Planetary hub oil seal

[arctic003]

Hi. (Me again )

I've just discovered that my right hand front hub is leaking oil - at first I thought it was the steering lower bearing exuding grease but that is actually ok.

Is it a lot of work to change the oil seal?

Thanks (again )

003

PS I don't think my tractor is really falling apart, but it might sound like it from these posts!

 

[6745 driver]

It depends which seal is leaking. If it is the little seal around the drive shaft it can be changed by taking the steering knuckle off and then you change the seal.

If it is the big seal which seals the wheel hub to the steering knuckle you will most likely need to take the steering knuckle and hub assembly to a dealer to get it pressed apart.

I had the big seal go on my 6745 and the hubs are both pressed together and bolted.

 

[arctic003]

Thanks 6745 driver.

I think it's the big one. At least the point where the front half-shaft emerges from the axle is dry; the oil seems to be coming from the inner face of the wheel hub

I topped up the oil in the left hub too, and that leaks from the same place now. Perhaps though I over-filled it?

While I was checking out the front end I also put more oil into the front differential and guess what?! After a test-drive to the village shop oil was running out of the seal where the front prop shaft enters the front diff.

Tom, what was that about "things coming in three"?

A dark thought crossed my mind - > - rather than lots of heavy spanner work, would half a cartridge of regular grease into each front hub and the front differential be a good...ahem... temporary fix? It certainly helped my Fordson Major when I dumped a full cartridge of grease into the gearbox. Oil used to stream out of there, and the box was stiff as anything for the first few minutes

All the best

003

PS Guess what! My resolution for next week (why not? After all, we make new year resolutions so why not a new week one?) is to order the workshop manual from tractor-manuals.com (I can almost hear the sighs of relief echoing around Zetorworld...)
.

 

[treaney]

Arctic,

I'd try the grease if it were me.

Q. After all what is grease?
A. Grease is oil - in a thickner which is either soap (lithium) or non-soap (polyurea) based - designed to control the rate of release of guess what....oil...slowly to lubricate.

Make sure to use a grease designed for wheel bearing/heavy duty rating GC. Rating GC-LB is commonly available and used a lot in farming.

Good luck!


Tom

 

[tagew]

I also had problem with leak when I had my 6245, when I changed the oil first time the manual said I could use a 10W-30 farmoil, but after I changed to that type it started leak specially in warm weather and much driving. I tlked to another farmer wich also had been tractor mecanicer he said to me: See if you have any ventilation there and if so check if it is open othewise you get pressure inside, and change to 80W-90 hypoid oil. I did what he said, and after that the leak stopped. I still have the big seal I bought in a box, but have changed the tractor.

Regards Tage W.

 

[arctic003]

Aha, that sounds promising...

Maybe the breather got blocked, I was working in a very dusty environment.

I've just had a look to see if I can locate a breather, and the only candidate I can find is a bolt on the top of the extreme outer end of the axle casting, with what appears to be about a 12mm head. Is this it? It just looks like an ordinary bolt though...

Oh and yes, I do have farmoil in the hubs. In fact, I've been using that for just about everything (including my "other half's" car.. but don't tell her that > )

If that fails then I shall stick grease in there and stop worrying

 

[tagew]

On the 6245 the ventilation - if I dont remember wrong - was a ca 20 -30 mm high knob on the up side and inside of the wheel. The knob is NOT rotating with the wheel, and maybe there was any type of filtering funktion in it.
I also used "Farmoil" everywhere in my 6245 also in the front axle, but after I changed to 80W90 hypoid the leak stopped, so after that I use that type of oil in such places.
"Farmoil" are a good oil for engines, gearboxes etc. I use it in my 4 WD Suzuki and also in my Valmet 20 -57.
If it is possible to use it in a hardworking Zetor it cant be any problems in a car.
Maybe a bigger problem could be if it for ex. are Hankijas Farmoil they sometimes change where they buy the oil, earlier it was Texaco and now for a few years it has been Shell and in the future????

 

[arctic003]

Thanks Tage W. I shall go breather hunting again once I've finished this posting. Perhaps that bolt I found yesterday is holding a bearing in?! It was a good decision to send for the workshop manual I think

At the moment our local Agrimarket is selling a Shell oil as 'farmoil'. The last time I went there though they had run out, and suggested that I go to the Shell garage next door.

