question Zetor 3340 rear hydraulic lift lever pin broke?

I was plowing for the first time yesterday and the long lift lever was super tight so I lubed it up and it got a little better but 2 rows later (I was only able to do 5 total!) something broke. It looks like the bottom hinge pin is still good but where ever it connects to appears to have sheared? It’s very hard to see in that very small space which has lots of levers and poles connecting lol.

I’m not even sure of the part names or what connects to what. Any help is appreciated.

Hey, Zeter!
The more-savy guys will probably get you a much better answer, but for now, in case it can help you a little bit, I have just recorded a very poor video, applying a zoom on the rear hydraulic's lever at work, while I change the position of the lever front and back.

Maybe it can help you figure out what could be missing, broken or even stuck again on your tractor's parts.

Cheers!


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3wifHf4Fb9U

There (arrow) has to be no oil !! - thats adjustable by srew on or unscrew the hex nut. Oil at the two little brake discs is not common, they have to be dry.

Here are better pictures. Yes whatever this was, a screw or something has sheared. I don;t even know where to start as it looks like it is a bolt that screws into a welded part and there are inches to work here, so tapping it to get the end out is just not possible. What a nightmare. Please tell me im wrong, lol.

How hard is it to change the whole plate part (that has the welded side) and what's it called?

I need to get this fixed ASAP so I can prep my field

jcataclism said:

Hey, Zeter!
The more-savy guys will probably get you a much better answer, but for now, in case it can help you a little bit, I have just recorded a very poor video, applying a zoom on the rear hydraulic's lever at work, while I change the position of the lever front and back.

Maybe it can help you figure out what could be missing, broken or even stuck again on your tractor's parts.

Cheers!


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3wifHf4Fb9U

Click to expand...

Thank you very much for taking the time to do that!

But I think you can only remove the shaft that you broke off and which is rusted when you have dismantled the entire upper hydraulic system.

So take out the seat, take out the rear floor panel, take out the lower rear window frame and then remove the lifting struts and then... remove the upper hydraulic cover.

Then you get to the wave.


The problem is - your Zetor has quite a bit of rust. The tractor can't do anything about it; it happens because you neglected to maintain the machine properly.

Joachim said:

But I think you can only remove the shaft that you broke off and which is rusted when you have dismantled the entire upper hydraulic system.

So take out the seat, take out the rear floor panel, take out the lower rear window frame and then remove the lifting struts and then... remove the upper hydraulic cover.

Then you get to the wave.


The problem is - your Zetor has quite a bit of rust. The tractor can't do anything about it; it happens because you neglected to maintain the machine properly.

Click to expand...

lol I didn’t do or not do anything so maybe chill with the judgement. This tractor is new to me.

And what are you even talking about, this thing is almost 30 years old and there’s barely any rust the only thing compromised was this bolt or pin. Of course it’s extremely complicated to change out which was what I was afraid of.

Thanks for the input.

Hi Zetor Beater,
I also am a new owner of a 1999 3340 and when I tried moving the lever back to raise the 3-point hitch,
it was so dirt rusted up that it must have been never been moved up past the half way position for many years.

I soaked it with B'LASTER PB Penetrant Pro oil and pushing the lever with my foot,
with working it back and forth it did cleaned up.
It now works properly,
but that part is not a help for you needing to fix your broken part.

Before I got it freed up I was seeing it was going to be a hard place to get to.
I was thinking, I needed to remove the fender if possible.
So I am very interested to know the best way to get at this linkage too.

The video and pictures are helpful
and the instructions: take out the seat,
take out the rear floor panel,
take out the lower rear window frame
and then remove the lifting struts
and then remove the upper hydraulic cover.

ZeterBeater said:

lol I didn’t do or not do anything so maybe chill with the judgement. This tractor is new to me.

And what are you even talking about, this thing is almost 30 years old and there’s barely any rust the only thing compromised was this bolt or pin. Of course it’s extremely complicated to change out which was what I was afraid of.

Thanks for the input.

Click to expand...

1. Please calm down - we all here have a Zetor tractor or more of them and most of us are not professionals. We want to have a friendly tone here and not sink to Facebook levels, OK?
2. Iam doesnt say the rust comes from you or your work.
3. Iam wrote you a short way instruction what you can do to fix it. I can write it more detailed, but I do it in my less free time and I dont do it for people with a rude tone.
4. Extra: Iam not a nativ englisch people, so please be considerate of any awkward wording. Thanks.

I come from a New England Mountain Farming Culture,
which as a child growing up you were not treated with much kindness (get that job done or you will get a beating).
You were expected to know everything to get the job done even if you had never done it before (learning the hard way).
So being spoken to harshly was normal, but you did know you were valued and loved.
I think of it as direct-talking, as to get to the point quickly so that you did not waste any time getting the job done.


Anyways, Maybe this will be a little help: