zetor 3011 or 4011

Hy.
I recentlly bought a Zetor tractor and i have a lot of trouble with him.
first of all i don't know what tipe is it. It's write on him that is 3011 but the engine have 4 pistons and look's like a 3011. for details i 'll put some pic in next days.

The real problems are with the hydraulics and gear shift.


First of all:
* Hydraulics... it dosen't works as it should be. It lift but answer hard to comands.. and dosen't keep the pressure, when turn off the tractor or pust the clutch it goes down. And one mor question. why is necessary that to work the hydraulics is need to work and the PTO (power snuff).
*i can't shift the gear from easy to hard . The little shifter is jammed.. really jammed.
* for what is the decompression button????
* when i don't push the throttle and is get a little bit accelerated, the engine is accelerated by himself.. a little bite like that : pac pac pac pac wrooommm pac pac pac and so on..instead to work pac pac pac pac pac ... .(don't laught of my expresion)

it would be great if someone have a manual in english... sorry for my bad english.

i wait your answer. Good day

Hello,

the 3011 is a 3 cylinder (i have one) and the 4011 is a 4 cylinder. So yours is a 4011.

The lift is probably because you have the little lever on the right side, half under the seat, with 3 settings P-M-D on the D position: Then it wants to transfer weight from the plough to the tractor. For normal operations, you need position control, the P setting.

The stuck lever of high and low gear range: I had the same thing on my 3011. I could get it into low range, but never get it out again. To get it out, i had to take a 17mm wrench and release the retainer bolt. (it is located in a row of 5 bolt heads on top of the transmission cover, in front of the two small levers of PTO and high/low gear range)
You need the one on the right. I cured this problem by putting a 1mm washer under the retainer bolt, (it has a built in spring with a little ball on the end, that "clicks" when you put it into gear) so the little ball has more free room to be pushed out of the slot when moving the shift fork.

The decompression lever is to start an engine when its really cold: In the 60's when these tractors were made, old types of oil stayed very thick in the winter. Modern multigrade oils have chemicals added so they stay thinner in cold weather. Anyways, with old fashioned oil and old fashioned batteries, it was hard to get the engine moving. With the decompression lever, you could crank the engine around untill the starter motor has speed, then release it so the engine is at full starting speed before the starter motor meets the resistance of the engine compression. when it is turned faster, its more likely to ignite the fuel.

The funny engine galloping is probably because there is no oil in the fuel pump: on the back of the fuel pump you can add oil. (just normal engine oil) When there is nothing in it, change the fuel pump oil after the engine is warm so the rust is drained off, then put on fresh oil.

Thanks a lot Renze.I solved the problem withe high and low gear range. I don't have yet time to change the oil and clean the oil pump,the filter but i'll. The problem with hydraulics is still persist because the little lever with the P M D position is working just in P position , in the other position it does nothing.(by the way what means P M D??)
Can u tell me also what quantity of oil i must put in the tractor?
Sorry if i disturbed you with my questions but it's my first tractor of this kind and i don't have any manual for it.

Have a good day.

When the 3pt lift control lever is in P positon (position-mixed-draft) and you still have these symptoms, check the oil level in the rear end. When you lift the 3pt by air pressure, it will quickly drop as soon as the pump stops putting air under the piston, as it will go right through.

I solved the problem with the engine....the "funny" way he works. I changed the fuel filtres with a new one and it work's ok now..Here's a pics with my zetor engine where u can observe the centrifugal oil filte: http://www.2shared.com/file/9807780/2625ca/Pics050.html and heres goes the question: is this filter better then the traditional oil filter? the problem with the hydraulics and PTO is next on the list..( i cannot find the plac where u can measure ar put the pressure oil for hydraulics, in the days they comme i must take to pieces all that part) http://www.2shared.com/file/9808026/4cc217c1/Pics051.html
Notice that i unscrewed the two screw that seems to be the place where u can put oil or measured it.. but nothig.

I disasembly the bottom of gearbox and hydraulics.i found out how they work: to work just the hydraulics i must put the high/low little lever in null position and put the tractor in a gear and it;s working.
the second lever has also 3 position :hydraulics only, null and mixed(hydra and PTO).
only problem left is that the hydraulics it dosen't stay.up.I repleced one of the rubber seal of the hydraulics piston (it was rubbish), but nothing changed...it seem like the distribution of hydra is not working as it should. when have time i 'll undo the distribution and see.. Untill then tx all for help .


Have a good day to all.

there are some pipe ends between the bottom pump plate and gearbox, as well as the 3pt lift upper cover and the gearbox, that have two rubber O rings.

I just bought the rubber seals and the o-ring for the hydraulic lift piston, but it's to cold outside to work at it. i hope that this will resolve the problem.


and one more question: the back end of zetor 4011 is the same of zetor 3011?? i mean from the engine to the end (the gearbox, the clutch, the distribution and so on?)

good day!

No its not, they had many the same parts but not all. the diff of a 4011 is heavier, its basic design is still used today. Many components of the 3011 diff found their way into the UR1 driven front axles.

On later models, the transmissions were the same in detail.