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Coolant loss

boxersoft

Member
Level 2
Joined
Aug 4, 2007
Messages
46
First name
SteveR.
I drained and flushed the coolant from my 7341 a few weeks back and re-filled with fresh antifreeze mix. The first couple of times I used it after that, I checked the level and found I had to top it up a bit and didn't worry because I assumed that was due to airlocks clearing. I've had to do it several times now though - is this fairly normal?

I can't find any signs of coolant leaks anywhere, and I don't suppose it's supposed to "consume" water. I've heard that head-gasket leaks can cause water to escape the water jacket and mix with the engine oil. I checked the oil and it looks[/] OK to me (a bit dark, but not looking emulsified), and the engine seems to be running sweetly enough, but should I be worried anyway?

 
had the same problem on my old 7341 it was using water burning it up. it didnt go into oil but straight into combustion. you couldent notice it from the outside and the engine ran fine. but the water dissapeared.
 
Thanks, it's comforting to hear that it's not a problem. I'm at a loss to understand it though - I didn't think coolant was supposed to go anywhere near the combustion process.
 
its a problem it wont last long..... in worst case over night the coolant can fill the empty room between the piston and the top of the engine. so when you crank it over you can bust the top of engine damage piston and or valves..... the coolant runs just outside the cylindr liners and the only thing separating the coolant and combustion between the engine block and top is the headgasket.... you will probably find a busted headgasket to be your problem. Change it as soon as you got the chance
. its cheap and easy to fix :) good luck
 
Oh Gawd! I know you said it's cheap & easy but I've never tackled anything like a head gasket before so it sounds scary to me.

Is there anything I can do to confirm that's what it is without taking the head off? What exactly is involved in replacing it - does much have to be removed to get access etc.? Does it involve touching the valves at all, or timing, or anything else that would provide me with the opportunity to screw up big time?

 
i assume that you dont have a loader ? you have to readjust the valves when putting it back together. and tension the head bolts with the right torque. thats the critical parts that can go wrong. the easiest you could do is to buy a workshop manual for the super series engines. there its easily explained step by step how to do it. also to test it you could get a pressurizer and put pressure to the cooling system and see how fast it drops and if there are any leaks. most auto repair shops got them. so you could probably borrow one.
 
Yes, I've got a Howard front-end loader. I suppose that's got to come off - does that need a stand of some sort? The tractor came with the FEL attached, and I've never removed it.

I've got a workshop manual , I've been looking for it since you mentioned that it's a problem but I can't lay my hands on it at the moment (it's probably up at the barn - I'll go check tomorrow). I've got a torque wrench, that's no worry. I'll read what the book says about valve adjustment tomorrow...

Thanks for the information, much appreciated.
 

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