Zetor 6211 - Coolant Temperature Gauge

[diyfarmer]

Is it possible to check the thermostat while it is in thermostat housing.

The two ways you know if it's working is 1) the gauge would move to the last if the thermostat was stuck closed. or 2) the heater in the cab blows hot air when the tractor is warm from work.

 

[eoghan_nevin]

The two ways you know if it's working is 1) the gauge would move to the last if the thermostat was stuck closed. or 2) the heater in the cab blows hot air when the tractor is warm from work.

Did you have it open in the past?
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No gauge is always on zero ie on the left - so it must be stuck open ( going by previous sensor test discussed there right )? The heat in the cab does blow slightly warm air most of the time . So to me is the thermostat. Would I be right in saying there's a good chance replacing it will make the gauge read temperature again

Thanks

 

[eoghan_nevin]

Also regarding the earthing of the thermostat housing. I can't see any tab where a spade connection is made to earth it. Can't see where one has broken off earth. Only placing I can think off is a washer type piece in between housing and sensor , perhaps it broke of there ! How is the housing earthed on yours ?

 

[diyfarmer]

No gauge is always on zero ie on the left - so it must be stuck open ( going by previous sensor test discussed there right )? The heat in the cab does blow slightly warm air most of the time . So to me is the thermostat. Would I be right in saying there's a good chance replacing it will make the gauge read temperature again

Thanks
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As I have previously many times, overheating has always been a problem and the easy fix is to remove the thermostat, So if your tractor was red hot after a day mowing but the heater blows lukewarm air into the cab, then the thermostat is wrong.

When open the housing and fit a new thermostat the gauge should go up to 80C and stay around that.

In my HSX if your doing heavy work, the air out of the cab heater would cook you alive if you left it on full.

 

[eoghan_nevin]

As I have previously many times, overheating has always been a problem and the easy fix is to remove the thermostat, So if your tractor was red hot after a day mowing but the heater blows lukewarm air into the cab, then the thermostat is wrong.

When open the housing and fit a new thermostat the gauge should go up to 80C and stay around that.

In my HSX if your doing heavy work, the air out of the cab heater would cook you alive if you left it on full.

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Thanks I'll swap out the thermostat so, here's hoping the bolts don't shear.

Any ideas on the earthing of the housing ?

Thanks
Eoghan

 

[diyfarmer]

Thanks I'll swap out the thermostat so, here's hoping the bolts don't shear.

Any ideas on the earthing of the housing ?

Thanks
Eoghan


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As far as I know there is no earth wire at the housing, there is 1 wire coming to the sensor, the housing on most vehicles either car or tractor are made of an alloy so the earth is on the back of the clock.

 

[diyfarmer]

A lot of time I would have changed the sensor if a tractor gauge was showing zero, as many times you would push down the key but the clock hand would not move at all, but the water would warm up when the engine was hot, so if yours is staying only lukewarm it is a sign of thermostat not functioning properly

 

[eoghan_nevin]

A lot of time I would have changed the sensor if a tractor gauge was showing zero, as many times you would push down the key but the clock hand would not move at all, but the water would warm up when the engine was hot, so if yours is staying only lukewarm it is a sign of thermostat not functioning properly

When I push down key the dial moves ever so much but still doesn't even read the lowest notch on dial and doesn't move at all when tractor is going and warming up

 

[diyfarmer]

When I push down key the dial moves ever so much but still doesn't even read the lowest notch on dial and doesn't move at all when tractor is going and warming up
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Yes but you'd got two different things going on at the same time. If the sensor is wrong the hand will say zero all the time, but you say that the cab heater is only getting lukewarm then that's a different problem. If you think it's the sensor was wrong the cab heater would still have you toasty after a while.