I got some Shell Harvella "farm oil" from there which I suppose is the same product - It was the same price anyway.

Whereabouts are you? I'm near Imatra.

All the best

003

UPDATE: I've just been for a look, and there doesn't seem to be any access to the back of the hub from the inside of the wheel.
All That there is is just the inside of the wheel casting.

Perhaps my tractor is slightly different to yours, and it is that little bolt after all? Maybe I undo it and see if there is anything 'special' about it...

 

[tagew]

Im sitting on land, on the days I work on the telephone company in Mariehamn and in the evening Im a "moonshine" farmer with a Zetor 6341 -98 and an M-F 135 -74 and of course my diamond Valmet 20 -57.
You can see a little bit more om my sons homepage
http://home.aland.net/tagew/jocke.htm
I have no pictures on my M-F, it is nothing to show, it need some painting. I have a Haka 2000 excavator and a small l fronloader mounted on it.
I bought my 6341 in Turku as a second hand with 740 hours on it.
I like it very much, not any big problems yet.
My son says he want a J-D, I say to him: You can have your dream, buy it yourselves when you got money, I have my Zetor and it is very much tractor for the money.
Then he answer: So your dream is a Proxima then, and I answer Yes of course.
By the way, have you heard something when someone want to start importing new Zetors to Finland.
Regards Tage W.

 

[arctic003]

Hi

Nice web pages!
Sorry, I haven't heard anything about when new Zetors will be imported again...

Have made progress with my front hubs though! Digging through several archaeological strata of mud I found a hole about 1/4" diameter on the upper inside of each hub, just above the topmost bolt of the ring of bolts. I dug each one out with a drill, and then gave them a blast of brake cleaner.

After that I went for a test drive, and there is definate improvement (heh heh either that or all the oil has leaked out). Oil is still running out of the front differential/front prop shaft seal though so the plan for tomorrow is to have a dig around and see if I can find the breather for that - I'm assuming it must have one.

The field I have been working in is quite clayey (lets say, er... three parts 'potters clay' and one part plaster of paris ) and the dust that comes off that gets everywhere sometimes. It's no wonder that things like breathers get blocked.

All the best

003

By the way, I have visited land! We drove to England a few years ago and we came back that way. We camped on Kumlinge and overslept, missing the ferry!

 

[crystalman]

Looks like your breathers have gone missing! The are about 40-50mm high and mushroom shaped (like a Major air cleaner top!!!)with a bolt head on top for a spanner.If you want thicker stuff in the hubs you can buy a 10 kilo drum of 240 grade semi fluid lubricant ,as used to lubricate baler knotters;which is just about liquid so wont cause as much drag as filling up with Grease.We use that in the rear hubs of our 6748 and I use it in the front hubs of my Crystal.

 

[crystalman]

Reply #10 Posted at Sat May 29 15:53:40 2004
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Looks like your breathers have gone missing! The are about 40-50mm high and mushroom shaped (like a Major air cleaner top!!!)with a bolt head
Sorry that's the Crystal! UR1 axles breathers are smaller with a brass cap that turns.At least they are on my 6748.

 

[arctic003]

Heh heh! Guess who's been mushroom hunting all over his tractor this weekend... with no luck

Still it's good to know that they aren't supposed to be there anyway!

Seriously though I haven't found anything (apart from those two holes on the inner sides of the hubs) that could be breathers. It does look like they are missing.

Hopefully it won't be too long before my manual arrives...

 

[markku]

Arctic,

You can stop the mushroom hunting..........

5945 Doesnt have those breathers. 6045 and newer does have those breathers, But anyway those breathers arent enought because high speed driving will still make too high preussure to planetary hubs. and front differential gears too

Best solution for your problem is: use SAE 80W-90 or 90W-140 and API GL-5 quality oils (Mobilube HD, Esso torquefluid.....), in both hubs and differential gears. And DO NOT OVERFILL! With that quality oils you can use even 3/4 fill.

If I can remember rigt our 5945 didnt leak oils badly but our neighbour did change seals 2 times.........

