Oil escaping from crankcase breather

Hi Folks

I've been meaning to ask this for ages. Mr Z is loosing quite a bit of engine oil - and it seems that most of this is being blown out of the crankcase breather. Is there anything I can do to prevent this?

The screen on the inside of the front engine side-plate (item 16 on page 30 of the Zetor manual Z3) is fitted - I believe correctly - and appears in good condition. I can't see any valves or traps in the system.

Any suggestions?

By the way, I think the crankcase pressure is a bit high. There is a noticable amout of exhaust coming out of the breather, and the exhaust that goes up the "chimney" is a somewhat blue colour, so a piston ring job is on the cards at some point.

Thanks!

003

On the later UR1 engines the breather pipe was modified to a larger pipe wih a different side plate seperator, which solves the oil loss problem when the engine gets a little tired.

This is a common problem in naturally aspirated zetor engines. When engine run little bit too hot the piston rings will lost their tensity. (rings will come soft and doesnt seal the piston and pipe). If the power is not missing too much, replace the breathere with newer model. 4340, 6340 etc....... Or install one more!!!!!!!! It is easy there is one extra cover on the side of the engine and you can mount a original breathere to this place.

Thanks Alzet, Markku.

It looks like this has an easy solution

Thanks again

003

The piston rings dont get tired, they just get lazy:
The solution that worked best on our 5245, which used to use about a liter of oil a day, at only 3700 hrs:

Pull implements like a 3 furrow 16" plough at 30 cm depth, or a heavy cultivator/chisel plough at 40 cm in the highest possible gear. The rings will burn tight.

I assume you have a 52 or 72 model ?? it is a known problem with these engines, halfway the production, they changed to another type of piston rings, because in light duty work, the early type of ring got lazy.

I am told, in the mid 80's the importer went around at dealers, with a PTO dynotester, to have them working for a few hours with a chemical additive in the fuel and oil. This was to seat piston rings from tractors that did only light duty work.

...Now that i know the cause of the problem, and my piston rings are sealing 99% again,i will open up the fuel pump a bit more, to prevent lazyness in the future... The 5245 havent matched the 53 PTO hp of the good old 4712 anyways..


If you want to know which engine serial numbers got the new or old ring, ask me again tomorrow, when i have time to search the book.

Renze, that solution works first, but it start to "blow over" again but later, even in a hard use. But its true you can manage about 1000 hours more......

Hi

My engine number is 6901/19200

I have been using it fairly hard, but if I load it up too much - say pulling a 2m spring tyne harrow fairly deeply in 2nd high or 3rd high, the engine starts to get hot. Not boiling over, but over the top of the 'green'.

Once I noticed this I started using 1st high, and also I tilted the harrow backwards so that the front row of tynes was just entering the soil. Like this I got pretty much the same harrowing effect and it was much easier on the tractor.

I think my tractor is in the state that Markku suggests, ie at the point where the "hard work" thing doesn't help any more.

Maybe sometime in the next five years I'll be replacing those rings the question is finding the time when the tractor isn't in use- not easy!

So, i assume your tractor is a 6911 or 45??
As far as i know, the 69 model did not use this piston ring.

How many hours has your tractor done ??

6945, about 5200 hours... according to the meter anyway. I'll email you a photo, then you'll probably think it's more like 15200h

003

5200 hours isn't much, and 15200 hours can be achieved on one set of piston rings...
I guess it is the cold starting in the cold Finnish winter, that ate your piston rings. Do you use a block heater ??

At the moment i have 6 weeks of work at a cheese factory, technical support department. The steam kettles they have, ar built in 1964 and 1966, still doing their work.

They are turned down just once every 2 years, otherwise they burn 24/7. If they would burn just a few hours a day, and cool down during the night, they would be bursten by now, because of metal fatigue due to the thermal expansion/shrink.

There's no block heater on this one, but there is a heater inserted into one of the water hoses. The tractor won't start without at least a half an hours preheat in the winter.

Some kind of engine pre-heater is fitted to pretty much every vehicle here.

Oddly enough though, our Forsdon Major doesn't have an engine heater of any sort, OR glow plugs, and yet it still starts instantly, however cold it is ???

Hi Arctic,

Re the Fordson Major, do you have to "tickle" the fuel pump to prime it before starting? I believe that this is called an "excess fuel device" which accounts for the easy starting.

A neighbouring farmer has a Fordson Major which he leaves out in the open all year long and only uses it once a year. Out he goes with a battery and 2 minutes later it's started. Very impressive.

TomZ
Tom

That Fordson is like our 6045 was....

It did start allways. Sometimes when it was little more than -30 decrees (celcius) cold we did go to forest where it was left 2 days earlies. We put cables between car battery and Zetor starter Hole village was shaking and forest was full of black smoke, but it did run

That was stupid, but we needed the tractor and we didnt have any time for heating it

These new generation Zetor those has the automatic cold starting device wont start properly in cold weather. Unless you dont little adjust the cold starting device to give little extra fuel...:-x

Like the famous finnish artist did song "the past time wont never come back"

Yes, the old fashioned cold starting button was a lot better.

Does the cold start button actually inject more fuel, or is it adjusting the ignition timing to inject earlier in the stroke, giving the fuel more time to evaporate and ignite??

It mowes the teeth liner that adjust injection pistons inside the injection pump. So it effects on the same thing if you srew some extra fuel for the engine. I could think rapidly

Hmm... Then why is it working so much better on a 6718 or 4712 button controlled cold starting device, than on the 5245 automatic device ?? ..I think i reallly need to tweek that fuel pump...

What I was written in previously message was about manual cold starting device. About the automatic... I think its mainly purpose is getting injection earlier. Exactly do it earlier in low engine revs. And this is propably the reason why newer Zetor engines start easily running backwards if you pull it so hard it does stop running.

We didnt ever get the 5945 or 6045 running backward but 6245 and 7745 and 6340 engines do that. And even very easily.

Giving little extra fuel for engine (automatic cold starting) does usually give little more power but it help cold starting too.

I have one second hand pump but I havent yeat had a time to "explode" it. But I will do it when I have time for it>

Markku, i see what you mean..

Yes, i have seen people in tractorpulling, with a 6011 that seems to seize... But they could just start the engine again and continue... Probably a backfire ?