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trailer brakes

r1verside

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May 30, 2009
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riverside
Is it possibe to fit a hydraulic line to run hydraulic trailer brakes to a 5340 and if so, how is it done and where can i get necessary parts ?
 
I use a standard external outlet to brake trailers. Its totally safe when you make a habit of braking with the SCV instead of your foot, so in case of emergency you'll naturally grab the SCV handle... Dont know if its legal though. I only use a 10 ton slurry tank and a tipper 4 or 5 times a year, so not something i'm going to install a dedicated trailer brake valve for.
 
Hi

Your Zetor dealer should be able to supply the kit but be warned it isn't cheap. They are available for the Super range if they don't do one for your model, you should be able to adapt this to fit.

Mike
 
Mike,

I remember that they had a kit for 12 series. It was presented and available too i think. The problem was that my father didnt "need" it and when i tried to buy one later dealer couldnt deliver it.

The problem with super series kit is that you need constand oil flow for it. In earlier ur1 models you need to fit it on original external valve. And when you have brake valve connected, you can not use any other hydraulics :( Also you need "steal" preussure from brake circuit to valve pilot, least when you use "standard" brake valves. I have fitted Valtra brake valves to build hydr. trailer brakes to my zetor /ZTS. Zts has possibility install valve to its hydraulic circuit. Also my 7745 has more external valves (my own assembly), so it is possible to fit brake valve to that circuit.

But finding original kit for aftermounting UR1 series would be nice. It didnt need taking pilot preussure from brake circuit if i remember correct, so maybe it used the same system as air brakes.

BUT this is only what I REMEMBER. I dont have all hairs anymore, so it is possible i dont have all memories as correct anymore either ;)
 
Hi Markku

The super kit is piped direct from the hydraulic pump on the side of the engine. The trailer brake always gets priority over the other services. This will cause a "jump" on the remaining hydraulic services if they are used when braking, but is useable. Even the new Forterras jump a bit as it is the same circuit.
You can fit the same kit to a UR1 if you modify the pump plate so that the supply comes out externally first before it goes to the internal services.

Mike
 
:mad: I forgot totally that 40 series does allready have a pump on engine side. Not inside differential housing :)

But how you can do it 12 or 77 series? Is there change to modify the pump plate? That mean decent external hydraulics could be built too with that way? Least here i havent seen any solution like that....
 
Hi Markku

The pump plate has to be modified. I,ve never done one but from memory, you have to bung off the supply up into the tractor, then drill and tap the pump plate to 1/2" BSP or 22mm below the supply. You can use the supply for the external service and return it back into the pump plate.
I'm sure Dave P can give you better info as he had one a while ago.

Mike
 
Ok, i got the idea ;)

I thought there is modified pump plate you can buy....

I was considering doing it that way, when i installed some more external hydraulics to my 7745. I allso was thinking to steal flow from hitch cover, above differential housing.

But finally i decided to take flow from original external valve, and block the lever to its + position. That have been working ok for this long. I dont need so much 3 point hitch that a bit lowered raising speed does matter.
 
Yes we did have one on a 7245, but we had an after market front pump from Morris Corfield on the tractor and tapped into the pipe from the pump and used a bosch relay, which was not cheap and caused us a lot of trouble until we took it apart and lightly siliconed the 2 halves to stop water gettting in. after that the only problems we had were with a stainless steel covered flexy pipe that came from a slave cylinder to the relay.
 
The original pump plate has a bung on the front end, which delivers pressure:

There are two ways to work with it: Use it as a bypass, so you have to put the hydraulic lever to deliver pressure to an external remote which is blocked by a ball valve. When that end is blocked, the pressure goes to the brake valve. When using external remotes or 3pt lift, you need to block the bypass with another ball valve.

The other option would be to take pressure from this tap and block the line from the pump to the hitch cover. lead this line through the brake valve, and put it back into the 3pt lift cover to the point where the original oil line enters the tractors 3pt valves and remote valves.

Another option may be to buy a cheap italian belt driven gear pump and use that for an independent brake circuit.

But i prefer manually operated brakes controlled by the standard remote outlet: IT saves your tractors brakes and thus eliminates jackknifing, and it makes an incredible parking brake !!
 
Except law in finland says: Trailer brakes must be operated by the same pedal and parallel as tractor brakes.

Thought you dont have to care about that law, if you dont want to, but then your trailer total weight is allowed to be only 2 times the weight of tractor.
 

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