7245 Slow hydralics

[slowalker]

My 7245 has real slow hydralics and the front end loader is doing good to lift 100lbs.
So far I replaced the filter ,new fluid,pulled /cleaned the screen ,replaced the pump ,replaced the safety/popoff valve .
I have tryed every combo of inner /outer circut but still slow.
I looked in the manusl and it says that in the 540 PTO the flow is 8.4 gpm and at 1000 PTO it is 13.4 gpm.In the manual it shows that to the left on the PTO shat drive lever it is 540 ,center is N and right is 1000.
On mine left is the 540 and to the right is N but it does not go any further right then N.
So I read in the manual on how to change the 6 spline 540 shat out and install the 21 sline 1000 shaft ,if I take the 1000 shaft out from under the shift lever and install it at the rear of the tractor [PTO output] and then put the 540 under the shaft drive lever slot, will this speed the PTO/pump up to the 1000 RPM giving me 13.4 GPM at the pump.Will this help with my slow week hydralics?
THANKS

 

[Renze]

there is a lever sticking out of the vertical part of the floor, right in front of the seat, on your right hand side. try twisting it to either horizontally left, or horizontally right. its a flow divider/reducer which can cut the oil flow.

Also, does the 3pt lift the full capacity, and does it give good pressure on the external remote valves on the rear end ? Sometimes the safety valve on the loader valve block is bust, if yours has one.

using 1000rpm for hydraulic duty means you will have to stay at 1300-1400rpm or the pump is at risk of cavitation. the owners manual states that in 1000rpm PTO the oil pump should only be used for lifting the PTO implement on the headland, not for continuous hydraulic takeoff.

 

[slowalker]

I tryed the flow splitter befor and it does not improve the loader situation.
On the 3 point hitch I don't have any impliment to try to raise or lower to see if it has any lifting power ,so I went out and looped a chain around it and down to the rear hitch on my pickup truck and tryed to lift the back end off the ground . It tryed to lift in that it moved the body up but it could not lift the back of the truck off the ground.
I'm not familiar with it's lifting ability so should it be able to raise the back end of a pickup off the ground or not??
I went out and tryed lifting the back of the pickup with the loader ,lifting in the same spot I used for the 3 point and the loader will hardly even move the body ,so comparing it to the 3 point the 3 point is quite abit stronger.

Regarding the safety valve on the loader block ,where would I find it to see if it is the problem.

THANKS

THANKS Dale

 

[zipperno]

Do you have any tractor shops nearby so you can borrow a tester to see what the hydraulic pressure is like?

Like this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TGyH7TDrdHQ

 

[slowalker]

Thanks
closest shop is 300 kil away but I know a local guy that might have one.
I watched the video ,I already put a new internal pump and popoff valve in and nothing changed so I assume when I plug the guage into the loader outlet feed it will read low based on how slow and poor lift the loader has, but is there a place that I could check the pressure to the 3 point ?
I assume if the 3 point reads good but the loader outlet reads poor that would tell me the problem is in the loader control valve?
If they both are poor then there is some internal problem?

THANKS

 

[zipperno]

On the 7245 you should have hydraulic outlet quick couplers on the rear of the tractor. If you measure on the loader first and then the rear you will know if the pump is good.

Even though you have changed alot of parts you could have an internal leak somewhere?

Measure the pressure first.

 

[slowalker]

OK
Got a gauge ,went to the back of the tractor and there are 2 hydralic outlets that part of the loader is plugged into ,one says out flow and the other says inflow.
Unhooked the outflow line and put the gauge in to it,when I tipped up the bucket it read 460 PSI, I even tryed moveing the flow divider to different positions to see if the flow changed but it didn;t make any dif ,stayed at 460.
Just to see I hooked that line back up and put the gauge into the inflow ,got the same 460PSi.
So that is nowhere near the pressure I'm suppose to get.
Seeing i already replaced the pump and the safty valve and filters and fluid there must be an internal problem.
At this point with no one/ shop in the area to work on it ,I think it would be easiest to put and external pump off the front of the engine .I did a search on here and found where guys had mentioned doing this and talk about a plate you have to change to get the oil to flow out of and back into the tractor.I assume they are talking about the plate on the bottom that the internal pump is bolted to ??
Could someone recommend a pump that would work {specs] and where to get the plate and how to route things.I asume a guy should also have a filter and a saftey {popoff] valve in the new circuit as well.
THANKS

 

[forterra9641]

OK
Got a gauge ,went to the back of the tractor and there are 2 hydralic outlets that part of the loader is plugged into ,one says out flow and the other says inflow.
Unhooked the outflow line and put the gauge in to it,when I tipped up the bucket it read 460 PSI, I even tryed moveing the flow divider to different positions to see if the flow changed but it didn;t make any dif ,stayed at 460.
Just to see I hooked that line back up and put the gauge into the inflow ,got the same 460PSi.
So that is nowhere near the pressure I'm suppose to get.
Seeing i already replaced the pump and the safty valve and filters and fluid there must be an internal problem.
At this point with no one/ shop in the area to work on it ,I think it would be easiest to put and external pump off the front of the engine .I did a search on here and found where guys had mentioned doing this and talk about a plate you have to change to get the oil to flow out of and back into the tractor.I assume they are talking about the plate on the bottom that the internal pump is bolted to ??
Could someone recommend a pump that would work {specs] and where to get the plate and how to route things.I asume a guy should also have a filter and a saftey {popoff] valve in the new circuit as well.
THANKS

The first thing to check if you have poor pressure after mounting a New pump and valve is the o-ring between the pump plate and the gearbox. on the rim of the plate there is a small piece of pipe only a few cm long wich has i think two o-rings on it, if the o rings wasent changed or you werent aware of this when you changed pump, Your pressure can be dissapearing there. check this first (Y)

 

[slowalker]

I just went in and looked in the bag with the old pump [I kept everything that I replaced ]and there is 2 o-rings there with all the copper washers.
Plus what are the chances that it is doing the EXACT same thing it was doing befor [slow powerless hydralics], that is why I changed the pump,then when that didn't fix it I was told to change the pop off valve , did that but still doing the EXACT same thing.
To me it is less frustraiting to have an external pump and only use the tractor system to get oil out of and bypass all the inner hydralic workings of the tractor.

THANKS

 

[bjarne_iversen]

Hi
Sinse you aiireadi has new pump and presure valve the problem is higer upp and mounting a exstern pump akjives notting. The topp cover have the same type conector pipe as the pumpplate and there are several points on the valveblock vere things can get out plase and cose leaks. Also chek the pipe that goes troh the diffhousing, there have ben pipes that have craced before.
Bjarne

 

[slowalker]

THANKS
You were right it was the metal tube that feeds hydralic fluid from the pump to the distribution block and runs threw the rear diff.
THANKS