5245 with broken pto/hydralic selector

[smpickens2001]

I recently purchased a 1990 5245 with 1300 hours on it. It had sat on the dealers lot for quite some time but had the engine and clutch rebuilt when it was traded in by the prvious owner. After about 1 hour of light use, a fuel line and the power steering resevouir line both blew. While fixing those, I noticed a large amount of debris in the sediment bowl which I cleaned out. After that, the pto/hydralic selector broke while I was attempting to put it in the forward most position. I have been told it is most likely that a weld between the selector arm and the actautor broke. To fix it they will need to remove the top of the transmission case. I have also noticed the Hi-Lo gear selector is acting "stiff" like the pto/hydralic selector did before it snapped. Besides the transmission, what else shold I have the mechanics look at while it is in the shop? I have noticed some of the loader hoses and the power steering arm hose have some splits but no leakage yet.

I will be using the 5245 to drag downed trees, move large rocks and plow snow on a Colorado property located at 9000 feet. I have also been told the Zetors don't like to sit idle for extended periods, which mine will while I am away from the property. Is the 5245 well suited for this type of work? Do you think I should invest in the necessary repairs to get it operational or get my $8995 back from the dealer. I appreciate any suggestions. thanks.

 

[Renze]

Just warm the engine up gently and use all of those 50 horses when the engine is at the correct temperature. Just burn it clean a few times a year.

The levers, i have no idea but it sounds like it's inside the transmission ?
Do the levers move when you take the click bolt out and move it with a screw driver ? If not, it would be in the lever itself.


...i dont know how capable your dealer is, but i allway solve that problem by putting a new pin in the bottom end of the lever, that connects it to the little shaft that goes inside... Even a nail (for wood) works if it's the correct size.
Check that out first, i think it's just a snipped pin. Did they check that, or just assumed the worst ??

 

[Colorado Zetor]

I am pretty sure they assumed the worst and will be removing the top off of the transmission case to work on the connection between the lever and whatever it is attached to. There is absolutely no resistance on the lever now so I figured it is completely snapped off inside.

 

[Colorado Zetor]

The 5245 is in the shop now so I cant look at it myself, but I dont recall seeing any pins or other attachment points on the lever base where it could be removed. Maybe I just missed it. I will give the dealer a call to ask about your suggestion. I read some info in the owners manual regarding warming up the engine. What do you reccomend to get it to the right temp and what is the correct tempurature to reach before I start working? By the way, this forum is an awesome resource to keep up with repair work and other issues associated with Zetors. Thanks!!

 

[markku]

If there is no resist on the lever it is propably the pin that Renze said.... 3 inch nail is doog for there....

Its weard some pin works over 10 000 hours, but another only 4000 hours? Too tight machining in the gearbox?

 

[Renze]

the lever has an eye that slides over the shaft, and is connected with a pin. This pin is actually a C shaped stift spring.

Correct working temperature, it depends on the weather. In winter time, i try to get it to 60C before having it working, and when it's above 75C i put it to 100% power. As long as the temperature gauge doesn't meet the first line of the scale, (40 ??) i keep it under 1500 rpm and take it easy.

This is just my procedure. 90% of the wear on a Diesel occurs at cold winter starting. I've heard of a tractor that drove a water pump in a coal mine 24/7,it was only shut off few times to change oil and filters, so it was allways kept at workign temperature. it lasted about 40.000 hours !!!

These engines seem to be happiest when they, few times a year, work at 100% power at around 2000 rpm to burn the coal from the combustion chamber. (100% power, i mean a centimeter extra working depth will immediately drop it to 1800 rpm) But dont get past 110C.

 

[crystalman]

Do the US spec tractors have the roller blind on the radiator to speed warm up in cold weather? You can get an engine block heater but I don't know how easy it would be to obtain from a US Zetor dealer.Over here in the UK you can get after market ones that fit in one of the hoses to pre heat the engine before you want to use the tractor.They are sold as a fuel economy device for cars here as we don't have a severe winter like Colorado.

 

[Colorado Zetor]

Thanks for all the assistance. The dealer replaced the C ring/pin and the selector is operating fine. No need to get inside the transmission...thank goodness!!! In response to Crystalman, my particular 5245 has an engine black heater but no radiator blind or cover to increase the engine temperature faster. I suppose it is possible to make something yourself out of a piece of tarp/fire resistant material. I may try that since the temperature is quite often below 0*.