5245 Been Sitting, Now clutch problems

[brucep]

For all sorts of reasons, my 5245 has been sitting for the last year. I got her started quite easily the other day, but I am having clutch problems. Namely, when I step on the clutch peddle, it is VERY hard to push. The tractor will not move, i.e. clutch out and nothing. I can freely move the gear selector around (all gears) without anything happening (when I am running). When I last ran the tractor, everything worked fine, including the clutch...though I did notice I had a leak in the clutch/brake fluid.

I loosened the slave clutch cylinder line and was bathed in dark fluid. Now the clutch peddle drops to the floor, with a nice little squirt of clean fluid. I decided to remove the slave cylinder and replace it (part is in the mail).

I accidently rubbed against the boot on the slave cylinder, which brough the boot and cyclinder inside out on my chest, with a bigger bath of fluid. The cylinder was dirty...mud...and I can find it easy to believe that this was stuck in the "peddle down" position for the last year sitting...????...but I really don't know.

The "clutch finger", that the hydraulic pushrod pushes to engage/disengage the clutch, is extremely hard to move. I was able to move the finger towards the rear of the tractor, simulating the hydraulic action, using a winch to pull on it, but it gets "stuck" in that position and I have to pound it forward with a hammer.

I'm a total newbie. I assume there is a spring in the clutch assembly that should return this back to the "engaged" position when I release the clutch pedal. Is this the purpose of the pressure plate in the clutch?

My guess is that something has seized/rusted together within the clutch, preventing the clutch from returning to its engaged position, and hence I am getting no power to the tranny. Hydraulic pump works fine, enagegs/disengages with the left lever as it should. I also have tried in both HIGH and LOW range...no power at all to the tranny.

Are there inspection ports I can look inside and see what is happening? I have a local mechanic available for help ...and he suspects there's a problem inside the clutch...and we have to split the tractor to fix.

Any help/suggestions/comments would be great.

Thanks!

 

[Renze]

Grease the clutch lever shaft, on which the cylinder pushes, MoS2 can do miracles too.

 

[brucep]

I will try that next. I received the new clutch slave cylinder so hope to get that in soon.

Should I be able to move the clutch lever with my bare hand? I'm a big guy, but not superhuman or built like Arnold....does this international forum all know who Arnold is? I love the international flavor of this site....fantastic way for normal folks to get to know each other around the world, from all places, and all walks of life.

Thanks!
Bruce

 

[treaney]

In my best Austrian accent - "Ve know who Arnold is" - HumVee driver and currently chaperone to one GWB. 69)

 

[brucep]

Indeed, that is Arnold....watching all the nasty fires in southern caalllleeefooorrrnia.

I installed the clutch slave cylinder, and when I press on the clutch peddle now, the clutch "level" never pushes back when I release the clutch.

I greased the zerks on both sides of the "clutch level arm", on either side of the bell housing.

I used the front end loader to shake the tractor around as good as I can...with no help .

I opened the inspection plate on the left side of the housing...after taking off the battery box...and I can clearly see the clutch assembly...though I'm not sure what I am looking at.

I am starting to feel that the throwout bearing really is stuck "in", disengaging the clutch.

Any ideas of what I can try through the access hole? Can I pry back the throwout bearing? Can I bang on it with something? Can I spray something into the cavity with hopes that it helps it to release? Should I be able to see the throw out bearing "fork" that pushes the bearing forward towards the engine to disengage?

Any ideas/suggestions would be great....

Thanks!

 

[brucep]

One more question....there's a plate on the bottom of the housing, a few inches back of the side inspection plates towards the tranny. Is this a clutch access point of some kind? Or is this back inside the transmission? It's pretty big, maybe 5" long and 10" wide? Seems like it would be too far back to be an inspection plate......

Thanks.

 

[zetor3545]

NO!! dont remove this unless you wont to be covered in all the trany oil this is where you can look up inside the box. on my 3545 you can see the pto lever selector and gear.

matthew

 

[Renze]

Ah, i remember something:

The clutch plates tend to rust together.
Tie it to a strong tree, press down the clutch pedal and start pulling.
When you pull hard enough the clutch will free. just a little bit of movement is enough to free it, and perform just like it never happened

Just make sure you get that movement

 

[dgo3512]

On the inspection plate there is a tube with a cap on it. The tube is bent to angle down to the throwout sleeve. Use afunnel and pour some buster( pb blaster, Liquid wrench etc.) Keep doing that and working clutch pedal. After if frees up then pour 30 wt ocassionally, usally four or five drops after it is un stuck. Manuals tell you to lube here .

 

[brucep]

Thanks for your suggestions guys. We did place some oil inside and used a prybar to "move" things around. I don't know what things are called....so bear with me. The assembly that pushes forward to disengage the clutch now moves somewhat freely....everything was rusted up.

But, now the actual throwout bearing seems to be rusted tight. I sprayed a can (actually two) of the Pb buster stuff and liquid wrench onto the splined shaft where I can just see it....and still haven't managed to get it free.

Now I totally understand what that red cap is on the inspection plate....the tube on the other side is fillled with crud/rust.

So, I am still without the ability to transfer power to the tranny.

I ran the machine for about an hour hoping the heat might help to break something free. It seems that the prybar is the only thing that has made a difference. But, I don't see how I can get into the "right spot" to break this throwout bearing free.

It also means I think that splitting the tractor isn't going to be easy, since the shaft is apparently rusted to the bearing in the clutch plate.

So, now when I push the clutch in, there is no restoring force pushing it back out. I have to pry the clutch peddle "stick" back towards the engine with a prybar. I assume the springs inside the clutch are not able to overcome the rust....

Any other thoughts would be great....

Thanks.

 

[zetor3545]

myself i would split it. remove the pressure plate and ispect the plates whilst i ther free things up new pilot and thrust bearing.

and enjoy a great tractor ( once youve done the above )

gd luck matt

 

[ixer0]

Hi,

If you struggle to split it. Unbolt the clutch through the inspection cover and let the clutch go away with the back end. The only thing left holding it will be the pilot bearing in the flywheel.
A good tip is throw the circlip away holding the bearing into the flywheel - it helps if your problem arises.

Regards

Mike

 

[brucep]

Well, I bit the bullet and called the dealer. I tried everything I could do...nothing seemed to budge.

He tried to break it free pulling it back and forth a bit between two other machines...no luck...so it was split. Apparently it was a real pain...the bearing was seized to the shaft. New bearings, new clutch plate....

I'm not sure what the final cost will be...there was some other work done as well. But, I look forward to getting it back...its Spring and there's a garage/addition to build!

Thanks for all your suggestions/help .