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our 5245 has been under water, I need some help

micd

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Joined
Jan 22, 2008
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38
First name
mic-d
Hi, haven't posted for a while but in need of some help . With the recent floods here in Brisbane, our pony club tractor went under up to the cab floor and I really don't know where to begin. I took the bung out of the fuel tank and drained it - it was full of water. I also drained the glass bulb. Not sure what I need to do so I would like to ask if someone could go through what to do (preferably with pictures - cos if you say clean the fuel filter, I wouldn't know where to find them!) Or perhaps there is another member on here in the Brisbane area or you know of someone. All help gratefully received!

Cheers
Michael
 
Hi
Start by changing engin oil, klean oilfilters innside the two canisters on rigt side of engine, change oil inn front aksle, chek gearbox oil, if level higer then normal water has probably enterd the gearbox, inn that case this oil also shold be changed. Then you shold grease every poin to push water out and lube handbrake cable etc whit penetretingoil. Fuel filters are the canisters on left side off engine, i dont think water has enterd so far innto the fuelsystem. Also your batteri and starter motor cold be coterminated .
God luck widt your work.
Bjarne
 
Thanks Bjarne, I better drain all the fluids, there are water leaks instead of oil leaks now.

Cheers
Michael
 
Just dont hydrolock it: It will cause serious engine damage.
Before starting it, make sure there is no water in the air cleaner which might get sucked in. a little water wont hurt, but if it takes more water in than there is room above the piston, something has got to give.

furthermore, changeing fluids would do the trick.
I've seen a drowned ford 6610 which went in the river when taking a manure tank full of water because of a faulty hand brake latch with running engine, but it didnt even take water in. they took the injectors out before cranking it to make sure the water had a place to go during compression stroke, but the engine already stalled because of the resistance of the water in the air filter...

But check it anyways !!
 
Thanks Renze, I won't wind it over until I open the cylinders. Today I will clean the engine down and the rest of it to get some muck off it and clean the filters. Perhaps by the end of the day I will give it a kick and see if it starts, but I have a few other jobs to do today too.

Cheers
Michael
 
Today I had the help of a mechanic and was able to get the tractor going and running well. He couldn't get the injectors off so he cracked open the exhaust valves a little with shims and we turned it over by hand first and then by the starter. We got a bit of water out the exhaust pipe leak. We refitted the tank and bled the lines and wound it over. It started on one cylinder then gradually two then three and fine. Will do several cycles of oil changes until they aren't milky. Front hubs were fine, front axle had water and will need a change, engine has been changed once, main transmission needs a change (that is going to cost a packet if I use 35l a time -CAN I USE LESS for the interim changes???), slasher gearbox will need a change.

Cheers
Michael
 
I have some new problems!

I removed the magnetic filter on the hydraulic pump today but the mesh did not come out with it. It is my understanding it should. I can feel it has a big hole in it so it isn't much use. Should I be able to tug the mesh out with some needle-nose pliers?

The operators manual says that the drain bung for the steering box is on the bottom of the box, but I cannot see it, can anyone guide me to it?

I am so confused about oil grades to use in the transmission. Last time on advice I used Castrol Agri multi plus (10W-40 I think) and it seems fine. But now I have the manual it says 80W90. I run a front loader on the external circuit and most work is done in +26C temp.

I've been advised to use 85W140 in the front diff (light duty diff) and in the front hubs and rear final drive bridges, Does this seem right? This oil is very expensive ($11lt)

What oil should I use in the steering box? (If I ever find the drain bung!)

Cheers
Michael
 
In the steering system you should use ATF oil. In the gearbox i use castrol universal oil 15w 30 or similar. dont use 80w 90. in the front axle you can use ordinary 80w 90 gear oil. good luck :)
 
In the steering system you should use ATF oil. In the gearbox i use castrol universal oil 15w 30 or similar. dont use 80w 90. in the front axle you can use ordinary 80w 90 gear oil. good luck :)

Thanks! Just to clarify, I mean the steering box, not the power steering system, it's two different things
:)

Cheers
Michael
 
In the steering system you should use ATF oil. In the gearbox i use castrol universal oil 15w 30 or similar. dont use 80w 90. in the front axle you can use ordinary 80w 90 gear oil. good luck :)

Thanks! Just to clarify, I mean the steering box, not the power steering system, it's two different things
:)

Cheers
Michael
 
ahh now i see what you mean. stupid me hehe. i dont know about the steering box probably gear oil.
 
I find the bung for the steering box. You have to take the tin panel to the side of the steering box off and it is visible under the steering box. It is a pain to refill though, so slow!

Also the alternator has not survived the water, the light comes on now and there is only 12.5V at the battery when the engine runs.

Also still need answer to my question about the hydraulic filter from above please!

Cheers
Michael
 
Thanks Mike.
Drying out down here in Brisbane, but a cyclone has just gone through up north and there's another bigger one on the way, destination unknown:eek:

Cheers
Michael
 
Another question69)

Is thefilter canister behind the two crankcase oil filters another hydraulic oil filter? Is it a washable one?


Cheers
Michael
 
Oh Dear I have more questions sorry:mad:

The front loader on the tractor has its own control levers mounted about head height and an arms length out to the right of the driving position. The way it's setup, the system works when the outer circuit quadrant arm is locked in the 2 position with the locking pin. It is impossible to hold it in the 2 position by hand, as the manual says, and use the other hand to control the loader levers and the third hand to steer the tractor69)69) which is why I lock it in position 2 while using the bucket. But is this ok? I can hear the hydraulic pump whining away and I wonder if I am overtaxing it?

Cheers
Michael
 
Hi

You should be able to lock the lever in either 1 or 2 but it shouldn't load the hydraulic pump. If you can hear it loading and blowing the relief valve you haven't got the return line piped correctly. Or you may just have the pto in 1000 instead of 540 ??

Mike
 
Thanks Mike, I just hear the pump constantly pumping but not anything I could describe as a bad sound. I don't think I would know what the relief valve popping would sound like though

Cheers
Michael:):)
 

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