fuel problems on a 4340

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pine_hill

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Pinehill

• Oct 3, 2003

• #1

anyone know why my engine shuts down? I'm almost sure it's fuel related since to restart it all I usually have to do is give the manual fuel pump by the settling bowl about 40 strokes and it starts right up. Have replaced all lines, emptied the fuel tank 3 times and changed the filter twice. Also purged the injector pump. Has plenty of power when it's working so I don't suspect that the injection pump is about to go.

Looking for ideas.

 

T

Tom in Ireland

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• Oct 3, 2003

• #2

Hi Pinehill,

Sounds like you have a fuel supply problem.

Have you cleaned the fuel tank? I know you emptied it but there may still be dirt in there.

The supply to the settling bowl seems to be intemittent. Another possibility is air intake (crack in supply pipe or bad joint). Is there any dirt or air bubbles in the settling bowl? Some dirt in the supply to the settling bowl could cause the sort of problem you describe.

How frequently does this occur? How long can you operate the tractor for before it stops?

Tom

 

Renze

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1967 3011

• Oct 3, 2003

• #3

I had this problem on the 5245. some pieces of trash were sucked up in the line. As long as you keep it high reved (hard working) there is lots of vacuum in the intake, but when it is running slowly the flow is too little and the amount of air comparatively high.

take off the line and blow it through with an air compressor. that helped for me..

 

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pine_hill

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Pinehill

• Oct 3, 2003

• #4

Thanks for the ideas. I've done all that at least once and one would think that if it were trash in the fuel that I'd see some in the settling bowl. I'm beginning to think it's an air leak past the settling bowl because when it quits the bowl is still full of clean fuel. the shop manual talks about applying compressed air with the system soaked in soapy water to bring it out but this means going all the way from the settling bowl to the filter to the injection pump. Guess I'll try it if all else fails. Anyone think it could be the injection pump sticking or otherwise mal functioning?

Thank you guys for speaking in a language that a cowboy understands. We Americans are pretty bad about second languages and the best I can do is Spanish and it's pretty shabby.

 

Renze

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• Oct 3, 2003

• #5

Cowboys are all alike, Pinehill !! No matter if they live in the wild west or in the Steernbos... Just have patience with each other's language...

 

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pine_hill

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Pinehill

• Oct 4, 2003

• #6

was ist ein Steernboster ?

 

Renze

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• Oct 4, 2003

• #7

You know what the president said, "Ich bin ein Berliner"
He meant to say that everywhere in the world, we want our freedom, we want to follow the nature and habits of our folks. We want to be free, live the way we want to. Not just the west Berliners that lived in a Western enclave surrounded by communist troops. He meant to say that not just the west berliners lived among that threat, but we all do. We all live in the threat of forces that want to tie down our cultural, financial, intellectual and spiritual freedom.

That's what i recall in that quote: Over here in the Steernbos we have our own way of doing things, we respect our neighbors and our environment, conflicts are solved privately, by speech and not by violence. Over here there are 3 different religions that live in harmony. People that respect our way of living are good friends, people who do not are also treated well, as long as they let us free in our ways.

 

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crystalman

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Steve

• Oct 4, 2003

• #8

If she fires on all cylinders and you get good power the injector lines must be OK. So you must be getting air into the system from somewhere.I would check the sediment bowl rubber seal and the fuel filter housing seals. Also all the bleed screws and fuel unions on the injector pump.They have metric copper washers on them that are hard to obtain new unless you ask for them specially so they may have been reused one too many times

 

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pine_hill

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Pinehill

• Oct 5, 2003

• #9

just replaced the rubber gasget at the settling bowl. Put on a new fuel filter not long ago and it had a new gasget with it. Was careful and am pretty sure I got it on right. If there are copper washers where you bleed the injectors I need to check them out as I bet I've loosened and tightened them 40 times trying to get around this problem. Thanks for the tip.

 

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markku

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Markku

• Oct 5, 2003

• #10

Zetor fuel hoses are really rubish! Replace those with new and better quality hoses. You have to do that anyway. By the way! Wash the fuel tank breathing filter! If the filter doesnt give air to the tank there will not come fuel out either!! Sometimes in winter snow can be freezed into the filter and suddenly the tractor stop! You wait a while and it starts again.

