Zetor 6045 fel not working. Upon further inspection the pump shaft doesn't turn??? I assume it should whenever the engine is operating. If something is broken how the heck do I get at it? It is -22 C here today, not sure if that would make a difference. Would anything else cause the shaft to not turn?
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Fel pump shaft not turning?
- Thread starter samtet60
- Start date
I assume you have a pump mounted in the front that is driven by the front crank pulley? If so, you'd find it easiest to remove the radiator for easier access, then unbolt the pump and move it out of the way, you should then see the problem easily.
If it is set up with the front pump, this isn't standard, so you may have trouble sourcing parts.
If it is set up with the front pump, this isn't standard, so you may have trouble sourcing parts.
Finally found the problem, the crankcase nut that holds on the drive pulley was stripped. The hydraulic pump was front mounted the crank nut was drilled out and a sprocket was welded to it and hooked up to the pump with sprockets and roller chains. Had the nut re tapped but wasn't able to get it back on the crank. The crank must also be stripped, wasn't able to get a die (Nut is 32 mm with a 1.5 pitch) to repair the crank. Have a temp fix for the crank (clamp on the end, has anybody got a better idea), tractor running. Can I use the rear hydraulics to run the front loader. It is a 6045. Tks
Bugger!
if the thread on the crank is not too badly damaged you may be able to clean it up enough to get it started with a ground down hacksaw blade (remove the pulley for better access, it should just slide off as it is on a key and not on a taper)
grind the teeth down (to a point) on the hacksaw blade to match the thread pitch of the thread, now lightly saw down into the valley of the thread working slowly around the crank until at least 4 threads on the end are clean enough to start the nut.
i am assuming you purchased a new nut? as if the old one was stripped you cannot just re-thread it! or it will be oversize and it will not take any strain before stripping again.
DO NOT use the tractor without the nut fixed and done up tight![/] (i think about 100ftlb) or the pulley will come loose and flog out the keyway in the pulley and the crank, and then you will need a new crank
Probably best not to drive the hydraulic pump of the nut!!!
Drill and tap some M8 or M10 (6 is ideal) holes in the pulley and make a suitable drive flange that you can bolt to the front pulley (using Grade 8.8 or better bolts) that will take the load of driving the pump .......... ie weld a coupling sprocket to big (say ~60mm Dia) washer, weld on 6 spider legs from 25x5mm steel strapping that bolt to the front of the pulley. (you may need some pipe spacers to get a good fit)
hopefully you can make it so the total length of the coupling still aligns with the pump (ie if the back of driving flange is touching the front pulley nut and the coupling sprocket has 5mm machined off the back it should all fit)
Tip..... make the flange and bolt to the pulley first then find the true center with the engine running (or cranking) so when you weld on the coupling sprocket it will be centered
(do not weld while bolted to the crank, index one spider leg and it's bolt hole on the pulley so you always bolt it back in the same position)
if the thread on the crank is not too badly damaged you may be able to clean it up enough to get it started with a ground down hacksaw blade (remove the pulley for better access, it should just slide off as it is on a key and not on a taper)
grind the teeth down (to a point) on the hacksaw blade to match the thread pitch of the thread, now lightly saw down into the valley of the thread working slowly around the crank until at least 4 threads on the end are clean enough to start the nut.
i am assuming you purchased a new nut? as if the old one was stripped you cannot just re-thread it! or it will be oversize and it will not take any strain before stripping again.
DO NOT use the tractor without the nut fixed and done up tight![/] (i think about 100ftlb) or the pulley will come loose and flog out the keyway in the pulley and the crank, and then you will need a new crank
Probably best not to drive the hydraulic pump of the nut!!!
Drill and tap some M8 or M10 (6 is ideal) holes in the pulley and make a suitable drive flange that you can bolt to the front pulley (using Grade 8.8 or better bolts) that will take the load of driving the pump .......... ie weld a coupling sprocket to big (say ~60mm Dia) washer, weld on 6 spider legs from 25x5mm steel strapping that bolt to the front of the pulley. (you may need some pipe spacers to get a good fit)
hopefully you can make it so the total length of the coupling still aligns with the pump
(ie if the back of driving flange is touching the front pulley nut and the coupling sprocket has 5mm machined off the back it should all fit)Tip..... make the flange and bolt to the pulley first then find the true center with the engine running (or cranking) so when you weld on the coupling sprocket it will be centered
(do not weld while bolted to the crank, index one spider leg and it's bolt hole on the pulley so you always bolt it back in the same position)
Bugger!
if the thread on the crank is not too badly damaged you may be able to clean it up enough to get it started with a ground down hacksaw blade (remove the pulley for better access, it should just slide off as it is on a key and not on a taper)
grind the teeth down (to a point) on the hacksaw blade to match the thread pitch of the thread, now lightly saw down into the valley of the thread working slowly around the crank until at least 4 threads on the end are clean enough to start the nut.
i am assuming you purchased a new nut? as if the old one was stripped you cannot just re-thread it! or it will be oversize and it will not take any strain before stripping again.
DO NOT use the tractor without the nut fixed and done up tight![/] (i think about 100ftlb) or the pulley will come loose and flog out the keyway in the pulley and the crank, and then you will need a new crank
Probably best not to drive the hydraulic pump of the nut!!!
Drill and tap some M8 or M10 (6 is ideal) holes in the pulley and make a suitable drive flange that you can bolt to the front pulley (using Grade 8.8 or better bolts) that will take the load of driving the pump .......... ie weld a coupling sprocket to big (say ~60mm Dia) washer, weld on 6 spider legs from 25x5mm steel strapping that bolt to the front of the pulley. (you may need some pipe spacers to get a good fit)
hopefully you can make it so the total length of the coupling still aligns with the pump
Tip..... make the flange and bolt to the pulley first then find the true center with the engine running (or cranking) so when you weld on the coupling sprocket it will be centered
(do not weld while bolted to the crank, index one spider leg and it's bolt hole on the pulley so you always bolt it back in the same position)
Better still. see if you can get a hold of a pully off a 2 series tractor (e.g. 6245 etc), as they aready have the threaded holes in it, with provision for dowels also. These holes are there to drive a front PTO, so the pully is plenty strong enough.
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