7745 with noisy transmission

[juney68]

I just purchased a 7745 at auction. This is my first Zetor and have never even operateed one before now. It has a very noisy transmission and I was wondering if this is normal for these tractors or do I have a problem. With the clutch pedal pushed in it is quiet. In neutral, with clutch pedal out, there is some noise, but not too bad. When operated in first through fourth, it is very noisy. When in 5th, it is still some noise, but much less than 1st through 4th. The noise is not a grinding or knocking noise, but more of a gear whining/meshing noise. I do not have a manual yet, so I am not sure if maybe it has the wrong oil in it or something simple like that. Does it take hydraulic or gear oil and is the transmission and rear end oil housing all together or seperate ? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, juney68

 

[zetor3545]

first of all check the oil

we purchased a forklift which had the same problem. when the clutch was in it was quiet when clutch was out it was scream and bang. when we took of the gearbox lid we found all beaings had finished.

usually wed use SUTO oil (super universal tractor oil) this does backends and is very good.

 

[dave_peters]

I agree with Matthew.
The transmission, rear end and hydraulics all use the same oil.
The dipstick is under a rubber plug in the floor covering between your feet, attached to the filler plug. It takes 34 lt. to the top mark and 27 to the middlemark with the dipstick screwed in. dont fill to the top mark unless you are tipping a very large trailer or working on steep land.
These gearboxes are not normally noisy.
Dave

 

[rancher]

My 6320 Zetor has always had a noisy transmisson but ran well.

 

[markku]

Hmm...

If you have 4WD connected, it keeps some noice at high speeds, like when H4 and H5 is connected...

 

[ixer0]

Hi
Just to add to Markku's post.
Does it whine when not in 4WD and by the way you must not use it in 4WD on hard surfaces.

Mike

 

[juney68]

Ok, thanks to everyone for all the ideas. It was about 8 ltr's low on oil so I added but this made no difference. I also cannot tell any difference when its in 4wd, and I have not had it on hard surfaces in 4wd. I did take the magnet out and check and clean it. It did have some metal on it, but nothing big. Just very fine particles. Is this normal ? Is there a cover plate on this tractor like was talked about on the forklift that I can take off to check the bearings ? I have to say there is no banging, just more of a whine. Also, I tried all the different selections for the PTO and hyd pump and this also made no difference. Any ideas as to why it is quiet in 5th ? Thanks. juney

 

[markku]

Mike,

I have been using my 6245 (equipped with No-Spin diff lock)several winters all the time 4wd on. I have studded ice chains on front wheel and no chains at rear. Im driving a lot at roads, asphalt coated too, pulling log trailer.
So im doing all wrong

Now it has 4500 hours on it and i opened it few years ago, but there was only fine surface worn on the gears where 4wd shaft comes out from gearbox.

I think many other brand would not last in my use

But Zetor is still going and going.....

 

[zetor3545]

small metal particles id expect. if your oil is all ok well it may be ok. for instance david brown tractors have noisy transmissions due to stright cut teeth on the gears. dont know if all models are though. my 3545 whines in 4th and 5th.

matthew

 

[bjarne_iversen]

The 5. gear locks the clutsshaft to the main gearshaft,innside it is a small bearing that cold make the noice, it stops moving vhen in 5.geare.It cold olso be the syncro for the 5. gear thats whinig.

 

[juney68]

Ok, thanks again. I think what 4911 is saying may be what it is. I was thinking something like this myself, as I know alot of transmissions(maybe all) are direct in high gear. I never thought of the synchroniser aspect though, this also makes sense. I assuming 4911, that I have to pull the engine out to make these repairs ? Also, Dave mentioned not filling the oil to the top mark. I actually overfilled it some and now I have oil dripping out from between the transmission and engine, in the clutch area. Is this why you said not to overfill or do I have a seal bad ? Thanks, juney.

 

[dave_peters]

You probably have a seal that is leaking. I'm afraid you have to split the tractor to get at them. This is not a big deal if you have some help and the tools, and it lets you check the clutch while its apart. The seals are on the gearbox main shaft and the PTO shaft in the centre of the main shaft.
The reason not to fill to top mark unless necessary is that these seals and the seals into the brakes tend to seep when they get old and hard and the oil is permanently above them.
Where are you located ?
Dave

 

[juney68]

Thanks for the info Dave. I'm in VA, USA. juney

 

[juney68]

I also wanted to ask about the centrifugal oil filter. This is my first experience with these. I took it apart and cleaned the black grime off the inside wall. I'm assuming this is what you are supposed to do ? I still don't fully understand how it works though. ??? juney

 

[dave_peters]

Juney,
It spins when the oil is being forced out of the 2 jets. The dirt deposits in the oil are thrown outwards and stick to the wall as you saw, any bits of metal or other rubbish in the oil is prevented from going back into the sump by the gauze filter in the centre.
You were right to clean off the black gunk, just make sure its all clean and the holes in the jets are clear and remember that the unit is dynamically balanced , so it is important to make sure that the 2 marks on the bottom flanges are lined up before you do up the big nut on top.
Dave
(From SW UK)

 

[juney68]

Thanks Dave,
I've got a couple more questions. For the clutch throw out bearing, it says lubricate every 200hrs(i think). Do you just use engine oil here and how much ? Also, the pto lever on the left side of the seat says something like 5 min/max on it. What does this mean ? Is there a fuse diagram download anywhere online ? Where is the best place/prices on manuals ? Thanks for all of your help . juney

 

[dave_peters]

Juney
For the clutch throughout bearing use just a few drops of your normal engime or transmission oil.
When you lift the PTO clutch lever it has the same effect as the foot pedal has on the main clutch,so leaving it in the up position will lead to premature wear and possible overheating not to mention wear on the throwout bearing, so its a good idea to not leave it up at all unless its just , for example, when you are using a muckspreader and you want to turn at the end of a row. Do you know that if you put the air compressor in gear once the air is up , when you push the main clutch pedal all the way down it will operate the PTO clutch, also the lever will then be air assisted to make it easier to lift.
I'll scan a page from the ownwers manual with the fuse diagram, and attach it to the next message, Im not good at multi tasking and would probably lose this one if I tried it here !
Dave

 

[dave_peters]

Juney, Here is , I hope, a pic of the main fuse box. you may have another smaller one as well - that works items in the cab roof in UK spec tractors, but I don't know about US ones


Type "workshop manual " in the search box at the top of the forum page for places to get a book
Forget that !!
Try this, Scoll down to "dont know" then Type "Zetor " in the "search" box

Tractor Manual Search - Yesterday's Tractor Co.

Dave

 

[juney68]

Thanks Dave, That worked. I'm assuming that #8 is a spare as mine has nothing connected to it. I think I'm going to go ahead and try to use it some before I tear it apart to check the bearings. Really cold here right now. Is there any type of glow plugs or pre heater or cold weather starting techniques for these tractors. I hate ether. Also, you talked about the compressor, is it ok to leave the pump engaged all the time ?
Thanks juney

 

[alan]

To aid cold starting in sub zero tempratures a block heater can be fitted the part number is 6901-1730