But our 6245 is bleeding oil from hubs all the time when it is cold weather and you use it for pulling lumber trailer..... I did even wash the breathers but it didnt help at all

 

[arctic003]

Hi Markku

Any thoughts if I could the semi liquid grease that is used for central lubrication?

Or a mixture of grease and farmoil (thinking about using what I have already )

Otherwise the real gear oil it is...

 

[markku]

Central lubrican grease would propably be ok. But I have some doubts about mixing grease and farmoil.... the oil comes out and the grease will stay in hub....

I know some UR2 tractor, those are used many years without problems. But I wouldnt try if you drive lots off on the road.......

 

[arctic003]

Yeah, I do drive lots on the road

I went to the field today to prepare it for seeding (hay) and when I got there it was too wet to work. It's so far away that the weather there can be completely different from home

 

[Roger]

Hi, having seen this post I decided to check out the front hubs on my 7745 as to be brutally honest I had never checked for lubrication here. I see what appears to be the breathers everyone is talking about. Approx 40mm diameter and 50mm high dome shaped with an 11mm hex head on top.
I removed them and there is a hollow bolt fixed to the inside of the dome head. There is also a wire mesh filter type insert in the dome head also.

Where in am I supposed to put the lubricant? If I use fluid grease could I just dump it in the hole where I remove the breather caps.

I tried to check the oil level by inserting a length of wire. There certainly is not much in there. Probably 5 or 6 mm depth showing up on my home made dip stick.

What should I do?

 

[tagew]

Outside the wheel in the middle you have the plug where you drain and fill the hub, maybe it is a 24 mm span or something like that, if you rotate the whell you can drain or fill and when the plug are on upside in about 90 degrees from it you have a small plug about 15 mm and that are the level plug. Fill with the big one on up side untill you get oil out from the small one and then you have the right level, rotate the wheel to same position to check the oil.

Best regards Tage W.

 

[Roger]

Thanks Tage, I will have a look tonight when I get home from the day job.

 

[Roger]

Tage,

Well I checked out my 7745 front hube for oil level this evening and I am glad to report I am only marginally below max level even though I have gone over 1500 hours since I bought the tractor without ever checking or topping up.
I now see the filler plug for the rear hubs but I do not see a smaller plug to act as a level indicator. Do you know how the proper level is indicated for the rear hubs.
I do see a smaller hex bolt but it is located below the filler lplug and is a little too near the bottom of the casting to act as the level indicator.
What do you think.

 

[tagew]

In the rear hub, the filler plug also are the levelplug. You fill up until the oil comes out from the the filler hole. It is the same for the front axle, you have the plug on the left side of the tractor, when you fill the front axle take it slowly, the oil have to go the whole way to the othen end of it and if it is cold it can take a little time.

Regards Tage W.

 

[Roger]

Thanks Tage. I thought that might be the system on the rear hubs.
On my front axel it is different than you describe. The filler plug is on the left side of the axel as you describe. It is a 27mm hex plug. The level indicator is right in the middle of the axel however. In the centre of the axel facing forward there is a round plate about 170mm to 190mm diameter kept in place by about 8 or 10 bolts. In the centre of that plate there is a 12mm hex plug which is the level indicator for the front axel. At least that is what I use to guide me.I checked it last night also and the oil level was ok. Last time I topped this up was 500 hours ago.

Thanks for your help . I really appreciate it. Thanks again.

Roger

 

[woodbeef]

Hey Roger,

Do you not have an operators/owners manual for your tractor?

 

[Roger]

Hi,

I do not have an operators manual but I did order one a few days ago from tractor-manuals .com. I hope to have it in a week or 10 days and hopefully it will cover the basic upkeep and servicing requirements.
I am hoping it goes into the braking system as I have what appears to me to be a problem with the cylinders mounted on the back end of the tractor which kick in when the brake pedals are pressed.
From looking around this site I am guessing that these are what people refer to as "slave cylinders". I looked up the Fragokov website last night and it seems to me that they call these units "Brake Control Cylinders"
In any case they look to be like I could replace them myself without getting in a mechanic. My main concern would be on how to bleed the system of air in the process. Maybe my manual will show how to do this.
I am also wondering if it would be good practice to drain and replace the brake fluid every once in a while. I believe that brake fluid absorbs water over time and can become less effective as a result. Do you know anything about this.