Zetor 3511 Advise please

Hi, I started a topic a little while back but can't find it now to continue. But anyway, we have brought a house which cam with the tractor, I'm new to this and the previous owner can't help me with things.

I have done a short video to help with asking questions so please watch and if possible can you advise.

https://youtu.be/gKnBcn1Vdos

my questions are:
1. Fuel tap on bottom of diesel tank in or out for on?
2. Cold start button is this it and how to use it?
3. Air intake has oil in it should this be there if so how much should be in there?
4. Oil level in engine is this too high?
5. Oil type what do other people use?
6. should I check anything else?
7. forgot to put on video but on the dashboard the guage on the left side is this an amp meter its marked AI it think but when I have engine running it doesn't show a reading?

Many thanks for any help and advise.

my questions are:
1. Fuel tap on bottom of diesel tank in or out for on?
2. Cold start button is this it and how to use it?
3. Air intake has oil in it should this be there if so how much should be in there?
4. Oil level in engine is this too high?
5. Oil type what do other people use?
6. should I check anything else?
7. forgot to put on video but on the dashboard the guage on the left side is this an amp meter its marked AI it think but when I have engine running it doesn't show a reading?

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I watched your video and my answers, 1. out, 2. that's not the cold start button in the video, the button is more to the left of the injector pump, you need the hand throttle open to the last first before you can press down the button before starting. 3. Yes there's oil in the air breather, throw out that stuff and put some engine oil into it, there's a mark level in the bowl. 4. Oil level in the engine is between the two lines when cold anything above the top line is too much and to the top of the dipstick is wwway too much, check water isn't getting in. 5. 15W40. 6. You should at buying a Lucas alternator instead of that old dynamo for charging the battery.7. The Amp meter needle should be bang in the middle and only moves when there a pull on the battery like if you have the headlights on and the back plough lights.

In the video you ask about the diesel pump and glass, the glass bowl should be cleaned so you can see the diesel filling inside and the tap on the top is indeed for priming the pump it unscrews and you pump it up and down but be sure to tighten it again afterwards. Correct that's the oil filler cap, but that cap used to be red to find it easy.

Many thanks for taking the time to reply it is extremely helpful and I now have a tractor which is running again, I've found a few things along the way which I need to sort but I guess its good to learn by finding problems.

Can I use the same engine oil for the air filter as the engine takes or does it not really matter alongs it is at the correct level?

Also you mentioned about changing the old dynamo for an alternator do you know if I can just swap it over or do I need to do some re wiring etc.

Many thanks again.

Can I use the same engine oil for the air filter as the engine takes or does it not really matter alongs it is at the correct level?
Also you mentioned about changing the old dynamo for an alternator do you know if I can just swap it over or do I need to do some re wiring etc.

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Yes same will do, just fill to the mark on the air filter base. I say the Lucas alternator will be the same wiring only might need a different bracket but would make a great job at keeping the battery charged.

Many thanks again.
I'm working my way through the problems with your help.
Need a bit of advice regarding the hydraulics and how the three point hitch works or at the moment I don't think it works. I will do some tests and a bit of research first.

In your video you are out with a topper, are you lifting it up off the ground at the headlands? So when you have the lift arms lifted up to the last, you need to pull back a handle that releases the pick up hitch. The hydraulics work with the inner handle on the lift control, all the way back will give you power in the coupling on the back, if you have the left lever between you legs in the correct setting.

So if your been topping and using the PTO, then you just need to select to a different notice to work the hydraulics
1.pump,2.pump + pto,3 neutral, 4 pto and remember to always lift the hand clutch to move the lever.

I found online for the original owners manual for the tractor in English but I think it misses out a few things.

The left lever between my legs yep got that and all the positions.

Middle lever same cluster of levers. I believe is for locking the back brakes individually, it seems to be jammed but don't think I will ever use it anyway. Believe it should move left to right

Right lever is for the Hi / lo ration gears.

I am not aware of a hand clutch!! but the manual talks about the left foot pedal being a two stage clutch which I can feel that when pto selected and in gear first lift from all the way down engages the PTO then second half engages the drive (forwards / backwards)

I think the hydraulics have a problem! I think the lever for raising and lowering the lift bars is under the seat and operated by my right hand?? It doesn't do anything when hydraulics are selected. There are two more levers closer to the wheel I think are ploughing adjustments.

There is a further lever under the seat on the hydraulic pump and maybe selects a single flex hose?? not sure.

I can do another video if it helps explain my question better.

I'm only using the tractor for mowing as we brought a very overgrown plot with a fair amout of land. However Once we are on top of things here I have ambitions to add a back hoe (pelle) to the tractor. I'm not convinved its the best idea but am still looking into it. also maybe a front lifter but not sure its possible on this tractor. Anyway things for the future.

Hi
You are corekt the 3511 dont have handopperated ptoclutch, you have two stages on the footpedal. Trepointlift is the lever furdest to the right second one is remote cuplings at the rear, closest to the seat is setings for the trepointlift P is posision used for carying impliments, D is draft mainly used for ploughing and M is miksed controll. The flaperlever under the seat controls the speed of hydros.

There are two more levers closer to the wheel I think are ploughing adjustments.

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The 2 levers close to the right wheel are for lift and the hydraulics. The one nearest the wheel works the lift . The second lever works the hydraulics all back for power in the hose coupling, there is a lever under the seat is for controlling the speed of the lift and will also lock the arms fully up.

Hi,
I had to leave the tractor alone for a while and get on with other things but I'm back to work on fixing it up again now.

So the problems start again.

I thought I should give it thorough service and started with removing the oil filters. They were so full of gunk they were un recognisable, anyway its taken several days to get the gauze disks looking good and clean again. I was carful not to get the first and second filters muddled up as I read a previous post about them being different sizes (different zetor model I think it was).
Now they are clean I can see there is a 1 or a 2 marked on each disk. The first filter has a total of 12 gauze disks of which 7 are marked 1 and 5 marked 2.
the second filter has a total of 11 gauze disks of which 4 are marked 1 and 7 marked 2.
I'm guessing something isn't right here.
Can anyone tell me how it should be please.
Many thanks Tony