and I have no fluid leaks anywhere. If you have a leak coming from the top of the trans I would look close at the top rear of the motor for a oil leak at the head or the valve cover. It is possible that the valve cover gasket seal has a wrinkle in it and some oil is leaking here. Check your transfluid level (straight slotted dip stick in the floor to the rear of the gear shifter) to see if it is over-filled?). A small amount of oil on a tractor will collect a lot of dirt so a small leak can seem to look larger than it is.
For the clutch/brake cylinders the first one will take you hr the other 2 about 20 minutes. The clutch slave looks difficult at first, but when you get the internal cylinder out of the housing (remove the unit from the clutch arm, slip off the rubber cover and if you press the clutch pedal in the cab the cylinder will slide out the end be careful to push the clutch pedal slowly, otherwise the cylinder will shoot out and you will have to search for where it ended up stopping). The technology is simple replace the rubber O ring I put some grease on the non-brake fluid side to ease friction and slide the cylinder back into the housing and your done.
Replacing the brake fluid take at least 2 people three is better 1 to pump the pedal, 1 to open and close the bleed valve and 1 to keep the fluid reservoir full so you dont suck in any air. If you get 3 litres of brake fluid you can do both the clutch and the brakes and be sure that all the air and dirty old fluid is out.
The last thing I noticed was on the brakes below the rear brake slaves are arms with pivot points these pivot points need some lubrication because they have a tendency to stick - which will lock your brake in the ON position not good! The problem here is a small amount of friction at the pivots combined with a return spring which is not strong enough to return the arm to the released position. The actual brakes are inside the axel you cant see them you will just be able to see the slave, return spring, arms and pivot points when you remove the black plastic cover boxes. Get someone to pump the brakes and you can see how the brake slave and arms move it is pretty obvious where some lub is needed when you see it moving.
Good luck.