 

Renze

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• Oct 6, 2003

• #11

Markku, is a hose replacement the optimal solutions for all the fuel problems ??
I cleaned tank and filters, still air in the fuel lines. Not really bad but you have to pump the hand pump before starting.

 

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markku

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Markku

• Oct 6, 2003

• #12

Allways, when I buy new Zetor I take off all fuel and hydraulic hoses and mount better quality hoses back! This way I save much expensive working time, because I dont need to do it hose by hose. The hand operated fuel pump is rubish too. Nowdays I replace it with Bosh pump. Same pump is as standard in -40 series ans -41 series! It is a good pump!

I saw a one case when was extremely difficult fuel problem. Solution was simply but it was difficult to find out! The fuel intake hose (hose that comes from tank to fuel pump) did fall down (I mean was like squeezed shut) and engine stopped. We wait a while and hose did open and engine did start again!!!!!!

There is many weard think in the world....... I cant newer stop to amazing.......

 

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pine_hill

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Pinehill

• Oct 12, 2003

• #13

Thank all you dudes for helping this Texas Cowboy out with your suggestions. Ran the 4340 for about 10 hours the last two days and it quit on me only twice. In each case I worked the manual pump for about 40 strokes and it started right up. When I have a little time I'll check out all the copper washers at the injection pump and the injectors.

Thanks again for your suggestions.

 

T

Tom in Ireland

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• Oct 14, 2003

• #14

Hi Pinehill,

I know you have replaced your hoses but Marrku's suggestion sounds good to me.

Did you use a quality brand hose when replacing e.g. Gates?

p.s. I had similar problems before reconditioning my Zetor Crystal 8011. The solution for me was to remove the fuel tank and clean it (wash it out with diesel), fits new fitlers, replace all rubber hoses and replace the copper washers.

It's not an exact science especially when your up against problems as a previous poster noted re the collapasing fuel line!

Here's hoping that your tractor will tick away all day without missing a beat!

Tom

 

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tagew

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Tage W

• Oct 14, 2003

• #15

On my 6245 I had leak in the return line from the injectors. It didnt give me problem when I was driving but if I didnt use the tractor for a few days I had to use the handpump to get it started.

 

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hillfarmer ron

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• Nov 5, 2003

• #16

Check the hoses and be sure they all have clamps! Last winter when the weather started to cool , it wouldn't start and was definately fuel related. After hours of beating my head against the wall I found that just enough air was being pulled in at the intake side of the injector pump. Clamped all of the hoses and starts even well below freezing!

 

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Frank

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• Oct 30, 2004

• #17

Hey Pinehill did you get your fuel problem worked out? I had a similar problem up here in Michigan. Please post your response.

 

Renze

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• Oct 30, 2004

• #18

Markku,

Can you tell me the part number for the Bosch supply pump you use ?? I have ever returning fuel problems, replaced all hoses and washers, but after a week it was sucking air again... >

I think of replacing the supply pump, or replacing the rubbers with ones from the Diesel specialist in town...

 

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markku

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Markku

• Nov 1, 2004

• #19

I will check "bosch number" today when I come back to home and I will post it to you.

There is one non-return valve what is built in one banjo connector. Its behind the fuel pump (injection pump) where the return line comes out to fuel tank. This is one possible solution. Its rare but possible......

 

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markku

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Markku

• Nov 1, 2004

• #20

Ok,

Bosch number is 52447222125

This number is readen from pump. I could not found the number from Bosch catalogue

Im not sure is this only the pump (you must keep the original banjo adaptor) or pump with adaptor. But that is not a big problem.

 

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darylat8750ft

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darylat8750

• Nov 1, 2004

• #21

If the copper washers are hard to get it may be possible to anneale (sp?) the old ones. Piston airplane engines use copper washers on the spark plugs and they are removed and cleaned/inspected every hundred hours. Every second time we reuse them we just heat them slowly with a torch until they are cherry red and let them cool slowly. It makes them nice and soft so they will seal again.
Good Luck. Daryl (Wyoming)