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Brake replacement
- Thread starter swill
- Start date
- Joined
- Jul 5, 2003
- Messages
- 4,021
- Location
- Laag Zuthem
- First name
- Renze
Machinery:
1976 5718
1978 5718 35kmh: Work in progress
1967 3011
If you have a cab model, buy an engine hoist first. You need to take off the portals, which way a couple of hundred kilo.
On a cabless version you might be able to get by with a pulley on your shed truss when removing a mudguard.
Its about a day of work. release the hand brake tensioners on top of the rear axle, then undo the whole stuff and pull out the portal. (dont forget to drain the transmission oil first)
When reassembling, make sure you have enough clearance between the brake and drum: The linings are glued to aluminium pads, which expand more than the cast iron drums, when heated.
They need about 1 to 2mm play, and should slip on easily. I drilled the holes where the pushrods go, a little deeper with a 13mm drill (ground to make a radius hole) but not enough, after braking two or three times, the shoes grew from the heat, pushing them against the drum. It wore down untill there was enough clearance, but its better not to overheat them, they will live longer.
When you have the final drive portal off, there is a C shaped round stock ring that fixates the drum on the diff output shaft. undo that with a screwdriver before you ruin your pulley extractor tool on it
On a cabless version you might be able to get by with a pulley on your shed truss when removing a mudguard.
Its about a day of work. release the hand brake tensioners on top of the rear axle, then undo the whole stuff and pull out the portal. (dont forget to drain the transmission oil first)
When reassembling, make sure you have enough clearance between the brake and drum: The linings are glued to aluminium pads, which expand more than the cast iron drums, when heated.
They need about 1 to 2mm play, and should slip on easily. I drilled the holes where the pushrods go, a little deeper with a 13mm drill (ground to make a radius hole) but not enough, after braking two or three times, the shoes grew from the heat, pushing them against the drum. It wore down untill there was enough clearance, but its better not to overheat them, they will live longer.
When you have the final drive portal off, there is a C shaped round stock ring that fixates the drum on the diff output shaft. undo that with a screwdriver before you ruin your pulley extractor tool on it
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