 

[eoghan_nevin]

Yes but you'd got two different things going on at the same time. If the sensor is wrong the hand will say zero all the time, but you say that the cab heater is only getting lukewarm then that's a different problem. If you think it's the sensor was wrong the cab heater would still have you toasty after a while.
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Yeah but I tested sensor ( detailed this in a previous message ) which seems fine. That leads me to say it's the thermostat

 

[diyfarmer]

Yeah but I tested sensor ( detailed this in a previous message ) which seems fine. That leads me to say it's the thermostat


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Well sure your grand so. Work away

 

[eoghan_nevin]

Well sure your grand so. Work away
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Thanks for the help . Ill hopefully get a chance to put in the thermostat this week.

 

[hala]

Even if the thermostat is stucked in open position the gauge will move a bit after running the tractor for a while and the engine feels warm. This of cause if the meter and sensor works.

 

[diyfarmer]

Yes Hazze Morrie this correct, it would get about 40C when engine is hot.

 

[eoghan_nevin]

Ordered a thermostat but they don't have the thermostat online. I have brown gasket paper , can I make up my own . Will it hold or is there anything special about the proper one. Seems just paper in the pictures !

Sidejob, replacing the fuel filter in the 6211. Seen there's a primary and secondary fuel filter -

Do these look correct for the 6211 -

Primary - https://www.johnconaty.com/111-54-931207-FFF5197-p/5656.htm

Secondary - https://www.johnconaty.com/931209-FFF0823-p/5657.htm

Element filter ? - https://www.johnconaty.com/ZETOR -FORTERRA-MAJOR-PROXIMA-FUEL-FILTER-931260-p/5659.htm

Thanks
Eoghan

 

[diyfarmer]

Did you see this one https://www.johnconaty.com/ZETOR -FORTERRA-UR-SERIES-THERMOSTAT-70011316-p/5434.htm

 

[eoghan_nevin]

Did you see this one https://www.johnconaty.com/ZETOR -FORTERRA-UR-SERIES-THERMOSTAT-70011316-p/5434.htm

Sorry my fault meant to say the don't have the gasket online . I'm getting that exact thermostat from there but it doesn't come with the thermostat gasket. So can I make my own etc ( see last message re gasket and fuel filters ) thanks

 

[diyfarmer]

The gasket might come away when you open the housing but you could use a small line of silicon around the edge.

About the fuel filters, I looked at them all they should be right. There's a primary and a secondary filter, though when we used to service our 7245, we used to the same filter into both of them.

The last one is a type that would fit my HSX.

 

[eoghan_nevin]

The gasket might come away when you open the housing but you could use a small line of silicon around the edge.

About the fuel filters, I looked at them all they should be right. There's a primary and a secondary filter, though when we used to service our 7245, we used to the same filter into both of them.

The last one is a type that would fit my HSX.

Hopefully but I might use the gasket paper and make one and use gasket silicone I have ( listed for use for water pumps and thermostat housings). That should hold wouldn't you think - can't see anything special about the thermostat gasket that's can be got -https://www.malpasonline.co.uk/itm/Engine-Thermostat-Gaskets/Thermostat-Gasket/64444

Okay sounds good about the filters. I noticed the glass filter for diesel was full with brown dirt so I cleaned it and 5/6 days later full again - so I thought fuel filter change will help - would I be right @diy-farmer .

Also it there much to changing the filters - could you get be me a rough idea of what to do ?
Thanks

 

[diyfarmer]

That gasket looks the job OK.

If the glass vessel is full gunk clean it and fills up again quickly with a gunk again must be coming out of either the filters or all the way from the tank. You should be changing the filters every 300 hours or once a year. The tank might needs cleaning after 10 years.

To change them, first turn off the diesel at the tap stick a bucket underneath open the bolt on the first filter screw of the cover, empty the old diesel and filter into your bucket and rub the inside of the housing bowl with a rag, then do the same with the other one.

To fit the new ones, pop in the new filter into the housing bowl and fill up 3/4 full with clean diesel then screw it back on, then do the same with the other one but don't retighten to the last, turn on the tap and pump up the diesel with the hand primer and when the diesel starts coming out of the filter bolt tighten them up to last.
To bleed them open the banjo bolt at the second filter and pump the primer till diesel is flying out then tighten the banjo and try start the engine.