Problems adjusting front wheels for ploughing on Zetor 3011

[foglad]

Currently have the back wheels adjusted on my Zetor 3011 to 53" position between tyre tread centres. Giving 40" between the tyre walls.

I cannot adjust front wheels closer than 42" between tyre walls.
When ploughing, the front wheel should follow the furrow wall and consequently have the same tyre wall spacing as the rear.

Without this setting the same you lose the straight furrows and the rear tyre will crush the furrow wall.

Has anyone had the same experience?
The only way I can see is to cut an inch off the axle ends that the wheels slide in and out, to close the width to 40".

I am using a Ransom plough with 10" setting between the moleboards, planning to adjust it on the cross bar to plough two 10" furrows.

Any advice would be welcome as I am reluctant to cut the front axle at this stage.

 

[alan]

You could fit a pair of 7.50 x 16 tyres instead of the 6.00 x 16 this will give you 40.5 inches between the front tyre sidewalls.
The other option would be to adjust the rear wheel centers from 1350mm to 1425mm that gives you 43" between the rear tyre sidewalls

 

[foglad]

Alan thanks for the information.

I have just bought new tyres so didn't want to buy anymore.

I understood from the handbook that the available settings for the rear wheels, which was ideal for 10" furrow ploughing was 50" or 53" between centres.
I have it set at 53", the next setting is 58" which would be OK for alignment with the front without having to modify the axel.

58" isn't ideal for ploughing 10" furrows maybe 12", has anyone had experience of ploughing with a zetor using a 12" furrow setting?

Is there another setting (Alan mentioned 56") but looking at the manual I cannot see that position.

Ideally I would like to keep the rear setting as 53" and be able to adjust the front wheels but it doesn't look possible.

Any more comments would be appreciated.

 

[alan]

Steve the conversion in the manual is incorrect 53" =1350mm & 56" =1425mm Zetor wheels are adjustable in 75mm steps which is approx 3"

 

[crystalman]

Can you shift the whole plough over on it's Crossbar? Ransomes are always very good for their adjustability.I have ploughed with my front wheels wider than you think is correct but it is no problem.It also stops the inner sidewall of the tyre being cut.As long as the plough is pulling in a straight line you will be OK.Sometimes you see people ploughing with about 45 degrees of lock on to keep the outfit pulling straight-what are they playing at??? I have used a 4 furrow Reversible MF/Huard plough on my 10045.Trying to set up a second hand plough to suit your tractor always takes ages to get right.I have now decided to cut my plough down to make it a 3+1 as it is made of of heavy duty steel with a full set of discs,long lansides on the rear 2 furrows and a heavy depth wheel.When the oil gets hot the tractor was struggling to lift it out of the ground!!

 

[Renze]

Crystalman, maybe you could adjust the top link to another angle, to make it easier to lift the plough ??

Backing up the tractor at the end of the furrow, when lifting the plough, also makes a big difference in required lifting force...

 

[crystalman]

Trust me it's not a question of adjusting the top link-my MF/ Huard plough is seriously heavy!!Fully eguipped with all discs,skims and it's depth wheel it is well over 2000 and probably over 2500 kilos slung right out the back to add even more leverage.That's why I bought it.It is a very well made machine for proper ploughing with discs and skimmers not these modern lightweight jobs that look like a pig has been muzzling around It was built in the mid 1970's so I don't know what MF made that would lift it let alone pull it! Probably using it on one of those big MF 1200 pivot steers would make a nice outfit back then.

 

[Renze]

And YOU are pulling it with a 10045, that was introduced in 1978 ???

We also have a heavy mid 70's Huard plough, but it's a one sided model. The C-385 A pulled four furrows, but with the 5245 we pull three furrows of 16".

In good conditions, and one gear lower of speed, i think i could pull the 4th furrow too... But only if the soil is cultivated before ploughing...\




I would prefer to install a 3p lift assister ram of a slightly bigger size (55 instead of 50 mm ??) instead of tearing the plough apart...

 

[crystalman]

Pulling my plough is easy with a 10045-Even in permanent pasture that hasn't seen a plough in years and up a 30% gradient.I have got an A.R.M pick up hitch so had no assist ram fitted.I have had one custom made which helps.What I would like one day is a RH upper lift arm from a big 6 Cylinder crystal.Then I could have 2 assist rams.No worries then!
My plough modification should be easy when I do it.It will look just like the newer Huard and Kverneland ploughs with the bolt on rear furrows.
Been away from the PC for a while.We have dry weather so I have been rolling the grazing feilds and spreading fertilizer.If I go on our steepest bits of land I have to keep the sump overfull or the pressure gauge will drop to zero Not like the Netherlands at all!!

 

[Renze]

Yes, pretty different to Holland...

I have done 1/3 of the 1.3 hectare field tonight, in 2 hours. i drive in 1st gear and plough about 17 to 30 cm deep, to turn the sods as much as possible.
Before i started, i had to weld on the plough as one share tip was broken.. i welded a piece of a hay wagon blade on it, wear resistant metal... As long as i can keep it going with some mower blades and other pieces of waste metal, it is the cheapest way to plough...

I will post some pics in the weekend..