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4340 clutch problem

I was talking about bleeding the BRAKE slave cylinders...
It's correct that the clutch slave cylinder is aside of the clutch housing of course..
 
Don't open the bleed screws too far or you will never get all the air out as the master cylinder only pumps a tiny amount of fluid.In the UK I have found those one man bleeders with a ball valve on the end of the pipe to be very good for one man bleeding.Classic car people sell them.I am also using silicone brake fluid as it doen't absorb moisture.It seems to be OK and I have never had problems-despite the scare stories.It was invented for the US Military so that one fluid could be used whether the vehicle was operating in the Artic Circle or the Desert.My Crystal gets used on slurry spreading and I used to have problems with the slave cylinders corroding when the Rubber dust caps perished.When I put new seals on I used two plastic lids from 500 ml gear oil bottles as a cover over the rubber dust seal and have had no more problems!!
 
Thanks for all the info - it was a big help !

My clutch problem was the slave cylinder on the trans housing - more specifically the rubber seal/cuff on the internal piston in the cylinder. The piston slips out the bottom of the slave cylinder (just disengage the cylinder from the clutch arm and depress the clutch pedal). Once the piston is out a new rubber seal ring/cuff for $5 solves the problem (along with a complete beed of the clutch brake system after everyting is put back together).

It looks like the friction from the unlubricated side of the cylinder eroded the rubber seal over time. This time I lubricated the end of the cylinder(the end not exposed to brake fluid) with a little grease to reduce the friction when the piston is forced down the cylinder.

This was a much easier fix than I was anticipating. It took all of 1/2 hour after I figured out the actual problem. Thanks for helpfull discussion for everyone!
 

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