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4341 clutch pedal flops to the floor

barryinmn

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Feb 5, 2004
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barryinmn
I last drove it in Oct. Worked fine. Today go to startup and clear 14.5" snowfall & no clutch.

Added fluid to the reservoir (it was low) no change. Noticed an oil spot on the floor below the clutch pedal & took a look - small cylinder ram was extended & cylinder rubber boot looked wet. Pushed on the rod & oil gushed out the boot!

What should I do next? Rebuild or replace?

Tractor cab & loader was bought new 3 years ago & has 215 hours on it, first substantial problem...
 
Hi Barry,

It's not normally worth re-sealing the cylinders as they get rusty when they stand. You could strip the cylinder and check the state of the bore as it hasn't done many hours. Make sure the piston isn't coming right out of the cylinder when the pedal is pressed. If it does you have a thrust bearing problem inside the tractor.
 
welcome to the world of bad clutch and brake cylinders. I would recommend replacing with the new ones.George
 
I hate to disagree with the previous posts, but we have found it perfectly satisfactory to re- rubber the slave and master cylinders.
I must add though that it is essential to lightly hone the cylinders, which can be done without removing them from the tractor.
I use a snap-on hone which fits on a drill. not very expensive. Use brake fluid as a lubricant and rinse when done with brake fluid. All our tractors have had this done over the years !!
 
For the price of a Snap-on hone plus a cylinder rebuild kit, you could replace all 3 master cylinders with new ones ;)
 
Well, the master seems to pump good, slave is rusted & definitely rough. Thing is nobody stocks this part or rebuild kit within 100mi and everybody knows they fail!!! One dealer would pull one off a tractor on the lot for extra charge.

Another 12" snow headed here tomorrow.

Internet supplier is overnight shipping one today.

Nice thing is the slave takes all of 5 mins to remove.

Zetor might have an opportunity to pool dealer inventories and show 1 click availability. Similar to JD.

I don't mind paying full retail if it is in stock locally. Paying full retail plus shipping plus waiting gets me looking for other options.

Anybody know how the new parts are different to reduce the apparent 100% failure mode? $47 dollar part stops the tractor dead.

In the car parts design world this might be considered safety critical & be addressed.
 
Renze, Have you ever tried to replace the brake master cylinders on a 7245 ?
I think if you had you would see why the re -rubber option has its advantages. I would aggree with you about Crystal master cyls, but not slave cyls as the costs of rubber on them is minimal.
Dave
 
The brake master cylinders on a 7245 can be replaced in under a hour!
 
AlaOn Wed Feb 28 20:21:20 2007, Dave P wrote: (read quoted post)
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Slave Cyls maybe, but master cylinders ?

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Yes brake master cylinders can be replaced in under one hour
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Alan, how do you get at them easily ?
 
Remove the large square front panel from the front of the cab (4 M8 bolts & 2 screws at the bottom) slacken the 2 banjo bolts on the end of master cylinders, slacken brake pipes on master cylinders, slacken & remove 2 M8 mounting bolts on each master cylinder, remove banjo bolts c/w copper washers, draw master cylinder forward, hold brake pipe unwind master cylinder from brake pipe. Refitting is reversal of above procedure
 
Alan,
Thanks. I've looked at them from the cab and decided it wasnt worth the trouble taking then off !!
If I get any more trouble I'll do as you suggest.
Now 1st of march is here the hedge trimmer will come off and the tractor may do a bit of real work for a change.
Regards, Dave
 
I replaced all 3 master cylinders easily from the front. I havent thought of taking off the front cab panel... Even from inside the cab i replaced them within the hour, and 2 hours for all 3...
 
All is well in Zetorland again. Slave is replaced and the 30" of heavy wet snow is cleared.
 

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