5211- Another darn Clutch thread (problem).

[ken_abbott]

Let the 5211 setup for about two months. Went out, started right up, but couldn't get the clutch to disengage. Checked the hydralic, linkage, total distance of throw and found all in good shape. Looked into inspection door and could see throw out bearing working well, no problem. Fingers all seemed to be correct. Went through service manual top to bottom, everything seems right.
With the wet weather here in Texas, I figure the plates are just stuck together. Any suggestions on disengaging clutch plate without haveing to separate tractor would be greatly appreciated. Small hammer or big hammer, I can use them both.
We even started the tractor in 1st gear trying to jar something loose, it just drove forward like it had no problem.

 

[dgo3512]

read somewhere here about chaining to tree or unmovable object. assume you leave slack in chain and start up jerk should unstick plates when load is put on. must have foot depressing clutch.

 

[ken_abbott]

Not bad Grego, I would think that would work. I get the understanding of why that might separate stuck plates. Now, you think my wife, who tends to be an unmovable object at times, would work.

 

[dgo3512]

most wives are like that.

 

[ixer0]

HI Ken

Make sure the buttress cap are all whole. Thes are the little caps the release levers pivot on.

Regards

Mike

 

[olredhead]

Hope you have better luck with yours than we have had with the 6340 in the mentioned post. Tried 1st gear up to 4th, slack in the chain and all. Dug some nice holes with all 4 tires, stretched a fine ole clevis all out of shape and shook the holy heck out of a huge elm but the clutch still not disengage. Guess we'll pull the loader and get ready to break it apart.

 

[dgo3512]

if you have to split, i used a 5000# pound engine hoist to hold up engine half and blocked up rear half. be sure to clamp or block frame to axle housing so the engine does not tip to one side. be sure to get a luk clutch. hoppy tractoring.

 

[olredhead]

Please tell me more about this "Luk" clutch. Better , stronger,where to buy ?

 

[ken_abbott]

I also would like to find out where to purchase this "Luk" clutch. It appears that finding the right setup parts for breaking a tractor in half is the whole battle. I just can't see us doing that with any margin of safety with the tools, stands and hoists we have. If things go wrong(falling, tilting), they go wrong fast. Someone could get hurt bad.
If I have to break it apart, there's no doubt a reliable clutch is going back in. It seems that "Luk" has won ever allot of the forum folks here. I would like to hear more about it and where to purchase it.

 

[dgo3512]

spent twenty minutes typing steps out for you and had a server error and lost it all. fingers too tired to do it again. you can call me at 615 -406-8627 and i can let you in on how i did it. and how you can do it better.

 

[Renze]

We use to block the front axle pivot with wooden wedges, and support the front end with a hydraulic workshop jack, on those little steel wheels. It's easier to put a steel sheet underneath the jack, to make it roll easier if you have a brick paved workshop floor like i have.

The 280mm diameter clutch sometimes was a bit weak for repeating work. Some tractors were converted to 310mm clutch as the stronger models (7745) had.
Clutches come in two versions, with organic and cerametallic linings. The cerametallic version holds up pretty good, its mostly the 280mm organic version that sometimes wears a bit faster than one might expect.

 

[treaney]

Please tell me more about this "Luk" clutch. Better , stronger,where to buy ?

http://www.lukclutch.com/about/

Zetor are advertising this as standard factory fitting on the Proxima.

 

[dave_peters]

Be warned though, although the cerametallic plates last a lot longer, when they do go it invariably means that the flywheel has to be skimmed since it will be badly scored and the pressure plate replaced.
Dave

 

[ken_abbott]

This might help the next guy who has this problem. There was no way in the world we had the supports or could get the supports cheaply. There was no way I was going to jerk the tractor with a chain tied to a tree, possibly killing someone with a flying chain. So, we went ahead and pressed in the clutch and blocked it, hoping to relieve some of the pressure and allow it to pull apart. After two weeks of this, I drove the darn tractor around the ranch 3 times, with the clutch held in all the time and pushing in the brake (probably needs some new shoes, but O well). After three times around and no luck, I got mad at the dam thing and JAMMED the brake on, darn near twisting the tractor into a screw, BAM, it released, problem fixed.
Our next attempt if this didn't work was to tighten up on the threaded rods that attach to the plate (you can easily get to these threaded rods, don't know there name) and really pull the plates apart, and then reset the nuts to origanel postion. Would this have worked???.

 

[Renze]

There was an instruction sticker on the self loading hay wagon of my neighbor - a 1970's single axle Strautmann

it said, slacken the bolt tension of the PTO torque limiting slip clutch, turn the PTO shaft and retighten the spring bolts, before starting a new hay season, to make sure that the slip clutch isnt sticking, to keep the correct torque value.

 

[dave_peters]

I have had to split a tractor with this problem. When we took the clutch apart it was suprising just how little the friction plate was stuck to the flywheel with what appeared to be either oil or grease. We used brake cleaner aerosol to clean it up and put it back together without doing anything else. Question is ..Where did the grease come from in the first place? Fitters oily fingers ? spigot bearing was OK and hadn't leaked.
Dave

 

[dgo3512]

I found a dead critter inside the bellhousing, fur guts and blood everywhere. blood rusted plates together. While the tractor was apart went ahead a replaced with LUK.